[xj-s] Alignment problem after p/s rack changeout

Hello All…
I am in the final stages of bringing my 85 XJ-S back to life. I
just took the car to have the front end aligned after my rack
changout and they tell me that something is wrong. If they center
the rack, one tierod is all the way in and the other is almost all
the way out and the steering wheel can not be centered perfectly.
If I remember correctly, the steering column can only go on one way
because of the pinch bolt.Could I be off a full turn? Anyone have
any ideas?–
Jerry
Erie Pa, United States
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In a message dated 4/4/2006 10:26:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time, “xmeter” xmeter@aol.com writes:

just took the car to have the front end aligned after my rack
changout and they tell me that something is wrong. If they center
the rack, one tierod is all the way in and the other is almost all
the way out and the steering wheel can not be centered perfectly.
If I remember correctly, the steering column can only go on one way
because of the pinch bolt.

Hi Jerry:

There are two issues in “centering” upon installation of a new rack:

(1) Centering the rack, so that a full lock left turn is the same as a full lock right turn, or so that your turning circle will be the same in both full lock positions. That centering is done via the rack. If you/your shop don’t know about that let me know and I’ll send a copy of the Service Manual page.

(2) Centering the steering wheel so that it is straight when going straight. Since the two pinch bolts (one at the pinion gear and one between the upper & lower columns) are notched to only allow assembly in one position, you must remove the steering wheel from the upper column to center it.

George Balthrop, Clifton, VA USA
85 & 89 XJ-S Coupes; 89 XJ40 VDP

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In reply to a message from xmeter sent Tue 4 Apr 2006:

Hi Jerry, With the steering column pinch bolt detached, remove the
grease fitting on the rack. Using a small round pin or rod (a 1/8
inch welding rod works) move the rack until you feel the rod go
into a detent. With the rod in place attach the pinch bolt. Double
check that the detent is still where you thought you left it. And
yes the pinch bolt will only go on one way properly, as there is a
groove in the shaft for the bolt. Once installed you can easily
center the steering wheel. You may have to recenter the steering
wheel a little after your alignment.
Getting the pinch bolt on can be done without removing anything as
the manual suggests. Good luck.–
The original message included these comments:

changout and they tell me that something is wrong. If they center
the rack, one tierod is all the way in and the other is almost all
the way out and the steering wheel can not be centered perfectly.
If I remember correctly, the steering column can only go on one way
Jerry


1987 XJS Coupe
Fulshear/Texas, United States
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In reply to a message from xmeter sent Tue 4 Apr 2006:

Thanks for the replies here and through e-mail. I forwarded all the
info that I received to the alignment shop and all is now well. The
car is back in my garage for me to go back to work on this weekend.
This forum is an valuable tool for sure.–
Jerry
Erie Pa, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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Don Franke wrote:

With the steering column pinch bolt detached, remove the
grease fitting on the rack. Using a small round pin or rod (a 1/8 inch
welding rod works) move the rack until you feel the rod go into a
detent. With the rod in place attach the pinch bolt. Double check that
the detent is still where you thought you left it. And yes the pinch
bolt will only go on one way properly, as there is a groove in the
shaft for the bolt. Once installed you can easily center the steering
wheel. You may have to recenter the steering wheel a little after your
alignment.

No, you may NOT. The procedure is correct, you have centered the
wheel. If it’s not centered after the alignment, they did the
alignment wrong. You will need to adjust tie rod ends (one longer,
one shorter by equal amounts) to correct.

– Kirbert

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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Wed 5 Apr 2006:

Actually, even after the rack is centered by the above method, it
is still quite possible to have the steering wheel off, possibly by
a large amount.It all depends on how careful the rebuilder of the
rack was. The pinion gear could be installed in any position
consistent with the gears meshing. This means that the notch could
be located anywhere in the circle. The connection between the upper
and lower steering columns is made to facilitate fixing this
problem. The ‘‘notch’’ on the lower connection of the upper column
(located in the footwell at the top u joint ) is in fact a groove,
so the upper column can be aligned as required. The upper column
should, in fact, be centered by this method, avoiding mislocating
the turn signal cancellation device, and making the steering lock
work as designed.–
the Pro from Dover
washington d.c., United States
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In a message dated 4/6/2006 9:50:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, “the Pro from Dover” trwus@aol.com writes:

The connection between the upper
and lower steering columns is made to facilitate fixing this
problem. The ‘‘notch’’ on the lower connection of the upper column
(located in the footwell at the top u joint ) is in fact a groove,
so the upper column can be aligned as required. The upper column
should, in fact, be centered by this method, avoiding mislocating
the turn signal cancellation device, and making the steering lock
work as designed.

Hi Jesse:

Thanks for the clarification on the “groove vs. notch” on the joint between upper & lower columns. I had also forgotten the effect upon turn signal cancellation & steering wheel lock position.

George Balthrop, Clifton, VA USA
85 & 89 XJ-S Coupes; 89 XJ40 VDP

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Pro from Dover wrote:

Actually, even after the rack is centered by the above method, it is
still quite possible to have the steering wheel off, possibly by a
large amount.It all depends on how careful the rebuilder of the rack
was. The pinion gear could be installed in any position consistent
with the gears meshing. This means that the notch could be located
anywhere in the circle. The connection between the upper and lower
steering columns is made to facilitate fixing this problem. The
‘‘notch’’ on the lower connection of the upper column (located in the
footwell at the top u joint ) is in fact a groove, so the upper column
can be aligned as required. The upper column should, in fact, be
centered by this method, avoiding mislocating the turn signal
cancellation device, and making the steering lock work as designed.

Entirely wrong. The rack is centered using a dowel stuck into the
rack itself. THIS IS THE CENTER, it doesn’t matter how everything
else lines up. If you have positioned the steering wheel to aim
straight ahead by this method, it will not require readjusting, and
readjusting it would result in it being wrong.

– Kirbert

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GBalthropXJS@aol.com wrote:

I think if you re-read Jesse’s post, you will see that he is saying
the pinion shaft may be installed at any position relative to the
rack, so that centering the rack does NOT mean that the pinion shaft
and its notch will be in a particular position, UNLESS the rebuilder
has correctly positioned the pinion relative to the rack shaft.

Perhaps. But this does not call for readjusting the steering wheel
alignment, which is what the issue was. The centering of the rack is
done when the dowel is centered in the rack, period. If the turn
signal canceller doesn’t line up right, that’s a separate issue.

On some cars, the turn signal is cancelled by the steering wheel
itself precisely to avert such issues. If you have centered the rack
and aligned the wheel, the turn signal will cancel when it’s supposed
to. I don’t recall if the Jaguar steering column works this way, but
I seem to recall it does not, you’ve gotta do more fiddling if the
turn signal cancellation isn’t correct.

– Kirbert

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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Thu 6 Apr 2006:

NO NO NO and NO again. You are missing part of the picture. The
rack of the rack and pinion , ie the long ‘‘bar’’ that connects to
the tie rod assenblies on both sides, has a center. That center is
located by inserting a pin as described above. The pinion gear that
connects to the steering column , is just that, a gear. The pinion
gear has a notch machined in 1 place . The pinion gear can be
meshed with the rack in as many places as there are teeth on the
gear. Only 1 place will put the notch in the correct place relative
to the steering column. If all were perfect in the world, the
rebuilders of the racks would insert the pinion with the correct
orientation. The fact is, they don’t. Since you can only connect
the rack and the lower column in one place, the factory built in a
way to correct the resulting misalignment. I have changed hundreds
of these racks, and almost without exception , they required re -
centering the column when the rack was installed. I quote from the
Factory manual, section 57 13’‘If a replacement rack unit is to be
fitted it may be necessary to detach the lower column at the
universal joint to obtain the correct centralization’’–
the Pro from Dover
washington d.c., United States
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In a message dated 4/6/2006 12:25:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time, “Kirbert” palmk@nettally.com writes:

Pro from Dover wrote:

Actually, even after the rack is centered by the above method, it is
still quite possible to have the steering wheel off, possibly by a
large amount.It all depends on how careful the rebuilder of the rack
was. The pinion gear could be installed in any position consistent
with the gears meshing. This means that the notch could be located
anywhere in the circle. The connection between the upper and lower
steering columns is made to facilitate fixing this problem. The
‘‘notch’’ on the lower connection of the upper column (located in the
footwell at the top u joint ) is in fact a groove, so the upper column
can be aligned as required. The upper column should, in fact, be
centered by this method, avoiding mislocating the turn signal
cancellation device, and making the steering lock work as designed.

Kirbert wrote:

Entirely wrong.

Hi Kirby: I realize that you haven’t had an XJ-S for several years to refresh your recollection (whereas Jesse sees them probably almost daily), but Jesse (The Pro) is entirely correct.

What you may be forgetting is that the top of the steering rack pinion shaft, to which the pinch bolt fitting in the lower steering column attaches, has a notch cut in it, similar to a notch in a log of a log cabin. This notch prevents the pinch bolt splined fitting from sliding off the pinion shaft should the pinch bolt loosen. However, the notch requires the pinch bolt fitting of the lower column to attach to the pinion shaft in only one radial position.

“Perfect World” rebuilding of the rack would have the notch of the pinion shaft in a specified position (e.g. notch at 12 o’clock) when the rack is centered, but what Jesse is saying is that does NOT occur. Hence, a rebuilt rack may have the notch at any position when the rack is centered, and the only correct way to center the steering wheel to the center position of the rack is to adjust at the point where the upper steering shaft attaches to the U-joint connecting the upper & lower steering shafts.

Since the upper end of the lower steering shaft also has a notch, the pinch bolt prevents rotating to alternate positions there. The lower end of the upper steering column has a groove that goes all the way around the periphery of the splines, preventing the U-joint from slipping off the upper shaft should the pinch bolt loosen, but allowing the splines of the upper shaft and the U-joint to be joined in any radial position.

Since removing the wheel to center the steering wheel (as I incorrectly suggested in an earlier post – and Jesse was correcting me by his post) can prevent proper turn signal cancelling and proper operation of the steering wheel lock, his statement is absolutely correct (as usual).

George Balthrop, Clifton, VA USA
85 & 89 XJ-S Coupes; 89 XJ40 VDP

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the Pro from Dover wrote:

The
rack of the rack and pinion , ie the long ‘‘bar’’ that connects to the
tie rod assenblies on both sides, has a center. That center is located
by inserting a pin as described above. The pinion gear that connects
to the steering column , is just that, a gear. The pinion gear has a
notch machined in 1 place . The pinion gear can be meshed with the
rack in as many places as there are teeth on the gear. Only 1 place
will put the notch in the correct place relative to the steering
column. If all were perfect in the world, the rebuilders of the racks
would insert the pinion with the correct orientation. The fact is,
they don’t. Since you can only connect the rack and the lower column
in one place, the factory built in a way to correct the resulting
misalignment. I have changed hundreds of these racks, and almost
without exception , they required re - centering the column when the
rack was installed. I quote from the Factory manual, section 57 13’‘If
a replacement rack unit is to be fitted it may be necessary to detach
the lower column at the universal joint to obtain the correct
centralization’’

OK, lemme see if I have this straight. There’s the rack, which has a
splined shaft sticking out of the top of the tower, and this spline
has a missing tooth or two so it can only be reconnected to the
universal coupling one way – and this may be in the wrong place
because the nimnul rebuilding the rack didn’t do his job right. Then
there’s ANOTHER connection somewhere in there with splines that DON’T
have a missing tooth so you can put them together any which-a-way in
order to correct for the nimnul’s shoddy work? Where is this second
set of splines? Between the universal coupling and the lower end of
the steering column shaft?

If this is the case, I still stick with my contention, although it
must be clarified. The way to center the steering wheel is to insert
a dowel in the rack, and then center the steering wheel – by
disconnecting the universal joint from the lower steering column,
aligning the steering wheel, and reassembling, NOT by pulling the
steering wheel itself off and reinstalling. Once done, it’s done, no
need to readjust.

I hate it when designers provide a positive indexing feature for no
good reason. There was one heinous example at P&WA I remember, a
seal in the F100 turbine. On a jet engine, a seal is a metal ring
with a couple of knife edges around the OD. This ring pressed onto
one turbine disc, and then that turbine disc was installed on a
splined shaft. They put a missing spline on the seal to ensure that
it would be installed in a particular position – but it often was
not, it would be off a tooth or two, you couldn’t tell when it went
together because you couldn’t see it. The assembly tools were
powerful enough that they would simply crush that section of the
seal, and the turbine would go together and run fine. The only time
anyone would find out was at the next rebuild, when the seal would be
found damaged and would have to be replaced.

The seal ring was perfectly symmetrical EXCEPT for the missing
spline. I argued until I was blue in the face that the missing
spline should be deleted from the design so the seal could be
installed any which-a-way without damage. All fell on deaf ears; “We
must insure that seal is indexed properly when installed. We simply
must! End of discussion!”

Meanwhile, our competitors at GE were making similar parts without
any such indexing so they could be installed any which-a-way, and
they proceeded to take more and more business from us partly because
their engines required fewer replacement parts, less training, and
fewer special tools to rebuild.

We had a goodie with a bearing, too. There was a roller bearing in
the front of the F100 engine in which the outer race occasionally got
installed backwards. It would run fine, but there was only one
puller groove on the race for getting it out. Once installed
backwards, there was no way to get it out. I argued over and over to
simply install a puller groove on both sides so you could pull it out
whichever way it was installed. Everyone else thought I was nuts and
were working very hard on ways to make sure you couldn’t install the
race backwards, all of which were looking like they were going to
involve the redesign of the support assembly and a lot of expensive
machining and retooling.

– Kirbert

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