Been flushing and flushing. I always drain the water while still hot and engine running and then turn it off… This way the water comes out under pressure. The water doesn’t change color. I have done this 6 times now. I would argue that if I let the car sit over night and I drain the water it would come out clear as the particles in the buckets settle over night and leave mostly clear water. I guess every bit I flush out is better than inside. I am just not sure how many times I have to do it for it to clear up. It is kind of a PIA.
That is my understanding. No resistor on crank. And resistance at run. Resistance being added to reduce oltage. In my view, not needed on elctronc gnition. Actualy, detrimental.
Original idea was back in point and condensor dsays. rotection for the points.
In old race days, we ditched the condensor and replaced the points just before the main event.
uduallly with an entiore distributor.
CHJ
I think you are good to go Max.
If you want to go one step further, install a coolant filter. Don’t forget to check it regularly though, especially at the beginning.
This really isn’t the best way of flushing, Max. Running the engine to circulate coolant through the radiator means the radiator acts as a filter and the flow speed is rather too low to dislodge much. Further flushing this way is pointless - you’re done…
Of course, without access to pressure water it is as good as it gets, but since you are doing thorough work - you should really take out the radiator, bring it to a place with pressure water and reverse flush it…
Reverse flushing, using water pressure is the best; remove thermostat housing and flush block from the lower radiator hose - and reverse flush the radiator the same manner. Then separately reverse flush the heater core with the water valve disconnected.
The higher pressure/water flow will more effectively
remove loose particles - though we have seen serious clogging that required more drastic methods…
My main concern is your radiator - but it may be OK as is…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Sounds like a great idea. I did not find any good solutions that were available here in EU… Also Looks like another 100$ project. Any DIY options? Is the patient going to live with rusty water?
Nahh … just find yourself that workshop where they let you flush the engine with a hose for a modest contribution to their coffee maker. Yes, chances are your radiator and the heater matrix may be rusty as well, but the dirt you describe rather seems to come from the engine - and with a garden hose and a gutter it may be a matter of ten minutes instead of umpteen flush cycles.
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
I have flushed the heater core, the engine and the radiator before I put the car back together so I am somewhat amazed that it still had that much in it. However I never had pressure water so it was just a regular garden hose. This sux.
No it doesn’t sux, the garden hose is actually better, you need maximum flow to flush out all the debris, not pressure.
As Aristides says, Max - a garden hose is just dandy…
A possible explanation; with the system empty and/or filled with plain water, surface rust inevitably forms and is washed out into the coolant. Filled with coolant containing corrosion inhibitors this does not happen…
The gist is that if the engine temps are as you describe; you have no(!) cooling issues - and no worries. Just fill up and drive, and don’t check coolant for contamination. Discoloration over time is normal, small suspended particles will circulate harmlessly. Just change coolant at specified intervals - and revisit the cooling system if you encounter cooling problems…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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I was feeling a bit down last night so I went to see the Jag almost midnight… You know the usual.
I had forgotten about the holidays and the stores are closed the next days so I went to the store with the Jag and got some food… Always nice altough completely unnecessary as I could have walked there in about 15 min. Anyway I felt like driving a bit since it was a nice clear night. So I figured I haven’t been on the highway since I did all that work on the car. I went down 2 exits and turned around. I really opened her up on the last couple miles. Kind of amazed about the performance in the upper RPM range. (Thermostat works great by the way, she was at 90-95 under full load. no overheating) I kind of wish this was a 5 speed. Boy I would be in trouble.
Getting back to the garage the car stalled on me 3 times in reverse getting back into the garage and the idle issues is back and worse than ever. I though I got rid of it since it has not done it since I changed the thermostat and coil. But then again I was only driving city and short distances.
I was still doing the flushing water routine. I think I am on flush 8 now and these couple highway miles turned the water darker than any other flush. I don’t really understand this but it is what it is. I am on distilled water now and going back to coolant tomorrow. Fed up with this Sh**
I have said it before and it is clear it has to do something with heat. When the engine is really hot I have this problem. I have never pushed the car as much as I did last night so she was fully warmed up. I cannot explain this. I have checked for air leaks multiple times. I have perfect fuel pressure. I have the entire ignition system new at this point and it is silky smooth the whole week. It feels like she is lean but as far as I understand the mixture is controlled by the ecu with feeler that checks the coolant. The coolant temp is at 90 in a couple minutes and stays there. So Mixture should be steady. Now obviously oil temp and the rest rise even after the 5 minutes. But does this change the needed mixture? I am again puzzled and we have talked about it a bunch. I don`t know what else to do.
It bothers me that I cant figure this out.
How about your fuel pump?
When my fuel pump was failing I have noticed that after long drives, and when the engine was quite hot, it was noisy and sounded like cavitating. The car still drove ok, but it could be the case.
Also, what did you do with the fuel pre-filters in the end?
No.
Only the ATS (if it has one) and the CTS control the mixture. I presume you have checked the resistance vs temp in all their range?
Another thing you can try is to richen the ECU a couple of clicks.
Makes sense, hi RPM, hi flow, things got stirred up more.
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I am ruling this out since the under the hood pressure gauge is still there and showing correct pressure at idle
I figured this since the pump is “direct drive” so at High RPM there is more pressure in the system.
I did this a long time ago and it was at boiling. Do not think I checked the whole range. But I mean it really only matters around 90c. Also both of my CTS were close to one another.
Stop that b… flushing, Max, and stop checking fluid colour. It’s a waste of time. It may mean that you have a leak, letting exhaust into the mixture. Which requires other methods to identify - like a compression test or prolonged leak test without interfering with the coolant.
The hotter the coolant the leaner the mixture - this is what the CTS tells the ECU. As the temp raise quickly toward 90 the thermostat opens and lets in cold coolant from the radiator, so the rise stops - and should stay there.
If the temp then continue to rise more or less - it indicates imperfect cooling. However, hard driving, or increased load, burns more petrol and creates more heat - it is not alarming that the temp then rise a bit…
When you then reach home and stop the car, the block is still very hot - and the temp will rise further, leaner mixture.
A simple explanation may be that the engine is adjusted too lean, which cause hot running. Another possibility is that ignition timing is too low - which also causes hot running as the fuel is not used efficiently. Ie, more petrol is burning for the same power output, creating more heat. Or that your thermostat is not fully opening…
I suggest you get an infrared thermometer to get better temp data than the gauge can give. You can then get reading at key points to better analyse cooling ‘choke points’. It’s a very valuable tools for cooling issues…
I’m not sure I fully understand; you say steady temps, and at the same time that the engine is HOT…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
You can do this on the V12 ECU, not sure about the inline six.
If you can, try it. Maybe from the Mass Air Flow Sensor?
The V12 has also a feedback monitor so you can see what the ECU is doing.
The best thing would be to measure the exhaust gasses when this is happening.
If lean it’s a fuel issue, if rich you have misfires.
CORRECTION. Sorry the coolant temp was and has always been steady! With the old thermostat at 80-85 with the new at 90-95. PERFECT! I meant hot in the sense that everything getting really hot under the hood if you push the car down the highway rather than tinkering down the city at 30-50kmh like I do in town… I have NO cooling issues. I just mean that after a real drive I seem to have a idle issue after a stroll down to the store I do not.
I can’t tell the difference. Yesterday it felt like it was “missfiring” but I am not really good at identifying either one at this time.
you can listen if you like…
Video
This would be rather complicated to arrange.
Hard to tell, but that sounds more like a popping exhaust (lean) rather than misfire.