Just replaced the radiator myself (fun job) and now my next
project has just presented itself…just to keep me busy and
out of trouble…
The rear drive (differential to US) has developed a leak
from the left side. Can’t tell if it comes from the left
output axle seal. Appears to come from above. Anyways,
thought I would take it to a mechanic to check it out this
time. I live in the suburbs of north Dallas and need a
mechanic referral. I would take it down to Fair Park to
have John’s Cars look at it, as he replaced the rear
bearings about a year ago, but it is a far piece to go.
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In reply to a message from GaryTX sent Fri 27 May 2005:
OK…Jacked up the left rear wheel, and the axle moves in
and out of the differential a good bit. Surprising since I
just had the rear output bearings replaced a year ago.
Is this a job I should try? I don’t have all the special
tools the CD mentions. Any tricks from anyone that has
tried to replace the bearings, etc. here? Or once again, is
there a likely reasonable Jag- mechanic near the Plano area?
thanks!–
The original message included these comments:
The rear drive (differential to US) has developed a leak
from the left side. Can’t tell if it comes from the left
output axle seal. Appears to come from above. Anyways,
thought I would take it to a mechanic to check it out this
time. I live in the suburbs of north Dallas and need a
mechanic referral. I would take it down to Fair Park to
have John’s Cars look at it, as he replaced the rear
bearings about a year ago, but it is a far piece to go.
94 XJ12
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OK…Jacked up the left rear wheel, and the axle moves in
and out of the differential a good bit. Surprising since I
just had the rear output bearings replaced a year ago.
Is this a job I should try? I don’t have all the special
tools the CD mentions. Any tricks from anyone that has
tried to replace the bearings, etc. here? Or once again, is
there a likely reasonable Jag- mechanic near the Plano area?
How much play? It’s normal to have half a mm or so of play at the flange
after a year or two of use, that should not cause a leak though. If the leak
is just seepage, you could leave it alone… Otherwise, I’d go talk to the
installer of your output bearings.
Motorcars LTD has a new shop in the Dallas area, you might consider them if
you’re not far from Dallas. (I don’t know Texas, but I guess everywhere is
Texas is pretty far from everywhere else in Texas since it’s so big!)
You could also order and install rebuilt output shafts yourself. Coventry
West sells 'em on an exchange basis, and the operation is not too complex.
Taking yours out and changing the bearings and seals would require a lot of
effort, parts and tools, and a hydraulic press.
Dave Lokensgard
'96 XJR (DAVZCAT)
'90 Sovereign (MELZKAT)
'90 Vanden Plas Majestic (PATZCAT)
'55 XK140 OTS
Poway, California
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In reply to a message from Lokensgard sent Sat 28 May 2005:
Thanks Dave!
Started the job you suggest. Got two of the nuts off (they
were nearly loose) the output shaft flange, but two are
really tight. I’m gonna soak ‘em in Liquid Wrench for a
while and try again. After I get those off, does the the
axle just pull off and out of the way as the CD suggests?
By the way, the play in and out is significantly more than a
mm…more like 3/8’'!!
I’ll call the new Motorcars Dallas facility this morning if
they’re open (not too far from me). Thanks for the referral!
Hopefully, they’ll have the rebuilt unit on hand, otherwise,
I’ll have to drive my inherited cool 67 Dodge Polara until
after the holiday. Actually, it would be much cooler if the
A/C compressor wasn’t leaking (another project in the wings).
Thanks for the advise and encouragement!
Gary–
The original message included these comments:
How much play? It’s normal to have half a mm or so of play at the flange
after a year or two of use, that should not cause a leak though. If the leak
Motorcars LTD has a new shop in the Dallas area, you might consider them if
You could also order and install rebuilt output shafts yourself. Coventry
West sells 'em on an exchange basis, and the operation is not too complex.
Taking yours out and changing the bearings and seals would require a lot of
effort, parts and tools, and a hydraulic press.
Dave Lokensgard
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In reply to a message from GaryTX sent Sat 28 May 2005:
Gadzooks!
I cannot get the remaining two nuts off! Used Liquid
Wrench, a long cheater bar…then went and bought an
electric impact wrench…240 ft/lbs of torque…still no
good. Any ideas? I hope the last guy to replace the bearing
didn’t do something strange like spot weld them on!
Thanks in advance!
Gary
94 XJ12–
The original message included these comments:
Started the job you suggest. Got two of the nuts off (they
were nearly loose) the output shaft flange, but two are
really tight. I’m gonna soak 'em in Liquid Wrench for a
while and try again. After I get those off, does the the
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In reply to a message from GaryTX sent Sun 29 May 2005:
Finally got the last two nuts off…lots of Liquid Wrench,
impact wrench, and finally a ridiculously long cheater
bar…it was either gonna come or bleed! Looks as if the
previous service guy from a year ago may have put LockTite
on them and probably used a pnuematic impact wrench to put
them on.
Cracked retainer let the bearing move too much, it looks like.
Ordering a rebuilt unit from Coventry West as suggested here.
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Finally got the last two nuts off…lots of Liquid Wrench,
impact wrench, and finally a ridiculously long cheater
bar…it was either gonna come or bleed! Looks as if the
previous service guy from a year ago may have put LockTite
on them and probably used a pnuematic impact wrench to put
them on.
Cracked retainer let the bearing move too much, it looks like.
Ordering a rebuilt unit from Coventry West as suggested here.
Thanks for all the advice!
Good work, now be sure not to lose or mix up the shims that were behind the
bearings in the diff housing. They need to go back in when you reassemble.
Dave Lokensgard
'96 XJR (DAVZCAT)
'90 Sovereign (MELZKAT)
'90 Vanden Plas Majestic (PATZCAT)
'55 XK140 OTS
Poway, California
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In reply to a message from Lokensgard sent Wed 1 Jun 2005:
Those shims…I was resting/celebrating back in the house
after getting the final drive out, and decided to look again
at the CDROM. I realized I had not seen the 3 shims, so I
went back out to the car and had to stress my fingernails to
pull them out. I kept them in the same order and position,
but I wonder if that makes a difference. Hopefully,
reinstalling them with the rebuilt unit (which should arrive
today) will result in the recommended clearance (that
reminds me…I have to locate my gap feeler gauges). I also
ordered 4 new ‘‘cleavis nuts’’, since a couple of the old ones
were boogered up from all the fun getting them off. I think
I’ll get 5 new bolts to mount the unit to the differential
case also, if I can match them up. It’ll cost double, but I
might just get those from the local dealer, just to be sure.
Anyone know what the torque figures are for the bolts and
nuts? The CDROM uses limey units that my rebel torque
wrench doesn’t understand.
Thanks!
Gary 94 XJ12 rear final drive unit replacement–
The original message included these comments:
Good work, now be sure not to lose or mix up the shims that were behind the
bearings in the diff housing. They need to go back in when you reassemble.
Dave Lokensgard
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In reply to a message from GaryTX sent Wed 1 Jun 2005:
Gary,
I don’t know which CD-Rom you have, but if you look in the General
Information Torque Figures section at page 06-2, Jaguar kindly
thopught of you colonials and provide a conversion from Newton
Metres to lbf/ft (the latter being the ‘limey’ IMPERIAL units of
course!)–
The original message included these comments:
Anyone know what the torque figures are for the bolts and
nuts? The CDROM uses limey units that my rebel torque
wrench doesn’t understand.
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In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Wed 1 Jun 2005:
Thanks Bryan!
I’ll take a look-see.
Another question. Jag calls the replacement bolts holding
this thing onto the differential ‘‘Omniseal’’ bolts. A couple
of service/parts guys (Jag dealer didn’t have new ones in
stock, of course) recommended just wire brushing the old
ones, cleaning them in Berryman’s, then using either blue or
red LockTite. Any suggestions here?
Refill: After all this is put together, I want to drain and
refill the rear end. CDROM indicates 90W…on the shelf
here locally, there are a few multi-grade types available,
including those with the limited slip additive already in
it. Any recommendations on which to use?
Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions!!
Waiting for FedEx to deliver the part,
Gary–
The original message included these comments:
I don’t know which CD-Rom you have, but if you look in the General
Information Torque Figures section at page 06-2, Jaguar kindly
thopught of you colonials and provide a conversion from Newton
Metres to lbf/ft (the latter being the ‘limey’ IMPERIAL units of
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, (RHD)
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In reply to a message from GaryTX sent Wed 1 Jun 2005:
Gary,
Those Output bearing oil seal housing bolts are not highly torqued
(51 - 58 NM = ~ 40 lbf/ft) so I would put a dab of blue thread
locker on them if they clean up OK and the threads are not ragged.
Can’t advise you on a suitable US diff oil - I’m still using Shell
Spirax Super 90 in the Powerlok diff on my '91.–
The original message included these comments:
stock, of course) recommended just wire brushing the old
ones, cleaning them in Berryman’s, then using either blue or
red LockTite. Any suggestions here?
refill the rear end. CDROM indicates 90W…on the shelf
here locally, there are a few multi-grade types available,
including those with the limited slip additive already in
it. Any recommendations on which to use?
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from Bryan N sent Wed 1 Jun 2005:
Bryan,
I’m sure glad I got your message. I had not read the torque
specs very carefully. It mentioned 81 - 99 Nm for the 4
cleavis nuts, but 51 - 58 Nm for the ‘‘oil seal housing to
differential,’’ which I assume is the output shaft housing.
Thank goodness I didn’t twist something off (which the
previous serviceman might have attempted).
I think I may try Royal Purple 70/145w I found by search of
the forums, which comes complete with the AS additive
needed. Couldn’t find the Shell product here in TX.
Thanks much!
Gary–
The original message included these comments:
Those Output bearing oil seal housing bolts are not highly torqued
(51 - 58 NM = ~ 40 lbf/ft) so I would put a dab of blue thread
locker on them if they clean up OK and the threads are not ragged.
Can’t advise you on a suitable US diff oil - I’m still using Shell
Spirax Super 90 in the Powerlok diff on my '91.
Bryan N, '91 Sovereign 4.0 L, (RHD)
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