Okay it’s me again, I noticed the under coating appeared to
be wet, and upon closer inspection, it’s melting off from
the inside out. I discovered this by looking at the drivers
side (LHD) under at about the center of the wheel arch was
wet (and the gas smell in the cabin was off the hook.
Wouldn’t want to smoke a cigar in this car!!
looked underneath and the radius arm is wet with under
coating as well as the whole left side bottom area around
the radius arm.
Armed with this vague description; what is the best course
of action to fixing this issue?
Thanx
Mark–
God made women in the likeness of a Jaguar
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In reply to a message from MLee sent Sun 10 May 2015:
there is a return hose above the rear suspension here, a
pipe with a length of hose (likewise, the supply line to
engine runs on opposite (passenger) side. check these.
difficult to access if changing. I changed mine when I had
the rear suspension out .
get it in the air safely, and get a good bright penlight.
it could be a loose fitting, a chafe point on hose (or
pipe)–
syzygy
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In reply to a message from syzygy sent Mon 11 May 2015:
Thank you Syzygy,
I’ll give it a go. That would be awesome if I don’t have a
hole in the tank. I’ve lost nearly a whole tanke of gas
through this leak. Not to mention the head ache coming back
from a club meeting. :/–
The original message included these comments:
pipe with a length of hose (likewise, the supply line to
engine runs on opposite (passenger) side. check these.
In reply to a message from MLee sent Tue 12 May 2015:
Well I took a good hard look underneath, and the leak
appears to start at a body seam (LHD) Drivers side behind
the rear wheel, just above where the Radius arm connects to
the body. Almost right under the filler neck, then appears
to have worked underneath the undercoating (because it’s
black and sticky like tar), following the body seam to the
front of the wheel arch (drivers side).
I couldn’t see anything under the car, I’m suspect inside
the trunk. :S then it’s wet (or tar sticky) under the car
around the left radius arm before the IRS cage.
Any thought on what to look for or where to start. e.g.
should I pull the tank?
Thanx for all your support!
Any thoughts?–
The original message included these comments:
pipe with a length of hose (likewise, the supply line to
engine runs on opposite (passenger) side. check these.
Well I took a good hard look underneath, and the leak appears to start
at a body seam (LHD) Drivers side behind the rear wheel, just above
where the Radius arm connects to the body. Almost right under the filler
neck, then appears to have worked underneath the undercoating (because
it’s black and sticky like tar), following the body seam to the front of
the wheel arch (drivers side).
I couldn’t see anything under the car, I’m suspect inside the trunk. :S
then it’s wet (or tar sticky) under the car around the left radius arm
before the IRS cage.
Right above the wheel arch there is a short hose connecting the forward and aft portions of the steel fuel return line. There is another on the supply line on the right side. Most easily replaced with the IRS out, but doable with it in place.
Also look into the filler neck. You might be able to get a hand on the rubber sleeve that connects it to the tank, feeling for evidence of leakage.
In reply to a message from Ed Sowell sent Wed 13 May 2015:
another place to look is inside trunk, remove spare tire,
pull carpet back. there is a screw fitting at bottom left
corner of tank where return fuel enters tank. might be
loose.
hopefully, not the steenking rivet under tank! if it was,
your fuel mess would be in the trunk and BOTH sides.
if for any reason you ever take the tank out, access the
info in Kirby’s book about that g#@ d!_) rivet!–
syzygy
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In reply to a message from MLee sent Sun 10 May 2015:
thank you Gentlemen,
I will root around the inside of the trunk. I’m thinking
that the issue may very likely the fitting at the bottom of
the tank. because of the moisture pattern. it appears to
be coming from the inside of the car. I’ve already reached
up inside the C pillar and felt around like a high school
pervert on a first date. the filler hose didn’t appear to
have any moisture or any other signs it might be the
culprit.
If I end up taking the tank out, I will definitely address
the rivet issue as well as replace all the rubbers back
there. I’ve looked around back there and I have to say it
looks a bit intimidating. all these little rubber hoses
every where. There was one unplugged from a plastic T - I
plugged it back in thinking that would take care of it.
Up until recently, I’ve taken the car to the not so local
Classic Jaguar Specialist; dropped nearly double for what I
paid for the car 16 years ago, and still can’t drive it.
Very frustrating! over the past year or so, I’ve spent my
time repairing/addressing items that weren’t done up
correctly (by the ‘‘specialist’’.
For example the car went in to have the rack replaced.
There is atiny bolt with a grease fitting at the knuckle of
the rack where the steering shaft meets the rack instead of
a grease fitting. Consequently, all of a sudden I’ve got
notchy steering.
Originally, I thought it was out of PS fluid, checked -
nope not so. Got underneath rooted around and noticed the
bolt instead of a grease fitting. S@%t! I hope the rack
isn’t damaged. I did it again - digressed.
Crap! I can’t remember my point of all of this.
sorry, and thank you.–
The original message included these comments:
Armed with this vague description; what is the best course
of action to fixing this issue?
In reply to a message from MLee sent Wed 13 May 2015:
I feel bad for you- the lure of these cars is strong for us
afflicted- and so many ‘‘professionals’’ and ‘‘specialists’’
out there, willing to charge top dollar for hopefully top
notch service but…
I have been able to keep my 87 v12 for 20 yrs because I
have learned to do most/all the maint. etc.
take your time, read Kirby’s book and get down and dirty
when you have to, because no one will take as much care and
patience as YOU will with your car.
so much info available! this site is a treasure trove also.
keep us ‘‘posted’’ many people here with knowledge and a
willingness to help, but you must twist your own wrench
regards, Robert–
syzygy
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In reply to a message from syzygy sent Thu 14 May 2015:
gas you really dont want to bandaid this fix. heres what i
did…you do need to remove the whole tank, but it not a big
deal since tank is in the trunk and not underneath and
strapped on. the filler neck hose has some clamps and you
unscrew 3 screws in filler cap area. then start
disconnecting fuel sender and removing hoses…fyi easier
if tank is almost empty…
i pulled mine out and took a close look at bottom. mine was
ok but sometimes it rusts on bottom with pinhole leaks.
i put a por type sealant in the tank and dried it
completely, and then reassembled.
i did also change all my hoses.
in this way you are guaranteed no leaks and no worries.
fyi my smaller tank did also leak and I had it welded.
it leaked around rim.
In reply to a message from nwmgnt2011 sent Thu 21 May 2015:
if the tank is out, address the rivet issue too. it comes
up on right side of tank due to clamping of battery cable
underneath. peel back the padding, you will find the li’l
sucker–
syzygy
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In reply to a message from Brake-buster sent Sat 23 May 2015:
Bravo Vince, thanks for the great photo layout. It is my
understanding that SNG Barratt is now manufacturing fuel
tanks for the XJ-S now that the car is becoming a classic?
(wasn’t it always?)I was considering approaching someone
here in the states to fabricate a copy from plastic inorder
to get ahead of the ethanol idiots. Best, JW
Great job on your machine after so long a time,congratulations.–
The original message included these comments:
follow the link to see how I removed my fuel tank and dealt
with the rivet last week project fuel tank replacement | Jaguar Forum
1989 XJS 5.3 HE V12 having major body lift in my garage
Gloucester, United Kingdom