For the archives I have uploaded photos of my recent work to
replace the O2 sensor. At 189K miles, replacement was long
overdue. I’m sure the performance of the old sensor has
been sub-par for a long time, but I’ve put off the job
because it looked like no fun. And after all, I had no O2
sensor-related trouble codes! But when the dreaded DTC44
erupted, it was time for action. I followed the
troubleshooting flowchart in the diagnostic manual on DVD
JHM1130 (thanks again, Bryan, for convincing me to buy it!),
and determined that the voltage from the sensor was not
swinging properly, not even when the engine was revved.
I was able to find the correct OE replacement Bosch sensor
by using the Bosch online parts finder:
The correct part for our '93 is Bosch 13313, which has a
longer (32 in.) wiring harness. It appears this is also the
part for '92 and '94 MY. I checked with all the standard
suppliers but found the best price from an ebay seller, $72
including shipping. I found far lower prices on so-called
‘‘universal’’ models, which come with connectors the user must
install on the harness, but I have read mixed reports on the
success of those. I also found lower prices on other
high-quality brand sensors such as Denso and NGK, but since
our OE sensor lasted 189K miles, I opted to spend a little
more for another Bosch.
After figuring out the best tool to use, the job was
surprisingly easy. It turned out to be a standard 22mm O2
sensor socket from AutoZone, price $10.49 U.S. I found many
online sources that refer to a ‘‘standard 7/8in. O2 sensor
socket,’’ but measuring our new sensor it was clear that it
was definitely 22mm, which is a little smaller than 7/8in.
So if you have a choice of sizes, be sure to get 22mm. My
crow’s foot O2 sensor socket is marked ‘‘22mm-7/8in.,’’ but it
A few cautions I didn’t include in the photo captions:
Don’t slice your hand open on the sharp, rusty edges of
the exhaust pipe heat shield. I came close.
When routing the sensor harness, locate it away from
sources of extreme heat, including the EGR transfer pipe
that runs behind the cylinder head. Use wire ties where
possible to hold the harness in place.
Take care not to kink the harness. Not only could this
lead to future electrical failure, but the sensor appears to
be of the type that draws ambient air down the wire
conductors through the tiny spaces between the conductor
strands, so a kink could inhibit the airflow.
Don B : '93 VDP Flamenco Red 189K : (ex-'88 Sovereign)
Franklin, TN, United States
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