Michael - if you haven’t already done so try cleaning all of the ground points you can get to. Several years ago Don B posted several groups of photos and additional info in the photo album on the old Jag lovers site. [Excellent job, Don!] Here are links:
Thanks Mike. I will look at them tomorrow.
Checked TPS, but initial MAF testing seemed incorrect voltages. Will check grounds anyway. Also need to check fuel pressure.
Well thanks for all your tips. It turned out to be the “Throttle Plate clearance” issue. Supposed to be 2 Thou clearance. Mine was about 20 thou. So readjusted and checked TPS voltage which was still within tolerance and now no more hunting or stalling when in Drive or Reverse or lights on and off.
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After driving the car up and dwon the driveway the brakes are still not working well at all. Very spongy. Cheked for caliper leaks. None. Ckecked master cylinder and that where the leak is. So after using the brakes the Master cylinder was faulty. It did not show up because the car was standing for so long. Ordered the seal kit and now I await the parts.
So the Wiring diagram say that the 2 Pins from the “Pad Sensors” end up on Connector RB54 (36way Black connector) Pins 2 and 3. The wires are Orange/Brown and Orange/Slate.
Does anyone know how the conectors are numbered? I suppose i can search for the wire colours but I searched the Internet, this forum and the JHDT CD I have for the connector numbering sequence but cannot fnd it.
I have Jaguar publication S6593, the Electrical Guide XJ6 Sedan Range 1993 (I know this is different from your 1989), and the brake pad sensors signals go to the instrument pack via LB25, a 48-way connector. The two wire colors are the same as you describe so I would guess RB54 iin your car connects to the instrument pack as well.
Yes, sorry, this is a known issue that resulted from the migration from the old jag-lovers.org site to the the new/current jag-lovers.com site. The images musr somehow be converted which is apparently a manual process, one with which the admins (all of whom should be considered heroes, in my opinion) have asked for volunteer help. Note to self: check into this…anyway, those images not yet converted can’t be displayed full size.
And I’ll echo your post, Mike - just adding that DonB’s photo archive is the most complete pictorial XJ40 archive ever, as Don basically photographed and described just about every job possible.
Unfortunately, the steam sort of petered out of the archival restoration process with the passing of our main site admin Andrew_Waugh a few years back.
Eratic Idling NOT SOLVED.
False fix. I started the car up again this morning and the eratic idling came back. Not as bad but still hunting. Vacuum was checked at 15" . I have decided to remove the Intake Manifold to check for gasket leaks and hose condition. I do not believe it is an electronic fault. I have a similar issue on another car and chased an electronic fault when all it was was a Intake gasket.
Keep you all updated as to what I find.
All grounds were checked and were cleaned up. before i started the engine as above.
Low Pad Warning Update
The “Low Pad Warning” came up again then when out. It seems I have a loose connection somewhere in the “Pad Sensor” wiring.
I hate intermittent faults.
Yes it does Mike.
I shorted the two wires at the connector and the warning went away permanently until the next dat. It re-appeared and then when away so I believe it its a connector wiring issue or the connection to the the “Instrument Pack Assembly”. Need to investigate further.
Try disconnecting the battery and do a hard reset to see if that makes any difference to your idle. On re-starting the idle will be high and erratic but should calm down in a minute or two as the ECU re-learns the new settings.
Sometimes, even after repairing something like a vacuum leak or replacing/cleaning a component, the ECU will retain the old “compensated” settings until the ECU is rebooted. I would also re-plug all the intake sensors and MAF before restarting the engine.
Just to let you know that the restoration has come to a halt as the parts I need are delayed due to Postal delays. Waiting on intake manifold and actuator motors.
Master Cylinder rebuild
So I tried to dismantle the MC. The primary piston needed a few taps to remove it.
To remove the secondary piston a hardened steel pin needs to be removed with a magnet while pushing the piston in. The pin would only move a fraction in and out but I could not remove it. After some consultation with an expert I was told that the pin is just stuck. Keep moving it and eventually it will come out. 2 days and 1hr of jiggling it finally came out.
See pictures.
