[xj40] Front subframe and engine mounts on '89 xj40

Hi Folks,

A while ago I replaced the rear subframe bushings and the results
were dramatic. Now I’m setting my sights on the front subframe
mounts, front subframe bushings, and the two engine mounts. I seek
advise!

My thoughts are to lower the front subframe while supporting the
engine from above (engine hoist - where to hold engine from ?).
I’ll have to remove the power steering rack to do this, and I’ll
have to remove all the subframe mounts & engine mounts as I go.
But will I have to remove the front springs? By looking at things
a lot, it kinda looks like the whole front subframe can be removed
while keeping the springs in place. Can this be?

I’ll press in two new front subframe bushings (the round bushings
at the aft section of the front subframe), and I’ll replace the
two ‘‘V’’ shaped front subframe mounts, and also the two round engine
mounts.

Actually, it seems like this will be pretty easy (yea right). Any
input here? Am I taking the right approach? Do I have to remove
the front springs? Will I be selling a parts car soon?

Many Thanks!–
SteveC '89 XJ40 200,000 miles
California, United States
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In reply to a message from Stevec sent Thu 1 Sep 2005:

Can’t answer your questions, but that’s my next step and I’m a
bit nervous since the whole suspension looks so heavy and
complicated. Please keep us posted with the progress…

Wal–
'94 4.0S
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Steve,

I last did this on my X300 but the procedure was very similar to when I’d
done it before on my 1989 XJ40. You don’t have to remove the front springs
to remove the subframe assembly. You will have to remove them if you plan on
replacing lower wishbone bushes.

Most important consideration is safe method of supporting front of the car
(axle stands under front jacking points is best option) AND supporting the
weight of the engine (front engine mounts are bolted to, and supported by
the crossmember through large circular metalastik bushes). The weight of the
engine can safely be supported either from above with an engine crane or
with a jack under the sump using a large piece of timber to spread the load.

The car doesn’t have to be jacked up very high. The front raised about 6
inches gives enough clearance to slide the subframe assembly out.

The removal sequence is:-

  1. slacken mounting bolts at rear of front subframe - 28 mm on X300 (30mm on
    XJ40?) hexagon with nyloc
  2. remove air intake & MAF sensor to access LH subframe bolts
  3. slacken shock absorber and front Vee mounting bolts (2 per side on Vee
    mountings) 17mm shocker top & 10mm Vee mount
  4. support car body on axle stands under front jacking points
  5. remove front wheels
  6. remove front brake calipers from carriers & hang on wires from
    (tie-down?) brackets
  7. disconnect speed sensors from brake carriers & hang next to calipers
  8. disconnect track rod ends
  9. disconnect & remove speed sensor wiring harness (2 cable ties - top and
    front of subframe)
  10. disconnect steering rack pipe clips but leave pipes connected
  11. disconnect steering rack pinch bolt
  12. disconnect steering rack from subframe - 4 nuts & bolts and separate
    from steering shaft
  13. support steering rack on suitable block of wood and move it as far back
    towards gearbox bellhousing as possible
  14. support engine - jack under sump with LARGE block of timber to spread
    the load or engine crane
  15. support front of subframe (timber again to spread load). Trolley jack is
    best
  16. remove front bumper cover undertray (X300 only)
  17. remove 2 rear suframe mounting bolts (slackened in step 1)
  18. remove 4 top Vee mounting bolts
  19. lower subframe on trolley jack and slide out from under car (have to
    compress shock absorbers to clear front bumper cover or remove them
  20. replace the Vee mounts (T40 torx bit on X300, M8 setscrews on XJ40)
    whilst the subframe is out.

It’s not difficult but the subframe is heavy and assistance is useful,
particularly when putting it back.

Graham Gardner

Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 06:58:15 +0200
From: “Stevec” stevec@rocketmail.com
Subject: [xj40] Front subframe and engine mounts on '89 xj40

Hi Folks,

A while ago I replaced the rear subframe bushings and the results
were dramatic. Now I’m setting my sights on the front subframe
mounts, front subframe bushings, and the two engine mounts. I seek
advise!

My thoughts are to lower the front subframe while supporting the
engine from above (engine hoist - where to hold engine from ?).
I’ll have to remove the power steering rack to do this, and I’ll
have to remove all the subframe mounts & engine mounts as I go.
But will I have to remove the front springs? By looking at things
a lot, it kinda looks like the whole front subframe can be removed
while keeping the springs in place. Can this be?

I’ll press in two new front subframe bushings (the round bushings
at the aft section of the front subframe), and I’ll replace the
two ‘‘V’’ shaped front subframe mounts, and also the two round engine
mounts.

Actually, it seems like this will be pretty easy (yea right). Any
input here? Am I taking the right approach? Do I have to remove
the front springs? Will I be selling a parts car soon?

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In reply to a message from Graham Gardner sent Thu 1 Sep 2005:

Hi Gents
I have just finished replacing my 90+ xj40 ‘‘rusty’’
subframe/suspension with an 88+ xj40, (bought this as the donar car)
NOTE: Here is my approach.

  1. Remove the mounting nuts at rear of front subframe - 29MM on a
    XJ40…which is a non-standard wrenche in most tool kits. Leave the
    bolts in place.
  2. remove air filter & MAF sensor to access and slacken elbow and
    move vetically to access LH ‘‘V mount’’ subframe bolts.
  3. support car body on axle stands under front jacking points, nice
    and high if removing subframe complete.
  4. support engine - jack under sump with LARGE block of timber to
    spread the load or engine crane, raise about an inch after removing
    the top engine mount nuts, without having to removing fan shroud.
  5. support front of subframe (timber again to spread load). Trolley
    jack is best.
  6. remove front wheels
  7. remove front brake calipers from carriers & hang on wires from
    (tie-down?) brackets
  8. disconnect speed sensors from brake carriers & hang next to
    calipers.
  9. Remove bottom shock bolt
  10. disconnect steering rack pinch bolt and almost pull off.
  11. I disconnected the BIG steering rack pipe (NUT) and
    disconnected the ‘‘loop’’ pipe that goes to the pump at the pump end.
    This was because I found this pipe into the rack slightly corroded
    and ‘‘glued’’ to its nut.
    As I was dropping the the whole lot, rack included its easier and
    this pipe comes out as part of the assy. So no need to disconnect
    track rod ends.
  12. support front of subframe (timber again to spread load).
    Trolley jack is the only way. I found that due to the balance I
    supported the subframe on the back 3rd.
    13 . remove 4 top Vee mounting bolts
  13. remove 2 rear suframe mounting bolts (slackened in step 1).
  14. lower subframe on trolley jack and slide out from under car.

Now its easy to remove engine mounts as the bottom bolt especially
on one side is hidden by the rack. After going through this I would
drop the subframe if doing the engine mounts or ‘‘V’’ mounts as you
have to do most of the above anyway, Only you don’t have to move
the subframe out from under the car so it does not have to be so
high. Also make sure you have good combination spanners, sockets
will not take the pace on the rest of the ‘‘rusty’’ suspension nuts.
steve–
stevec 90 XJ40 4.0 Daimler 123,000mls
chelmsford, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Steve455 sent Fri 2 Sep 2005:

Forgot to mention.

  1. The engine mounts locate into the metal engine bracket
    which are slotted, so although the engine mount threaded
    part is at 45degrees it comes out without problems when the
    subframe is lowered…bit tight getting it located when
    putting back though.
  2. While I used the earlier 88MY subframe/suspension assy
    the disk/hub assy is different from the 90+MY. Although the
    disk/calper/pads can be swapped for the later 90+ ones the
    hole on the hub for the ABS sensor is not there. Be warned.
  3. The ‘‘V’’ mounts on both my subframes were shot, the rubber
    comes ‘‘unglued’’ from the metal and the only thing holding
    the top and bottom metal halves together is a loose big
    metal loop. You will see what I mean when you see one.
    Effectively the subframe is moving about a bit. Now does
    your car wander??? I think I’ll always order and change
    these no matter what. steve–
    stevec 90 XJ40 4.0 Daimler 123,000mls
    chelmsford, United Kingdom
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