[xj-s] 2:88 vs 3:31

The 3:31 rear gears were discontinued in '81 or '82 I believe. Why was
this? 2:88 final drive ratios have been in place for a long time. More
of a touring gear ratio I assume. Wanted to get list members opinions on
these. They both are interchangeable! Coventry West, among others, offers
rebuilt rear end differentials for about $700 USD. The upside is increased
performance off the start. 0-60 is really quick with the 3:31’s.

Some other enthusiasts have mentioned that changing the Torque converter
from the stock 13" to a custom 9.5" is simple physics. The change is
actually more noticeable doing this than the rear end change. Delivers the
HP through the tranny to the rear gears much better. Does anyone have any
comment on this?

Thanks,
David Kowal

In a message dated 2/28/99 12:57:13 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dkowal@excelonline.com writes:

<< The 3:31 rear gears were discontinued in '81 or '82 I believe. Why was
this? 2:88 final drive ratios have been in place for a long time. More
of a touring gear ratio I assume. Wanted to get list members opinions on
these. They both are interchangeable! Coventry West, among others, offers
rebuilt rear end differentials for about $700 USD. The upside is increased
performance off the start. 0-60 is really quick with the 3:31’s. >>

You may be interested to know that a computer program I have is designed to
allow the user to vary parameters on a car, and determine the impact on
various performance measurements, like 0-60 time as a function of rear-end
ratio.

Here’s what the computer indicates for an 90 XJS coupe - US model with 262bhp
SAE net:

Rear end 0-60 time

2.88 7.51sec
3.07 7.51
3.31 7.48
3.54 7.39

Don’t pay attention to the absolute times, rather the deltas between times is
more important. As you can see, there really is no benefit to 0-60 time in
changing rear end ratios, but this does not mean that your rolling performance
won’t be positively impacted by changing to a higher ratio. By the way,
optimum 0-60 time is acheived with a ratio of 2.50, believe it or not (6.9
seconds). But I wouldn’t want to have this ratio for driving around.

Steve - 89 conv’t/93 XJRS coupe

At 12:03 28/02/1999, Steve wrote:

You may be interested to know that a computer program I have is
designed to

allow the user to vary parameters on a car, and determine the impact on
various performance measurements, like 0-60 time as a function of rear-end
ratio.

Here’s what the computer indicates for an 90 XJS coupe - US model with 262bhp
SAE net:

Rear end 0-60 time

2.88 7.51sec
3.07 7.51
3.31 7.48
3.54 7.39
[…] By the way,
optimum 0-60 time is acheived with a ratio of 2.50, believe it or not (6.9
seconds). But I wouldn’t want to have this ratio for driving around.

What gear change points did you enter? This has a very large influence on
0-60 times. In my own testing, I have found the best times with a manual
1-2 change at 6,000 rpm (7.8 seconds with my 1977 XJC). With the 3.1 rear
end (which I have), this change point comes just under 55 mph. I would
expect a 2.88 rear end to produce a better 0-60 time because it would let
you hold the car in 1st and avoid losing time on the wheel spin that comes
with the gear change.

  • Jan
    The Gum Tree Garage, where oil and beer mix just fine…
    Visit the Gum Tree Garage at www.zip.com.au/~wickers

By the way,
optimum 0-60 time is acheived with a ratio of 2.50, believe it or not (6.9
seconds). But I wouldn’t want to have this ratio for driving around.

Forgive my ignorance, but… why not?

Jason Korke.

In a message dated 3/1/99 2:36:52 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jurgen@alphalink.com.au writes:

<< > By the way,

optimum 0-60 time is acheived with a ratio of 2.50, believe it or not (6.9
seconds). But I wouldn’t want to have this ratio for driving around.

Forgive my ignorance, but… why not?

Jason Korke. >>

OK, here’s why:

			mph

Ratio 30-50 40-60 50-70 60-80 0-60
time in seconds
2.50 2.7 3.0 4.5 5.5 6.9
2.88 2.5 3.7 4.5 4.5 7.5
3.07 2.5 3.8 4.4 4.5 7.5
3.31 3.0 3.8 3.7 5.0 7.5
3.54 3.0 3.7 3.8 5.1 7.4

For me, the best ratios overall are 2.88 and 3.07. But the best ratio for you
depends on your priorities regarding performance. As they say, “Yah pays your
money and yah takes your choice”.

Steve - 89 conv’t/93 XJRS coupe

I wonder (je me demande ?) ?

I’ve a 1980 Digital-P, and I read that the mpg improvement was dramatic with the
HE for low speed. If you drive wildly the result is not so different.

Ok the head is very different : thanks for the swiss help of May !

But, at the same time the dif. pass from 3:31 to 2:88 --> that means the engine
run slower for the same speed.
So it’s good for fuel improvement !

My suspicion are :
If one put a 2:88 to a pre-HE (digital P) the mpg should not be so bad (except
for idle speed )!
If, then, you want to drive wildly it’s possible to change the speed manually
(1-2-D) !

Who knows one who did such things ?

Pascal R. Doxarve
Geneva/Switzerland

For my bad mileage-score see http://www.suisu.com/xjs
During the period the D drive did not works properly…
and now my speedo is broken !
;^)
But I still love my blue-night-cat !

In a message dated 3/1/99 4:52:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, wickers@zip.com.au
writes:

<< What gear change points did you enter? This has a very large influence on
0-60 times. In my own testing, I have found the best times with a manual
1-2 change at 6,000 rpm (7.8 seconds with my 1977 XJC). With the 3.1 rear
end (which I have), this change point comes just under 55 mph. I would
expect a 2.88 rear end to produce a better 0-60 time because it would let
you hold the car in 1st and avoid losing time on the wheel spin that comes
with the gear change. >>

The change points for the performance comparison are optimzed (by the program)
to produce the quickest 0-60 time, which may or may not require a shift from
1st to 2nd. As it turns out, the program shifts up between 6010 and 6080 rpm,
depending on the rear end ratio. For all the ratios from 3.07 to 3.54, this
means upshifting to 2nd between 44 and 54mph, while the theoretical 2.50 ratio
shifts up at 63 mph. Of course, this explains the better time from 0-60
because a time wasting shift is thereby avoided. The computer indicates a car
with a 3.07 rear end ratio should be shifted at 6050 rpm @ 51 mph - same as
your empirical testing, pretty good, eh?

Steve - 89 conv’t/93 XJRS coupe

Dear Listers:

OK, if I follow so of the logic of some of you, then this gear change thing
has
got me really confused. A 2.88 would mean a higher ratio, and less RPMs at
speed, therefore aiding in cruising fuel economy. But the downside is
acceleration should get worse because the engine has to put more torque on
the driveshaft to make it turn. Much like starting out pedeling on a 10-speed
bike in a high gear. You go, but you don’t “accelerate” as quickly as with a
lower gear.

And yes, I agree to a point about the idea of saving a gear shift before
hitting 60. But then again, using that logic, why not start “pedeling” in 6th
pr 7th gear because eventually you’ll get up to a speed where the gear makes
sense? Reason: its too hard to accelerate in a higher gear. Having raced
bicycles many years ago, this is true.

Every hot rodder I’ve ever scraped knuckles with generally wants to lower
the
rear-end ratio (within reason of course and the ratios in the gearbox), not
raise it. And no offense intended to Steve, just because a computer says its
so, doesn’t make it so (I’m a software engineer).

Bottom line on the Jaguar XJ-S V-12…*this thing is geared WAY TOO HIGH in
first gear
and that is one reason why an STS can blow your doors off at a
stoplight and why Grand Turismo Jaguar sells a 6-speed tranny that will reduce
your 0-60 time by over 1.5 seconds. Its because of lower gearing in the
lowest
gears. Ideally, you want to lower the actual first gear(s) in the
transmission, so as not to lose your top end, but a ratio is a ratio. Whatever
works out as the final drive ratio will determine how much punch you get
out of
the hole.

Wayne Estrada
1989 XJ-S Convertible (Dorchester Grey)
1989 Vanden Plas Sedan (Alpine Green)
Richmond VA, USA
Please Visit my Jaguar Site at: www.u3training.com/jaguar

[first try to post seems to have failed on Sunday]

Hi all,

This weekend the service manager at my usual

“garage” is picking up a 3.54 diff for my 1990 coupe.
Our anticipation has been that the 3.54 should give
approx a 22% increase in torque over the std 2.88.
Shouldn’t that translate into a much greater delta
in 0-60 times?

Also, the 7.51 sec number for the 2.88 ratio

doesn’t sound realistic. My car takes more than that
to get to 60, despite an engine in excellent condition
and AJ6 mods in place. What are other folks getting
on their cars?

Finally, although I've read Kirby's book for

the assorted modifications I’ve made to the car, I
would sure appreciate the list’s opinion on whether
the investment in a 3.54 rear end ratio is worth it
relative to alternate uses for the money, such as
putting it towards a 5 or 6-speed manual conversion.
I’m planning to have the stick-shift conversion done
too at some point but thought that for much less money
I might pick up a significant torque/responsiveness
payoff by going to the 3.54 ratio. According to the
numbers below I’d be wasting money to proceed with
the current plan.


You may be interested to know that a computer program I have is designed to
allow the user to vary parameters on a car, and determine the impact on
various performance measurements, like 0-60 time as a function of rear-end
ratio.

Here’s what the computer indicates for an 90 XJS coupe - US model with 262bhp
SAE net:

Rear end 0-60 time

2.88 7.51sec
3.07 7.51
3.31 7.48
3.54 7.39

Don’t pay attention to the absolute times, rather the deltas between times is
more important. As you can see, there really is no benefit to 0-60 time in
changing rear end ratios, but this does not mean that your rolling
performanceOn a different subject, I spoke to Mr. Harvey-Bailey of Harvey-Bailey Engineering about further improvements to the car’s handling (already have his uprated front antisway bar and add-on rear antisway bar.) He didn’t think that a stiffer spring was warranted for the rear but that for the V12 the front springs might be marginal as installed. So I’m considering getting stiffer front springs from him. Any comments? The car still has a fair amount of body lean on curves despite new Koni shocks at stiffest setting and the above mods. Thx, Inder At 12:03 PM 2/28/99 EST, XJRSOwners@aol.com wrote:
won’t be positively impacted by changing to a higher ratio. By the way,
optimum 0-60 time is acheived with a ratio of 2.50, believe it or not (6.9
seconds). But I wouldn’t want to have this ratio for driving around.

Steve - 89 conv’t/93 XJRS coupe

At 09:53 pm 01/03/99 -0800, Harinder J. Singh wrote:

This weekend the service manager at my usual
“garage” is picking up a 3.54 diff for my 1990 coupe.
Our anticipation has been that the 3.54 should give
approx a 22% increase in torque over the std 2.88.

Yes, if you have a manual transmission and stay in first gear all the way.

Once the engine gets into its power band in first gear, there is no real
advantage in any ratio. The torque converter also helps keep the engine in
its power band.

The 2.88 was I think used with the HE to improve fuel economy, but may also
be partly because the HE engine does not breath as well as the pre-HE, so
there is more reason for keeping the revs down.

regards,

Mike Morrin

Thanks for responding, Mike. Been using the
internet for over fifteen years but it still blows
my mind that I can type out a message in California
and, in less time than it takes to bring a beverage
from the kitchen, someone in New Zealand has replied
to my note!

Your comments made me realize that perhaps I

should have phrased my question differently, since
my driving is rarely to redline or max performance
upshift in a 0-60 sprint.

What matters more to me is general responsiveness

of the car when I step on the accelerator pedal. I
usually let it shift up well below the max rpm for the
lower gear but up to the point that I let up for the
upshift, and then beyond it, I like to feel the car’s
acceleration.

Would you think the ***acceleration*** of the

car in a given gear would be perceptually different
with a higher ratio diff (eg 3.54 instead of 2.88)
for similar pattern of throttle use (engine rpm?)

Best regards,

	Inder

[Mike’s response, posted with permission. BTW, I do have the
AJ6 mods suggested in this response. Looking to do better.]

At 10:28 pm 01/03/99 -0800, you wrote:

Thanks for responding, Mike. Been using the
internet for over fifteen years but it still blows
my mind that I can type out a message in California
and, in less time than it takes to bring a beverage
from the kitchen, someone in New Zealand has replied
to my note!

Yes, but it ca be frustrating when you have a simple question, and no-one
responds.

Your comments made me realize that perhaps I
should have phrased my question differently, since
my driving is rarely to redline or max performance
upshift in a 0-60 sprint.

What matters more to me is general responsiveness
of the car when I step on the accelerator pedal. I
usually let it shift up well below the max rpm for
the lower gear but up to the point that I let up for
upshift, and then beyond it, I like to feel the car’s
acceleration.

Would you think the acceleration of the
car in a given gear would be perceptually different
with a higher ratio diff (eg 3.54 instead of 2.88)
for similar pattern of throttle use (engine rpm?)

I don’t have much practical experience in this sort of thing, but I think
that most of the improvement would be in the 0-20 MPH range. For
responsiveness above this speed, you probably get better value from the AJ6
mods or similar.

I am building a V12 e-type at present, and it will have a 5.3 litre HE
engine and a 3.31 diff. It will also be quite a lot lighter than an XJ-S.
I will probably do some bolt-on tuning to that engine, including engine
management and tuned intake manifolds. It will take a while to get to that
stage though.

In a message dated 3/1/99 10:42:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wayne@richmond.net writes:

<< Grand Turismo Jaguar sells a 6-speed tranny that will reduce
your 0-60 time by over 1.5 seconds. Its because of lower gearing in the
lowest
gears. >>

Regarding the comment above:

I am sure the 6-speed is quicker to 60 than the 3-speed auto, but not because
of the reason stated above. There are 2 primary reasons for its better 0-60
performance. Number 1, a manual transmission transmits more power to the
wheels than does an automatic tranny (it has lower losses). And 2, since it
is close-ratio, it can pack more gears into the 0-60 sprint (3 vs 2) so that
the total area under the engine power vs road speed curve is greater.

As an example of what I mean by this…quickest acceleration would be achieved
by a car equipped with an infinitely variable transmission keeping the engine
at its power peak at all times. This would always assure that the power at
the rear wheels was maximized, producing the greatest excess torque to
accelerate the car. In my example, the area under the engine power vs road
speed curve (a straight horizontal line at 262 hp, extending from 0 mph to 60
mph) would be a nice large rectangle - the largest possible area under the
‘curve’. Since we don’t have an infinitely variable tranny, the next best
thing is more gears as in a close ratio 6-speed. If you plot engine power vs
road speed for each of the gears on the same graph paper, it is very obvious
that the ‘area under the curve’ for 3 speeds is much greater than the area
under the curve for 2 speeds (for the 0 to 60 mph range). This is why the
6-speed is so much quicker than the 3-speed from 0-60mph, not because of its
lower ratios.

A perfect example of this is the comparison of the XJ-S with 3-speed auto vs
4-speed auto. The 1st three gears are the same in both trannies, the only
difference being the rear end ratio, the 3-speed having a 2.88 and the 4-speed
a 3.54. This means that the 4-speed car has significantly higher overall
ratios in the 1st three gears than the 3-speed car. So presumably it will
accelerate a lot faster because of the ‘lower’ gearing, right? Wrong. The
3.54 car accelerates to 60 in 7.3 seconds, 0.2 seconds faster than the 2.88
car (both cars use only 1st gear and portions of 2nd gear in the process).
Essentially, the area under the power vs speed curves is the same, regardless
of rear end ratio. If the rear end ratio was so high (6.0) that the 4-speed
car used 3 gears in getting to 60 mph, then it would be faster because of the
increased area under the power vs speed curves (0-60 mph in 7.0 seconds). Of
course the top speed of the car would only be 95mph - totally impractical. So
more gears (and close ratio) is the way to go.

This explains why 0-60 times are essentially independent of rear end ratios
within a reasonable (and practical) range.

Regarding the acceleration times I posted previously:

OK, I obviously have started a controversy regarding the common wisdom of
going to a higher rear end ratio, and the seat-of-the-pants improvement in
acceleration as a result. I will try to explain the data I have posted and
why it doesn’t contradict this seat-of-the-pants feel that a higher ratio is
quicker (which it is).

First, the data for in-range acceleration times is based on allowing the
transmission to kickdown, if it can. So, for a 3.54 car, at a given road
speed, it may not be possible to change down to the next lower gear when
giving the car the boot, while the car with a 2.88 may change down a gear,
thereby raising the engine’s rpm to a higher speed and a potentially higher
power. In this case the 2.88 car will accelerate faster than the 3.54 car
stuck in a higher gear. This example illustrates why the data I posted is
valid, and does not contradict the feeling of snappier response when the
throttle is depressed on a car with a higher rear end ratio.

The following data is single-gear acceleration times for all three gears and
selected speed ranges (meaning the transmission is NOT allowed to shift into
the next lower gear). Note that this data confirms what everyone knows, a
higher rear end ratio is snappier, as long as you can stay in one gear over
the speed range of interest. So for most drivers, the lower rear end gearing
will provide a lot of punch, and can be very worthwhile. However, this does
not translate to better 0-60 times, which was the original statement to which
I responded.

So, the moral of the story here is that if you are looking to improve your
0-60mph time, rear end gearing really won’t get you very much improvement.
But if you really are looking just for snappier part-throttle response, then a
rear end change is just the ticket.

I hope this clarifies things regarding the previously posted data, and its
seeming inconsistency with the ‘real world’ seat-of-the-pants feel about rear
end gearing.

Steve - 89 conv’t/93 XJRS

1st Gear
RER 5-20mph 20-40mph
2.50 2.40 2.60
2.88 2.15 2.35
3.07 2.00 2.00
3.31 2.00 2.00
3.54 1.75 1.95

2nd Gear
RER 20-40mph 40-60mph
2.50 4.60 4.78
2.88 4.06 4.07
3.07 3.75 3.75
3.31 3.44 3.59
3.54 3.12 3.44

3rd Gear
RER 40-60mph 60-80mph
2.50 7.06 7.88
2.88 6.12 6.47
3.07 5.65 5.99
3.31 5.18 5.06
3.54 4.70 5.30

Whether it is a worthwhile change depends on what you want out of your
car. Wayne’s comments are quite accurate - a lower (numerically higher)
diff ratio will give you more acceleration off the mark, coupled with
more revs at the same speed in top gear (ie 70mph in top may be 2500
instead of 2200 rpm or whatever). If most of your driving is done under
90-100 mph then you’ll probably be pretty happy with the performance
improvement. If you do heaps of highway driving you may not be happy
with the increase in fuel consumption.

BTW The problem with the “ideal” diff for 0-60mph times being a 2.50 is
quite possibly true - by avoiding the gear change, but it would be a
rather slow car off the mark 0-30… the other thought is you may want
to try plugging a still yet higher diff ratio (say 4.5:1) in you may
find that an early change from 1st to 2nd may get you a better time yet
again with the tall 2nd gear.

Empirically if you want the best 0-60 go to a higher diff (in the mid
4s) and increase the stall speed on your tranny so you’re launching with
3 grand on the dial not 1500, hence a change to second at very low
actual road speed and again basically one gear for the vast majority of
the run. Careful control of wheel spin is optimal for best times (not
enough and you won’t launch fast enough, too little and you’re not on
the knife edge of optimal traction (which occurs at 5-10% slip contrary
to popular belief see http://www.racelogic.co.uk/techtrac.htm for more
details)

If you build a car for optimal 0-60 you’re simply building a drag car
that only has to run a 100 yards instead of 400, drag cars make really
crappy road cars.

John> Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 21:53:23 -0800

From: “Harinder J. Singh” singh@alumni.stanford.org
Subject: Re: [xj-s] 2:88 vs 3:31

[first try to post seems to have failed on Sunday]

Hi all,

    This weekend the service manager at my usual

“garage” is picking up a 3.54 diff for my 1990 coupe.
Our anticipation has been that the 3.54 should give
approx a 22% increase in torque over the std 2.88.
Shouldn’t that translate into a much greater delta
in 0-60 times?

    Also, the 7.51 sec number for the 2.88 ratio

doesn’t sound realistic. My car takes more than that
to get to 60, despite an engine in excellent condition
and AJ6 mods in place. What are other folks getting
on their cars?

    Finally, although I've read Kirby's book for

the assorted modifications I’ve made to the car, I
would sure appreciate the list’s opinion on whether
the investment in a 3.54 rear end ratio is worth it
relative to alternate uses for the money, such as
putting it towards a 5 or 6-speed manual conversion.
I’m planning to have the stick-shift conversion done
too at some point but thought that for much less money
I might pick up a significant torque/responsiveness
payoff by going to the 3.54 ratio. According to the
numbers below I’d be wasting money to proceed with
the current plan.

    On a different subject, I spoke to Mr. Harvey-Bailey

of Harvey-Bailey Engineering about further improvements
to the car’s handling (already have his uprated front
antisway bar and add-on rear antisway bar.) He didn’t
think that a stiffer spring was warranted for the rear
but that for the V12 the front springs might be marginal
as installed. So I’m considering getting stiffer front
springs from him. Any comments? The car still has a fair
amount of body lean on curves despite new Koni shocks at
stiffest setting and the above mods.

    Thx,

            Inder


This mail is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and
grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to
be considered flaws or defects.

At 09:35 AM 3/3/99 +1100, John Littler wrote:

Whether it is a worthwhile change depends on what you want out of your
car. Wayne’s comments are quite accurate - a lower (numerically higher)
diff ratio will give you more acceleration off the mark,
If you build a car for optimal 0-60 you’re simply building a drag car
that only has to run a 100 yards instead of 400, drag cars make really
crappy road cars.

Thanks John. Everything with cars is a compromise. If you want ultimate
handling, you get poor ride, ultimate acceleration, poor economy. Despite the
lengthy threatises we’ve heard on the subject, it still gets down to too tall
gearing for the XJ-S and high weight. For a high performance V-12 engined
car,
it is slow off the line (to our Ozzie friends…an STS is a four door Cadillac
model that is the highest HP front wheel drive car in the world). Most
Acuras,
BMWs, and high end Mercedes beat the XJ-S in normal driving conditions even
with automatic transmissions
so there goes the Torque Converter argument.
Even hopped up Toyota Celicas and Honda CRXs are “faster”. Yes, I’ll take my
modified XJ-S against anybody from 60MPH and up, but that is not the real
world–especially in the USA.

My conclusion (or is this the end to the thread?!? :slight_smile: is that lower gearing
can only help acceleration, but reduce fuel economy. That is why the GM T700
4-speed from John’s Cars or Chad Bolles makes sense to me. You have faster
acceleration and lower top speed RPMs.

“World Peace Through British Cars”

Wayne Estrada
1989 XJ-S Convertible (Dorchester Grey)
1989 Vanden Plas Sedan (Alpine Green)
Richmond VA, USA
Please Visit my Jaguar Site at: www.u3training.com/jaguar

Listers,
Can someone with a late model 6.0 litre / 4 speed auto indicate what their
fuel consumption is given the additional (higher) ratio - is that negated by
the larger engine size?
Chris-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Estrada [mailto:wayne@richmond.net]
Sent: Wednesday, 3 March 1999 10:34
To: xj-s@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xj-s] 2:88 vs 3:31

At 09:35 AM 3/3/99 +1100, John Littler wrote:

Whether it is a worthwhile change depends on what you want out of your
car. Wayne’s comments are quite accurate - a lower (numerically higher)
diff ratio will give you more acceleration off the mark,
If you build a car for optimal 0-60 you’re simply building a drag car
that only has to run a 100 yards instead of 400, drag cars make really
crappy road cars.

Thanks John. Everything with cars is a compromise. If you want ultimate
handling, you get poor ride, ultimate acceleration, poor economy. Despite
the
lengthy threatises we’ve heard on the subject, it still gets down to too
tall
gearing for the XJ-S and high weight. For a high performance V-12 engined
car,
it is slow off the line (to our Ozzie friends…an STS is a four door
Cadillac
model that is the highest HP front wheel drive car in the world). Most
Acuras,
BMWs, and high end Mercedes beat the XJ-S in normal driving conditions even
with automatic transmissions
so there goes the Torque Converter argument.
Even hopped up Toyota Celicas and Honda CRXs are “faster”. Yes, I’ll take
my
modified XJ-S against anybody from 60MPH and up, but that is not the real
world–especially in the USA.

My conclusion (or is this the end to the thread?!? :slight_smile: is that lower gearing
can only help acceleration, but reduce fuel economy. That is why the GM
T700
4-speed from John’s Cars or Chad Bolles makes sense to me. You have faster
acceleration and lower top speed RPMs.

“World Peace Through British Cars”

Wayne Estrada
1989 XJ-S Convertible (Dorchester Grey)
1989 Vanden Plas Sedan (Alpine Green)
Richmond VA, USA
Please Visit my Jaguar Site at: www.u3training.com/jaguar

For those interested :

My stock '95 4-speed A/T, V-12 Coupe has the 6.0L engine and the stock
3.54 gears. She gets a solid 12 MPG around town and 14-16 MPG on the
highway (running downhill with a tailwind). Very thirsty cars. At least
Jaguar had the sense to equip the car with a 24 gallon fuel tank !

I have timed her 0-60 time with hard street tires at between 6.6 to 6.7
seconds (A/T set in Sport Mode to raise the shift points). The '95 XJS
brochure shows an average 0-60 time of 6.8 seconds quoted. This car also
came with a high stall converter (per brochure) though I do not know the
RPM listed, just that it is higher on this year and engine combination
than in previous years.

regards,
Bill

1995 XJS V-12 6.0 Coupe (Black/Cream)
1998 BMW 528ia Sport (Triple Black)