[xj] Safe jacking points

Hi

I have to get underneath and shove the center bearing over, and I
might as well check the rear brake pads while I’m at it, but
frankly the thought of being underneath this monster is enough to
soil my undies.

I have two 3-ton trolly jacks and two two-ton jack stands, and I am
wondering how would be the safest to do this. I don’t really want
to put the jack stands under the rear axles; I don’t know if it’s a
good idea to have the weight resting on the axles in case it bends
em a little. I’m not sure if buying any ramps from Pep Boys would
get it up high enough

Some suggestions would be welcome. Presumably, if you have any to
make, you have avoided being dead, which is good.
THanks
Phil–
Phil Moseley
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Phil, I put the cup of the floor jack directly under the diff (not the sheet
metal stiffener plate, but the diff itself) and raise the entire rear of the
car, then use jack stands positioned directly adjacent to the left and right
jacking pegs. Then I go to each side of the car and bounce, push, pull and
basically try my damndest to make the car fall before I crawl under.

(BTW, the extreme outboard ends of the lower wishbones are strong enough for
jacking or jackstands…just remember to remove the grease fittings
rst )

Even after the car is safely up on stands I generally reposition and extend
the floor jack at some other point under the car so that, even if the worst
happens, the car (hopefully) won’t fall completely to the ground.

Going a bit further, it’s a good idea to give some family members a quick
lesson on using the floor jack so they can rescue you if needed.

(Hate to sound so grim, but you can’t be too careful)

Doug Dwyer
Longview, Washington USA
1987 Ser III XJ6
1988 XJS V12From: “Phil Moseley” pmoseley@metrocast.net

Some suggestions would be welcome. Presumably, if you have any to
make, you have avoided being dead, which is good.

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In reply to a message from Phil Moseley sent Mon 26 Jul 2004:

Phil:

Chock the front wheels, and place the floor Jack under the rear end
differential plate, with a piece of wood that will fit inside the
plate without damaging the thin protruding edge. Jack the car and
place the jack stands under the rear jacking points, and lower the
floor jack gently. Ensure the car is rock solid. I use 3 ton jack
stands though.

Cheers–
The original message included these comments:

I have to get underneath and shove the center bearing over, and I
might as well check the rear brake pads while I’m at it, but
frankly the thought of being underneath this monster is enough to
soil my undies.
I have two 3-ton trolly jacks and two two-ton jack stands, and I am
wondering how would be the safest to do this. I don’t really want
to put the jack stands under the rear axles; I don’t know if it’s a
good idea to have the weight resting on the axles in case it bends
em a little. I’m not sure if buying any ramps from Pep Boys would
get it up high enough
Some suggestions would be welcome. Presumably, if you have any to


Larry Karpman '88 V12 SIII, '94 MX-5
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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In reply to a message from Larry Karpman sent Mon 26 Jul 2004:

Go to Photo Album and search for ‘‘jack’’. Follow the link for
‘‘Jacking Aids for XJ6’’ by Jack McGough. Search for ramp and
follow link for ‘‘Ultra Ramps’’ by Mike Frank. I’ve been
trying to find these but haven’t yet. I got some low rise
ramps from Schucks that fit under the rear quarters. Hope
this helps.

Mr. Kim Hall
Everett, WA
1987 XJ6 VDP 4.2L
AKA Hall-O-Grafix–
The original message included these comments:

I have two 3-ton trolly jacks and two two-ton jack stands, and I am
wondering how would be the safest to do this. I don’t really want
to put the jack stands under the rear axles; I don’t know if it’s a
good idea to have the weight resting on the axles in case it bends
em a little. I’m not sure if buying any ramps from Pep Boys would
get it up high enough


Kim Hall
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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have two 3-ton trolly jacks and two two-ton jack stands, and I am
wondering how would be the safest to do this.

Further to Doug’s answer, I advise not using the jacking points at all
(other than for the relatively safe process of roadside wheel changing)
until you are certain they are strong enough - and you may never be that
certain! Jacking up by the subframes and then supporting on jack stands on
the outer ends of the rear fulcrums and under the spring pans at the front
is safest. To avoid the grease nipple issue, just put the stand with its
cup straddling the outermost end of the fulcrum’s round tube.

I’m unsure of the wisdom of lifting the car at the rear by the differential
housing - or its drain plug. This puts a severe local strain on the
housing. It’s probably ok, but IMHO it’s better to jack in the middle of
the tie plate via a decent bit of hard wood ideally grooved to locate on
the tie plate’s lips. This then spreads the load over a larger area and is
one less strain on the often-weakened diff-to-subframe mounting area. I’ve
seen many of these with big splits in the subframe metal…

Chris

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Doug, I’m sorely tempted to ask you questions about how high you have to
jack it up - but I wont!
:slight_smile:

Cheers. Mate!
Fazal

Phil, I put the cup of the floor jack directly under the diff (not the
sheet
metal stiffener plate, but the diff itself) and raise the entire rear of
the
car, then use jack stands positioned directly adjacent to the left and
right----- Original Message -----
From: “Doug Dwyer” dougdwyer@earthlink.net
jacking pegs. Then I go to each side of the car and bounce, push, pull and
basically try my damndest to make the car fall before I crawl under.

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In reply to a message from Fazal Cader sent Mon 26 Jul 2004:

It is a pain in the butt getting under these things. I got
some ramps and they are totally useless with the Jag, the
front of the car is so low it just pushes them before they
get near a tire. With the Land Rover you can do just about
anything without a jack, except maybe change a tire ;^)
Jim Legge
'85 SIII XJ
'96 LR Disco–
The original message included these comments:

Doug, I’m sorely tempted to ask you questions about how high you have to
jack it up - but I wont!
:slight_smile:
Cheers. Mate!
Fazal


James Legge
Washington, DC, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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In reply to a message from Chris Knowles sent Mon 26 Jul 2004:

You are correct Chris. I meant to say ‘‘tie plate’’

Cheers–
The original message included these comments:

I’m unsure of the wisdom of lifting the car at the rear by the differential
housing - or its drain plug. This puts a severe local strain on the
housing. It’s probably ok, but IMHO it’s better to jack in the middle of
the tie plate via a decent bit of hard wood ideally grooved to locate on
the tie plate’s lips. This then spreads the load over a larger area and is


Larry Karpman '88 V12 SIII, '94 MX-5
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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It is a pain in the butt getting under these things. I got
some ramps and they are totally useless with the Jag, the
front of the car is so low it just pushes them before they
get near a tire. With the Land Rover you can do just about
anything without a jack, except maybe change a tire ;^)

Jim, I wonder if your front end is sagging a bit too much. I use ramps all
the time with my '86.===================================================
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In reply to a message from Chuck Renner sent Tue 27 Jul 2004:

Chuck,
I’m fairly sure that both my ends are sagging, and the Jag’s
are too ! One of these days I’ll have to replace all the coils on
the Jag, maybe next time I replace the shocks.
Cheers,
Jim Legge
'85 SIII XJ
'96 LR Disco–
The original message included these comments:

Jim, I wonder if your front end is sagging a bit too much. I use ramps all
the time with my '86.


James Legge
Washington, DC, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–

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In reply to a message from Phil Moseley sent Mon 26 Jul 2004:

I assume you have a 3 ton floor jack, get 4 good jack stands
from sears, the best they sell. Lift the front under the front
carriage, and put 2 jackstands under the outer 2 lifting pegs.
Then lift the rear by using a piece of wood under the
differential to jack the rear up and placing 2 jack stands
under the rear pegs.
That should be safe for any work.
Walter–
The original message included these comments:

I have two 3-ton trolly jacks and two two-ton jack stands, and I am
wondering how would be the safest to do this. I don’t really want
to put the jack stands under the rear axles; I don’t know if it’s a


69E / 78XJ6 / 73 VW Ghia
albuquerque/new mexico, United States
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