For those faced with a failed door lock actuator (again!)
this may be of some help. I just replaced my RF door lock
actuator for the 2nd time, and I believe it was replaced at
least once before by the previous owner because holes to
access the mounting screws had been drilled - or chewed! -
in the door. My first replacement was a used Jag (Kiekert)
unit which, even used, seemed a bit pricey. This time I
opted to go with an aftermarket unit. I found - for less
than $10 - a Crimestopper CS-610.S2 that looked like it
would work. The physical size was good, it had 5 wires
(needed because of the internal switch that lets the
security system know the state of the actuator), the
mounting holes were spaced exactly the same as the OEM
unit, and the OEM mounting screws threaded into the holes
just like OEM. I spent a bit of time with a 9 volt battery
and an ohm meter determining which wires did what as there
was no literature included with the unit. I cut the
connector off an OEM unit and after temporarily twisting
wires together and testing the unit for proper operation I
soldered the wires up, covered the joints with shrink
tubing, and voila, I’m back in business. Here’s how the
wires mapped out and the location in the OEM connector:_________________________
1 2 3
X 5 4
____________
Pin OEM Connector CS-610.S2
1 Purple/Pink Green
2 Purple/Orange Blue
3 Purple/White Brown
4 Yellow/Orange White
5 Black/Pink Black
X Not connected N/A
Pins 1 & 2 are for the power to the actuator motor -
polarity is reversed for lock / unlock. Pins 3-5 are for
the internal switch that allows the security system to
determine whether the lock actuator is in the locked (down)
or unlocked (up) position. Hope this is helpful to someone
with a duff door lock actuator. By the way, the CS unit
also comes in a 2-wire version (CS-610.S1) that should work
for the back doors.
–
Mike Stone - 1994 XJ6/XJ40 - 170,XXX miles
Springfield, Missouri, United States
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In reply to a message from Mike Stone sent Sun 29 Mar 2015:
Mike,
what a great discovery and help! Thank you for this valuable
information! And for less than $10 it’s a steal. Any pics? :)–
Joseph '94 XJ40 (British Steel, Maiden England) Naples, FL
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In reply to a message from Joe77 sent Mon 30 Mar 2015:
Sorry, I didn’t think about taking any pictures. And now
that I’ve seen how my post came out I hope the wiring info
makes sense. The formatting (spacing) got jacked up
somewhere in the process. The horizontal lines with the
numbers between (1 2 3 etc.) was SUPPOSED to represent the
squarish connector as if you were facing the open (pin) end
of it. How long this aftermarket actuator will last
remains to be seen, but given the cost differential from
OEM I can buy these generic replacements and dive back into
the door multiple times if necessary. If I do have to re-
do this I’ll try to remember to take some pictures!–
The original message included these comments:
what a great discovery and help! Thank you for this valuable
information! And for less than $10 it’s a steal. Any pics?
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In reply to a message from Mike Stone sent Wed 1 Apr 2015:
Hi Mike,
I was pleased to read your post, I have a none
functioning drivers door (r/h) solenoid. I’ve been waiting
for a break in the weather to investigate further.
The Haynes manual says to check for 12V at that plug while
operating the key in the lock BUT it does not say which
pins to check.
I guessed straight away you had typed it that way to
represent the plug while looking end on, great idea ! for me
anyway. Your post will be a big help because I’m hopeless at
interpreting the wiring diagrams, and needing a large
magnifying glass to read them is no help either.
I’m not sure if I can obtain a generic replacement here in
the UK if it turns out that it’s at fault, but I’ll
certainly be looking. I think I paid more than �100 for the
last one from the JDHT by the time they added on the V.A.T.
and postage.
cheers.–
The original message included these comments:
that I’ve seen how my post came out I hope the wiring info
makes sense. The formatting (spacing) got jacked up
somewhere in the process. The horizontal lines with the
numbers between (1 2 3 etc.) was SUPPOSED to represent the
squarish connector as if you were facing the open (pin) end
of it. How long this aftermarket actuator will last
remains to be seen, but given the cost differential from
OEM I can buy these generic replacements and dive back into
the door multiple times if necessary. If I do have to re-
do this I’ll try to remember to take some pictures!
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from Casso sent Wed 1 Apr 2015:
Casso, I believe you should be able to get a suitable
aftermarket actuator via eBay UK or directly from a
vendor’s Web site. Another unit I’ve seen listed that I
believe would work is the Directed DEI 524F 5-Wire High
Power Door Lock Actuator (copied from a listing on eBay).
Post back if you have any questions about troubleshooting
your actuator. I am by no means an electrical engineer but
I was able to figure mine out. Good luck!–
The original message included these comments:
anyway. Your post will be a big help because I’m hopeless at
interpreting the wiring diagrams, and needing a large
magnifying glass to read them is no help either.
I’m not sure if I can obtain a generic replacement here in
the UK if it turns out that it’s at fault, but I’ll
certainly be looking. I think I paid more than �100 for the
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In reply to a message from Mike Stone sent Sun 29 Mar 2015:
Mike…
Looking at the ‘‘Crime Stopper’’ actuator and the Jaguar one,
they physically look completely different.
But you say that the ‘‘Crime Stopper’’ is a bolt in replacement.
$10 rather than $100 … excellent find!–
Groove, 1989 XJ6 3.6L
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In reply to a message from Grooveman sent Thu 2 Apr 2015:
Some years ago, I bought two kits – Tesor Central Power
Door Locking Systems #CS-6604 – complete with wiring
harnesses and relays. I used three actuators from one kit
and haven’t had an issue since. The hardest part of the job
is that Jaguar installed the actuators before the outer door
skin went on so getting the phillips-head screws out is
But I just looked on eBay and found an identical two-wire
operator is tedious. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-Universal-Auto-Car-Truck-12-Volt-Heavy-Duty-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-Motor-/181316954894?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a37552b0e&vxp=mtr
You’d need a 5-wire operator for the front doors. Good hunting.–
The original message included these comments:
Looking at the ‘‘Crime Stopper’’ actuator and the Jaguar one,
they physically look completely different.
But you say that the ‘‘Crime Stopper’’ is a bolt in replacement.
$10 rather than $100 … excellent find!
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from Mike Stone sent Sun 29 Mar 2015:
Thanks for the advice Mike. I’ve just picked up a couple of
these for $7 each from Sonic Electronix. I despaired of ever
being able to use the central locking again after seeing the
price of actuators from JDHT.–
The original message included these comments:
opted to go with an aftermarket unit. I found - for less
than $10 - a Crimestopper CS-610.S2 that looked like it
would work. The physical size was good, it had 5 wires
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from dr_gaz sent Mon 13 Apr 2015:
Well done Gary. The vendor you cite sounds mighty
familiar! Did you purchase the 2-wire versions (for rear
doors) or the 5-wires (front doors)? Give a shout if you
need any help with the wiring. Best of luck.–
The original message included these comments:
Thanks for the advice Mike. I’ve just picked up a couple of
these for $7 each from Sonic Electronix. I despaired of ever
being able to use the central locking again after seeing the
price of actuators from JDHT.
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In reply to a message from Mike Stone sent Mon 13 Apr 2015:
They are the five wire ones Mike, with the same part number
that you cited in the original post. Both of my front doors
have problems, some spasmodic, some permanent.
Thanks for your offer of help. I will follow your
instructions and report if I have any problems.
Cheers, Gary–
The original message included these comments:
Well done Gary. The vendor you cite sounds mighty
familiar! Did you purchase the 2-wire versions (for rear
doors) or the 5-wires (front doors)? Give a shout if you
need any help with the wiring. Best of luck.
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from dr_gaz sent Mon 13 Apr 2015:
Gary - forgive me if I’m suggesting something you already
know but I would urge you, while you are inside the doors,
to lubricate the door lock mechanisms. They get ‘sticky’
over time and if your door lock actuators are marginal they
don’t cope well. If you haven’t recently done so it would
be a good idea to remove the door panels (cards) from the
rear doors and lubricate those lock mechanisms. I have
found the central locking system will not operate properly
if any one of the four door locks is malfunctioning. In
fact, before dismissing any of the lock actuators as faulty
I would recommend removing the suspect actuator from the
door but leaving the wiring connected and try operating the
lock system to see if the actuator motor operates as it
should and whether the internal switch of the five-wire
[front] actuators is functioning. Of course the actuator
can also be bench tested, but it is easy to test it while
connected to the vehicle harness.–
The original message included these comments:
They are the five wire ones Mike, with the same part number
that you cited in the original post. Both of my front doors
have problems, some spasmodic, some permanent.
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In reply to a message from Mike Stone sent Tue 14 Apr 2015:
All good advice, thanks Mike. I have read a number of
threads on these forums about central locking issues and
they have helped me enormously.
I’ve inspected and cleaned/lubricated all the lock
mechanisms but got stuck when I took the dodgy actuators out
of the doors. I couldn’t open the sealed actuator cases
without risking damage, to the cases or myself, so I gave up
and reinstalled them. I continued to lock the car using the key.
This is where your post encouraged me to try again. At this
cost it makes it worthwile to replace the actuators. I seem
to remember a price of A$600 to replace the driver door
actuator with a new genuine actuator from JDHT, which
stumped me.
Indeed, I don’t know why I’m doing this work, other than in
appreciation of a fine automobile. I live in a very small
town in Australia where the car is never locked. It lives in
a big shed that is locked. I only lock the car doors when we
go shopping once a week in the nearby town. I could probably
get by securing the car doors with a piece of string!–
The original message included these comments:
Gary - forgive me if I’m suggesting something you already
know but I would urge you, while you are inside the doors,
to lubricate the door lock mechanisms. They get ‘sticky’
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In reply to a message from dr_gaz sent Wed 15 Apr 2015:
I can report back that I have been successful in fitting the
replacement door lock actuators. Many thanks again to Mike
for setting me in the right direction. And all for $7 (plus
freight and wait from the US).
I’ve put some photos up here http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1432035588 It’s a bit
difficult to illustrate something that is hidden in the
door, but you might get the idea.–
1992 Daimler 4.0 litre
Penshurst, Victoria, Australia
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In reply to a message from dr_gaz sent Tue 19 May 2015:
Gary,
Glad to hear (and see) you got it sorted. I’m a couple of
months in since I replaced mine and - knock on wood - all
is still well with my lock system. Well done! Glad I
could be of help to you and hopefully others to come. This
forum has been such an incredibly helpful resource to me I
have a big debt to repay.–
The original message included these comments:
I can report back that I have been successful in fitting the
replacement door lock actuators. Many thanks again to Mike
for setting me in the right direction. And all for $7 (plus
freight and wait from the US).
I’ve put some photos up here http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1432035588 It’s a bit
difficult to illustrate something that is hidden in the
door, but you might get the idea.
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from Mike Stone sent Tue 19 May 2015:
You are right there Mike. I want to keep this car running
and I need to draw on the experiences of others to do that.
I actually bought two of the actuators because I thought
that the front passenger door had a similar problem, but
once the drivers door was done the other problem cleared up,
so now I have a spare for next time. It may be that all the
central locking issues I had were due to the one faulty
door, but we will see in time. Anyway, I now know a lot more
about how it works and am confident that I can solve any
future problem.
Were the photos a decent representation of how your repair
went too?–
The original message included these comments:
could be of help to you and hopefully others to come. This
forum has been such an incredibly helpful resource to me I
have a big debt to repay.
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
