We have a 6 monthly check for older cars, I had to show the testers that the play in my rear wheels on the XJR was happening from the diff output bearings not the miriad of bearings in the drive shaft and hubs.
I asked and got the answer : the kit is only for one side, you need 2 to fix both sides of the car
seems VERY expensive then : Iām almost sure the spacer can be done on a lathe for not that much
They need to change the listing online then. It says the following.
This exciting new development in bearing assembly is an ingenious yet simple way to extend front bearing and stub axle life and prevent brake pad āknock backā leading to a more responsive brake pedal . The kit consists of high quality replacement bearing kits, nuts, washers, an intermediate shouldered spacer and enough shims to achieve perfect end float. āFull axle kit enough for both sidesā.
$289.86
when I read Full axle kit enough for both sides in the description I would expect to get enough parts to do both sides for advetised price of $289 86
In the UK, they have gone the other way. The DVLA records show that historic vehicles are well maintained by the owners and do not fail MOT tests, to such a degree that vehicles over 40 years old are exempt.
But Iām not sure about play in the rear wheels being acceptable, for any reason. They should be firmly attached to the hub bearings, no? If those bearings are ok, then there is a problem with the hub carrier bushings. And blaming it on play in the diff output bearingsā¦ surely bearing play anywhere is a bad thing.
To be clear: When the bottom of the stub shaft has a groove worn in it by the inner wheel bearing inner race rotating around it, you will not be able to adjust that play out. A new stub shaft is called for.
If someone could figure out what the dimensions of that spacer are, itād be easy.
My point is, why would it be rotating in the first place. If the bearings are always adjusted up tight, how would sloppiness get into the system that would cause the bearing race to start rotating. Iāve completely rebuilt two XJ front ends and replaced front bearings in another couple - all around 100k miles. Always checked the bearing end float every year at MOT time, and never seen this as an issue.
Wouldnāt you also need to know the dimension of the bearings. Arenāt you effectively changing the diameter of the stub shaft, so you would need a new bearing that had an inner diameter smaller than the original.
Itās called precession:
No. Youāre wearing off one side, in this case at the bottom. The end result is non-circular.
End float is not relevant here.
I think the replies are out of sync here. That reply was to the mahoosively expensive stub shaft upgrade. If you are putting a sleeve on the stub axle then the original bearing wonāt fit.
Why not? The sleeve is between the bearings.
Well, I ditched the left hand threaded wheel studs on the left hand side of my Alfa, and the wheels havenāt fallen off yet.
Fair enough. Thatās not clear from the picture or the description.
Presumably you keep the wheel nuts on your Alfa tight.
Even before I switched from steel wheels to later style Cromodoras, which required a change in the studs. I was always shy of taking the Alfa in to a tyre shop, knowing that the righty-tighty rule didnāt work on the left hand side. I would tell them first, then stand over them to make sure. Itās all one way now, and all torqued to the correct spec.
GM cars of old also had LH threads on the left side lug nuts. At some point they evidently decided it was unnecessary.
double post ; removed