Hi John,
Perhaps someone with a 1990 4L can tell you exactly where the purge
control valve is, as I have an 89 that has a different valve that is
vacuum controlled rather than electrically controlled by the ECU. If
you are looking at a valve that has a vacuum line on its top, or no
electrical wiring, that is NOT the electrically-operated Purge Control
Valve I am referring to. My understanding is that the Purge Control
Valve is somewhere under the intake manifold. If you remove the air
cleaner and then trace the rubber hose coming from the canister
rearward toward the manifold, you should be able to find that valve,
and the manifold port upstream of the valve. It’s crowded under there,
so you might even have to remove the MAF and the hose up to the
throttle body to get a clear look at the purge lines and valve.
Probably the easiest way to test the system is to run the engine until
warm, put a pressure pump/gauge on the vapor line that runs from the
top/rear of the tank forward to the canister, and see that it releases
pressure when 2 PSIG pressure is attained, rather than allowing
pressure to exceed 2 PSIG. Then start the warm engine, and make sure
that there is no pressure allowed to build at the same vapor hose.
You didn’t say: Do you ever get a whoosh from opening the filler cap
with a warm engine running, or immediately after warm engine shutdown.
If you get NO whoosh under those circumstances, then the purge control
valve is operating properly.
Yes, if you had never noted the amount of “whoosh” that you get from a
properly operating system, it IS difficult to tell how much whoosh is
too much
Basically anything lasting less than 2 seconds, with NO tank sheet
metal deflection or “oil canning” is probably OK. Please do that
whoosh test with a warm engine running and let is know what you find.
Another possible failure mode of the canister system is for the vapor
line to get plugged, and you draw a vacuum on the tank as a fuel is
used from a full tank, which can result in preventing proper fuel pump
pressure and or collapsing of the tank. This would result in a very
violent whoosh when opening the filler cap after driving for an hour or
two after a fill-up.
A more critical cause of fuel vapor in the cabin could be a leaking
Fuel Injection hose or fitting on the left side of the engine,
particularly if your “Duckbill” is missing or damaged. Such fumes can
also be drawn into the air intake plenum at the base of the windshield.
I would carefully inspect for any such leaks around the engine, and
check for fuel odor under the bonnet.
George Balthrop, Clifton, VA USA
85 & 89 XJ-S Coupes; 89 XJ40 VDP-----Original Message-----
From: John S js4453@att.net
Describing the amount of whoosh is difficult. I think
after sitting the whoosh does last for more than a second
although I am not sure of the length of time. Sometimes if
I very loosely hold the cap while unscrewing it, the cap
will raise up after unscrewed. Now it isn’t flying off
into the air but it definitely lifts up. Is that 2 psig? I
don’t know.
Lately I have smelled gas fumes inside the cabin. Not
everyday, not all the time but sometimes.
Getting to that valve takes a bit of gymnastics. Not much
room for the arms up there. I get to it my loosening the
inner wheel well cover to the point it can move a bit,
remove the big round air duct - the one that allows air to
pass through the spoiler. Then I have access to the carbon
cannister.
Should I be able to hear that valve click when you turn the
key to the one position? Those valves are about
$130…ouch. In my old SIII it was mechanical not electric
and cost a few dollars.
Are we talking about the same valve? The one I am thinking
of is right at the carbon cannister and is electrically
controlled.
Is it at all possible without tearing the car apart to see
where it attaches to a port on the manifold?
–
The original message included these comments:
the intake manifold, in the hose line between the canister (located
forward of LF wheel) and a port in the intake manifold. That purge
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