I’m thinking about using my week off during Christmas to repair a
leaking front seal on my T400. Has anyone here done the job? What
problems will I encounter? Any special tools I’ll need to buy or
fabricate? I’m already intimately familiar with the rear mount, so
no surprises there. I’m planning to make an engine support out of
wood to suspend the rear of the engine from above while the tranny
is out.
In reply to a message from JagZilla sent Fri 10 Dec 2004:
Buy the workshop manual and video from ATSG - Automotive
Transmission Service Group. Easy to use and great help. Disconnect
the shifter cable from the trans - easy enough to do. Easiest way
to disconnect trans from motor is using pneumatic tools if you
have 'em. Pretty straight forward, nothing unusual or hidden.
In reply to a message from JagZilla sent Fri 10 Dec 2004:
Have you unbolted the torque converter from the drive plate?
If not:
Behind the oil filter housing there is a black rubber plug.
Remove the plug (will probably come out in pieces, buy a new one)
and there are six equally spaced bolts securing the torque
converter to the drive plate. Turn the engine over moving each bolt
so it can be accessed from the hole covered by said plug. Easiest
way to remove these bolts is with a pneumatic socket wrench. Upon
replacement you would be well advised to secure these bolts with
Locktite BLUE (medium strength).
In reply to a message from JagZilla sent Fri 10 Dec 2004:
For work like this there is nothing like PNEUMATIC
TOOLS!!!
Buy a good air compressor for your garage and an assortment of good
quality pneumatic tools. Jobs that are damn near impossible with
hand tools are a breeze with pneumatic tools!!!–
rogerlaf
Sutton, Massachusetts, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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I have never had a problem with air tools in the 25
years of using them. Most bolts will come out unless
rusted or corroded in place. The hammer action helps
break the bolt free. Common sense applied to not use
too big a tool on too small a bolt. The bolts in
China are the exception as most are grade -2.
A long extension will torque and absorb the impact so
use the shortest you can. For transmission to engine
bolts a 1/2-inch with a three-foot extension and
wobble impact socket will do the trick. There is no
way you can use a short extension. Loosen the bolt
with an impact. You can also spin it on with practice
however I ususually do not. Use a hand wrench or
torque wrench to tighten. Impacts are inconsistent on
tightening and tighten more than indicated by the
manufactures.
Air is used rapidly so you may have to wait when using
a small compressor and small tank. 90 psi is the
minimum and 120 psi is better. There is no need to go
higher. Air tools make working on cars easier and the
job goes faster.
Hope this helps.> I don’t know anything about air tools. Is there any
risk of
stripping the bolt head, as the ‘spanner’ tries to
turn it?
Regards
George
The original message included these comments:
For work like this there is nothing like PNEUMATIC
In reply to a message from Geoffrey Green sent Mon 13 Dec 2004:
Geoffrey
Many thanks for your very encouraging and helpful
suggestions. I will try out the procedure on the very engine
and gearbox which I had to remove in one piece and is now in
storage, i.e once I have obtained the correct tools for the job.
Regards
George–
The original message included these comments:
higher. Air tools make working on cars easier and the
job goes faster.
Hope this helps.