[xj40] Oxygen O2 Lambda Sensor Replacement Photos

XJ40
1

For the archives I have uploaded photos of my recent work to
replace the O2 sensor. At 189K miles, replacement was long
overdue. I’m sure the performance of the old sensor has
been sub-par for a long time, but I’ve put off the job
because it looked like no fun. And after all, I had no O2
sensor-related trouble codes! But when the dreaded DTC44
erupted, it was time for action. I followed the
troubleshooting flowchart in the diagnostic manual on DVD
JHM1130 (thanks again, Bryan, for convincing me to buy it!),
and determined that the voltage from the sensor was not
swinging properly, not even when the engine was revved.

I was able to find the correct OE replacement Bosch sensor
by using the Bosch online parts finder:

http://www.boschautoparts.com/vehiclepartfinder/pages/vehiclepartfinder.aspx

The correct part for our '93 is Bosch 13313, which has a
longer (32 in.) wiring harness. It appears this is also the
part for '92 and '94 MY. I checked with all the standard
suppliers but found the best price from an ebay seller, $72
including shipping. I found far lower prices on so-called
‘‘universal’’ models, which come with connectors the user must
install on the harness, but I have read mixed reports on the
success of those. I also found lower prices on other
high-quality brand sensors such as Denso and NGK, but since
our OE sensor lasted 189K miles, I opted to spend a little
more for another Bosch.

After figuring out the best tool to use, the job was
surprisingly easy. It turned out to be a standard 22mm O2
sensor socket from AutoZone, price $10.49 U.S. I found many
online sources that refer to a ‘‘standard 7/8in. O2 sensor
socket,’’ but measuring our new sensor it was clear that it
was definitely 22mm, which is a little smaller than 7/8in.
So if you have a choice of sizes, be sure to get 22mm. My
crow’s foot O2 sensor socket is marked ‘‘22mm-7/8in.,’’ but it
measures 22mm.

A few cautions I didn’t include in the photo captions:

  1. Don’t slice your hand open on the sharp, rusty edges of
    the exhaust pipe heat shield. I came close.

  2. When routing the sensor harness, locate it away from
    sources of extreme heat, including the EGR transfer pipe
    that runs behind the cylinder head. Use wire ties where
    possible to hold the harness in place.

  3. Take care not to kink the harness. Not only could this
    lead to future electrical failure, but the sensor appears to
    be of the type that draws ambient air down the wire
    conductors through the tiny spaces between the conductor
    strands, so a kink could inhibit the airflow.

Cheers,

Don

http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1365433282
http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1365378120--
Don B : '93 VDP Flamenco Red 189K : (ex-'88 Sovereign)
Franklin, TN, United States
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2

In reply to a message from Don B sent Mon 8 Apr 2013:

Another superb ‘how to’ guide, and with excellent pictures.

Thanks for posting it!

David–
1992 Jaguar Sovereign 3.2 (1993 model) RHD 90.000 miles
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3

In reply to a message from Don B sent Mon 8 Apr 2013:

Don, thankyou for posting the excellent photos taken as you
replaced the oxy sensor in your car. they are most timely.
I raised my car of the ground today and really wondered how
i was going to get access to remove the sensor. I gave up in
disgust and was about to arrange for the garage to do the
job.
I will try and locate one of the special tools and give it a
go.

I noticed from your discussion that the 92 -94 models
require a long sensor lead length to reach along the
firewall and across behind the engine. I am interested in
your comments regarding kinking of the wires affecting the
air pathway along the wire to the sensor as this is the
reference for the sensor output.

On my RHD 90 model the wiring is such that the the sensor
lead to the ECM goes across the firewall and you only need (
maybe should be using ) a sensor with shorter lead length ie
Bosch 13032 ( old number 0 258 003 032 ) which is only 520mm
long . It is equivalent to Jaguar part DAC 6907 which is
what they quote for my car in their genuine parts list, but
at a premium price compared to NGK , Walker.

I have been using an NGK , but they list a part with long
leads , about 950mm. This means that extra length has been
taken up by folding the oxy sensor lead wires several times
and holding them in position with cable ties. I wonder if
that could be the source of the strange intermittent code 44
behaviour I get when I start with a warm engine. I will
rearrange the leads to remove any kinks and see if I can
detect any changes.
freshy -1990 sovereign–
The original message included these comments:

For the archives I have uploaded photos of my recent work to
replace the O2 sensor. At 189K miles, replacement was long
The correct part for our '93 is Bosch 13313, which has a
longer (32 in.) wiring harness. It appears this is also the
After figuring out the best tool to use, the job was
surprisingly easy. It turned out to be a standard 22mm O2
sensor socket from AutoZone, price $10.49 U.S. I found many
3. Take care not to kink the harness. Not only could this
lead to future electrical failure, but the sensor appears to
be of the type that draws ambient air down the wire
conductors through the tiny spaces between the conductor

–
freshy-xj40
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4

In reply to a message from freshy sent Tue 9 Apr 2013:

When mine needed to be replaced I didn’t try and gave it to
my mech. He allows me to buy the part and charges an hourly
rate which, at that time was $45 to install. I was glad I
did because it was a bear to break loose. He had to use the
hot wrench (torch) to get it to break loose.

I stood there staying talking with him while he did it.

Last fall I was helping a friend replace one on his SUV and
man!!! That thing took us forever to get off. Heat busted
knuckles, etc. and hours of time to get it off.

Looks like Don’s came off without much trouble.

BTW thanks for the pics Don, I enjoy seeing them and they
will no doubt come in handy for other owners. Good job!–
The original message included these comments:

I raised my car of the ground today and really wondered how
disgust and was about to arrange for the garage to do the

–
John 90 XJ40
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5

In reply to a message from freshy sent Tue 9 Apr 2013:

Hi freshy!

Yes, the online Bosch parts finder does show 13032 as the
correct, shorter-lead sensor for the 1991 and earlier cars.
Curiously, the Jaguar parts list shows four different
sensor part numbers for the '88 to '92 MYs, but the Bosch
parts finder shows that Bosch 13032 will fit all XJ40s from
'88 to 91, and that 13313 fits all cars '92 to '94. It
appears the only difference is the length of the lead, so
buyers should check their cars before ordering.

It is possible that the long lead is the source of your
DTC44, since the ECM was programmed for a sensor with the
shorter lead and the small but real additional resistance of
the longer lead could possibly cause the sensor’s reported
voltage to fall below range. But since it only happens when
the engine is warm, I wonder if it might have something to
do with the sensor body-to-exhaust pipe ground connection
weakening when the pipe is hot/expanded? It might be worth
(carefully) measuring the resistance between the sensor body
and engine ground while cold and hot to see if there is a
difference. If so, you could try removing the sensor,
cleaning the pipe threads and top surface with a battery
terminal brush, carefully cleaning the sensor threads,
reapplying anti-seize and then tightening the sensor to the
proper torque.

As you mention, it could also have something to do with the
folds in the over-long lead and the air passages in the lead
becoming constricted somehow when the engine is warm and the
lead expands/changes its position. I didn’t know anything
about oxygen sensors drawing ambient air down their wires
until I began studying the Bosch online installation
instructions and learned that some sensors have a vent on
top, others draw air down their wires. This is the reason
the instructions for the ‘‘universal’’ sensors caution against
soldering the wires when the connectors are fitted - the
solder would fill the spaces between the wire strands and
obstruct air flow. Since there is no visible vent on the
upper section of the sensor on our Jag, I assume it is the
type that draws air down the wires.

You might also clean the ground terminal on the intake
manifold stud at cylinder #1 (clean the one at #2 while
you’re at it) and also the stud on the bulkhead/firewall
right behind the cylinder head. I’ve just been through most
of my grounds and battery power studs again as part of
tracking down my DTC44 and a long-recurring DTC89. I’ll
post some photos of the ground and battery power stud
cleaning when I get a chance. For now it looks as though my
cleaning has cleared the DTC89 (as it has in the past).

Let us know what you figure out!

Cheers,

Don–
The original message included these comments:

On my RHD 90 model the wiring is such that the the sensor
lead to the ECM goes across the firewall and you only need (
maybe should be using ) a sensor with shorter lead length ie
Bosch 13032 ( old number 0 258 003 032 ) which is only 520mm
long . It is equivalent to Jaguar part DAC 6907 which is
what they quote for my car in their genuine parts list, but
at a premium price compared to NGK , Walker.
I have been using an NGK , but they list a part with long
leads , about 950mm. This means that extra length has been
taken up by folding the oxy sensor lead wires several times
and holding them in position with cable ties. I wonder if

–
Don B : '93 VDP Flamenco Red 189K : (ex-'88 Sovereign)
Franklin, TN, United States
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6

In reply to a message from John S sent Tue 9 Apr 2013:

I think the key is to get the exhaust warmed up good. I
probably ran the engine for 5 minutes or more before I tried
to loosen the sensor. It still took a bit of force, but
once it popped loose, it was relatively easy to twist out.–
The original message included these comments:

rate which, at that time was $45 to install. I was glad I
did because it was a bear to break loose. He had to use the
hot wrench (torch) to get it to break loose.
I stood there staying talking with him while he did it.
Last fall I was helping a friend replace one on his SUV and
man!!! That thing took us forever to get off. Heat busted
knuckles, etc. and hours of time to get it off.

–
Don B : '93 VDP Flamenco Red 189K : (ex-'88 Sovereign)
Franklin, TN, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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7

In reply to a message from Don B sent Mon 8 Apr 2013:

Thanks to Don’s post I was able replace the o2 sensor on my
94 VDP from the engine compartment - a bit of a struggle
though as it was in there pretty tight!

I first had a go with an o2 socket like the one in the pics,
but mine had a pretty wide slot and I think it wasn’t a cast
metal socket because when we reefed on it, the slot spread
and ended up slipping. I went back to the parts store and
bought a short (1’’ long) cast crowsfoot socket that had a
much smaller slot and even though there was only enough room
to move the sensor a few degrees before having to remove the
socket and refit, eventually I got it out.

The new Bosch part went right in, came with anti-sieze and
once I got it started, buttoned up pretty easily.

Thanks again Don, your method worked great!–
The original message included these comments:

After figuring out the best tool to use, the job was
surprisingly easy. It turned out to be a standard 22mm O2
sensor socket from AutoZone, price $10.49 U.S. I found many
online sources that refer to a ‘‘standard 7/8in. O2 sensor
socket,’’ but measuring our new sensor it was clear that it
was definitely 22mm, which is a little smaller than 7/8in.
So if you have a choice of sizes, be sure to get 22mm. My
crow’s foot O2 sensor socket is marked ‘‘22mm-7/8in.,’’ but it
measures 22mm.

–
Larry '94 VDP VIN 701729
Victoria BC, Canada
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8

In reply to a message from abercanadian sent Mon 10 Jun 2013:

Larry,

Congratulations on replacing your O2 sensor! I’m amazed
that you were able to do it with a crow’s foot, because I
couldn’t figure any way to make mine work, even after
grinding a bevel on the leading edge to help it reach deeper
into the heat shield recess. On my car, once I got the
crow’s foot onto the sensor, there was zero clearance to
rotate the wrench even a couple of degrees. Now we know at
least two ways to do it, depending on the car and the type
of O2 socket available.

Great job!

Don–
The original message included these comments:

I first had a go with an o2 socket like the one in the pics,
but mine had a pretty wide slot and I think it wasn’t a cast
metal socket because when we reefed on it, the slot spread
and ended up slipping. I went back to the parts store and
bought a short (1’’ long) cast crowsfoot socket that had a
much smaller slot and even though there was only enough room
to move the sensor a few degrees before having to remove the
socket and refit, eventually I got it out.

–
Don B : '93 VDP Flamenco Red 191K : (ex-'88 Sovereign)
Franklin, TN, United States
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9

I am trying to replace the oxygen sensor at 117000 miles. It just won’t loosen. I guess I have to give it a torch.

10

Otto …

Before you turn to the smokey wrench which may be difficult to position try spraying the sensor with a type of penetrant like liquid wrench, Loctite, and WD 40 makes. Spray it on and get the exhaust nice and hot. Then give it time to do it’s thing. Do this several times and I’m sure it will come loose.

One word of caution, make sure you cover the sensor and the wires with tape before you spray it on then remove the tape. The sensor actually sucks in ambient air through the top of the sensor or sometimes through the wires themselves (depending on the make of sensor) to use in determining the ambient air. The penetrant may interfere with that if sprayed directly on.

11

Thanks for the tips, Dennis!
I sprayed WD 40. Let us see what happens.
I believe the current sensor is original since it is Bosch. So, it is 31 years old.

By the way, I drove 200 km (124 miles) yesterday and the computer indicated that the average fuel consumption was 9.8 liters per 100 kilometers (24.00 U.S. MPG). The average driving speed was around 110 km/h (68 mph). Not bad fuel consumption I would say.

12

Otto …

Regular WD40 won’t work you need a rust penetrant …
Screen Shot 2020-08-24 at 3.41.29 AM

Remember the trick is to give the penetrant lots of time to work.

13

I straggled with the same problem last week. Tried all kind of penetrating oils, heated, nothing helped. Finally I cut off the pipe with a lambda sensor and welded a new pipe.
Probably also had the original sensor 29 years :slight_smile:

14

I finally succeeded in this task. I cut off the old sensor body so that I could push a standard 22 mm socket to the base of the sensor. The base of the sensor had rounded off already a bit since I had first tried to loosen it with a special oxygen sensor key. When I used the standard 22 mm socket I noticed that the base rounded off a bit more. Then I tried to hit a 21 mm 12 point socket to the base, but due to limited space I could not hit it in properly. However, I thought that probably the hitting may have loosened the sensor base a little. So, I tried again with the standard 22 mm socket and then I finally could remove the sensor base. I screwed the new sensor in place, and now I am happy that the job is done!

15

Hi Otto,

Congratulations on successfully replacing the sensor! Sounds like it was no fun at all, but great job!

Cheers,

Don

16

Otto ,

Did your new sensor come with anti seize already on the threads?

If not I would suggest you pull the sensor and apply some copper anti seize. Since your O2 sensor only has 3 wires that means the ground is accomplished through the threads and copper anti seize is electrically conductive,

17

Thanks, Don :grinning:!

Dennis, yes, the new NGK sensor had anti seize on the threads.