In an off list post, Charles suggested mounting the engine on its stand from
the side, rather than the end, to get the center of gravity closer to the
pivot point.
He said that someone posted a diagram for an attaching plate that bolts to
the side of the engine for attachment purposes.
I’ve checked the achieves but am unable to find the post.
Is anyone on this list the author of that diagram, know where it is, or have
used it, or have any comments on the suggestion.
And, if you have mounted an engine from the end, is that any problem?
In reply to a message from Lou Danzico sent Sun 25 Jan 2004:
A straight six mounted from the back end only is a HUGE
weight hanging on attachement points on the block that were
never designed to take that. I have also had at least one
friend who had a standard engine stand with a jag six engine
hung off it from the rear almost loose a body part because
the whole engine stand and engine tipped over on him because
the weight was off balance.
What I have done in the past is build a sturdy 4’ x 4’ x 40’’
(height last) table and build the engine on there.–
The original message included these comments:
In an off list post, Charles suggested mounting the engine on its stand from
the side, rather than the end, to get the center of gravity closer to the
pivot point.
–
Steven A. DuChene - XJ6VDP XJ6C XJ12C XK120SE 3.8S E-Types
Reston, VA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from StevenD57 sent Sun 25 Jan 2004:
I use a Clarke Heavy duty engine stand with an adjustable mounting
arrangement bolted thro’ 4 of the bellhousing mounting holes. it
just clears the teeth on the driveplate/flywheel this arrangement
has proved perfectly stable even with the engine rotated 90
degrees. I use an engine crane to rotate the engine on the stand.
the stand has a large pin in the pivot to lock the engine in
position.
It is possible to fabricate a plate to mount the block on the oil
filter housing mounting holes but I have never done this.
This engine stand sits on 4 castors with a pretty wide base.–
Keith Turner '79 XJ6 based Aristocat, , '81 3.4 XJ6
Swansea, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Keith Turner sent Sun 25 Jan 2004:
Yes but the stress on the back of the block of hanging all
that off there is just not a good idea in my opinion. At the
very least I would not put the cylinder head on until it was
done on the ground.–
The original message included these comments:
I use a Clarke Heavy duty engine stand with an adjustable mounting
arrangement bolted thro’ 4 of the bellhousing mounting holes. it
just clears the teeth on the driveplate/flywheel this arrangement
has proved perfectly stable even with the engine rotated 90
degrees. I use an engine crane to rotate the engine on the stand.
the stand has a large pin in the pivot to lock the engine in
position.
This engine stand sits on 4 castors with a pretty wide base.
Keith Turner '79 XJ6 based Aristocat, , '81 3.4 XJ6
–
Steven A. DuChene - XJ6VDP XJ6C XJ12C XK120SE 3.8S E-Types
Reston, VA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
“In an off list post, Charles suggested mounting the engine on its stand from
the side, rather than the end, to get the center of gravity closer to the
pivot point.”
Lou and list,
I just went through this during the overhaul of my 1982 XJ6. I used the
Harbor Freight unit rated at 1000 lbs. I pulled the head and all accessories on
the exhaust side before I removed the engine from the car, then separated the
trans and removed the flex plate with the engine sitting on the ground, but
still connected to the hoist. I stripped it the rest of the way with it resting
on a small hydraulic motorcycle lift. When I started reassembling it, I
mounted it crosswise by the intake side; I was able to get three of the mounting
arms connected in a very wide pattern using the tapped holes just above the sump
and one of the oil filter adapter mounting holes; I have uploaded a picture to
jag-lovers showing it on the stand; note there are 2 arms in the bottom right
slot and the one in the top left slot is not attached to anything. This was
very stable and made it very easy to spin the engine by myself as I reassembled
the short block. In this orientation, I installed the cylinder head,
flexplate, sump and timing chest with no problems. When I needed access to the intake
side, I mounted it by four bolts to the bell housing holes. In this position
the nose of the engine sagged alarmingly (although the stand held) so I
lifted it while my wife slipped a 15" piece of 4x4 timber under the front of the
sump, with the bottom end at the ‘T’ of the stand. You have to use a whammer
to get it exactly vertical under the sump and centered on the stand. This took
just enough weight off the head of the stand so the full assembly was very
stable and I could roll it around for access, etc. It is possible to turn the
engine upside down/rightside up when it is mounted like this by yourself but it
is much easier with two people. I would not use any stand rated at less than
1000 lbs; Harbor Freight pounds are smaller than American and Imperial pounds
and I think this specific unit is marginal for an assembled engine mounted
longwise. If you buy a quality stand rated at 1000 lbs. you should have no
problems.
Best wishes,
Patrick Cherry
Ventura, CA===================================================
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