FUEL FILLER COVER SOLENOID
I removed the solenoid unit and the solenoid. Worked on the bench but the switching is unreliable. It would sometimes works and sometimes locks in and other times would lock on and then off when pressed again.
I had to ground one wire to get the solenoid to work. If someone wants to know the wiring details just ask. The online Haynes manual wiring does not match mine.
I will need to trace what is stopping the gnd signal getting to the unit when all the doors are unlocked. This signal does not appear at the unit so I need to find to the source of this ground.
Where does this gnd signal come from? Somewhere in the lock circuit I suspect.
I will attempt to create the solenoid circuit myself. I now some electronic s so I may succeed. I need to get that lock signal for it to work as is is meant to.
Need wiring cct for Fuel Filler Cover Relay.
I have looked for the wiring diagram for my 1988 XJ6 but cannot find a complete cct diagram which includes the fuel filler cover relay. Anyone have one or know where I can get one? I will entertain buying the factory manual but indeed to be sure if is for my car.
Established in 1983, The Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust is a registered charitable Trust. Our Charity registration number is: 286863.
Our purpose is to establish, maintain and promote for the benefit of the nation, the permanent preservation of historic archives, artefacts and motor vehicles manufactured and sold by Jaguar Cars Ltd. (now renamed Jaguar Land Rover Ltd.) and its predecessor companies under the marque names of Swallow, SS, Jaguar, Daimler and Lanchester, where such vehicles are of actual potential historic, scientific importance and education value.
Our mission is:
**“To be the active custodians of Jaguar’s history, its vehicles and its archives, working alongside Jaguar Land Rover to share and promote that history for posterity.”
Window regulator
I took the front passenger side window regulator out and opened the gearing up and found hard lumps of grease and some rust. Also the rubber mounts for te regulator were broken which allowed the regulator to move around. I replaced them with solid studs. I cleaned all the old grease and as much rust as possible. Regressed and te windows works much faster.
I will do all the other windows also while I wait for parts.
Michael thank you for documenting all the work you are doing during your restoration project. Along with providing a lot of good tips and information you are (hopefully) inspiring us procrastinators to undertake needed work on our cars. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Mike.
I love the fact that forum members are so helpful. I was a technology teacher for 11 years and left because these subjects are frowned upon because the academics deemed these subjects too easy. I often reflect that it takes a different intelligence to work on mechanical things. I am sure these academics would find what we do very difficult.
FUEL FILLER COVER SOLENOID UPDATE
I got around to making a replacement cct for the Filler cover/flap solenoid using parts I had on hand. I placed it in a small plastic box as I was not sure the circuit would last if I potted it in resin. I stuck the box to the outside on the solenoid hosing.
Above left is the Solenoid in its housing which I wired to my cct next to it and on the right is the resin I chiseled off to expose the cct board with the membrane switch (below.)
The two wires you see are the connections to the membrane switch which triggers my cct.
BOOT LOCK ISSUE
I have found another issue though. It seems the boot lock is not the right one. The one I have needs to turn 180°. The user manual says it should turn 90° left and right from vertical.
Can anyone confirm this? I know the front passenger and drivers key lock work this way. Update
After reading the Handbook that came with the car it seems I understood wrong. The key lock works correctly. I need to investigate the relays not working or the actuator.
BOOT LOCK UPDATE
The Boot Lock/Unlock works after I pulled apart the actuator and cleaned and greased it. it was stuck together with plastic washers glued onto shafts. I cut the plastic washers with a knife and then glued it back together.
But there is a Green three way connector with nothing to plug it into. I found a post which suggests that an 89 Soveriegn with BOOT OPENING that was removed and put in an XJ40. I was wondering if my XJ40 has all the necessary wiring also and the connector I have goes into the BOOT OPENING actuator which is missing obviously. Can someone confirm my theory?
Windscreen wiper arm slipping on shaft
The wiper arm splines were ground off on the arm so I decided to make an aluminium bush. I had to ream out the arm as the bush would make the hole too small. I then glued the bush on so it would not slip. All good.
Front door lock actuators repair
Well think I found the abuse of the filler solenoid lockout issue. Both front door lock actuators are not working. Thanks to this post [xj40] Testing a door lock actuator motor? I realised that this is the case.
I opened the actuator and the motor brushes had come off. Instead of trying to make a replacement I looked for a replacement motor. Thanks to Google I found the replacement motor does exist from China. It is a Mabuchi fc-280sc dc 12v motor.
When I dismantled the motor the problem was that one of the comutator brushes was missing so was not touching the commutator. (gap). The ultra small (1mm square and 0.5mm thick) carbon brush could not be found. So i purchased 2 of these motors as I suspect the other actuator has the same issue. I would rather replace both motors anyway.
Below are some detailed pictures of the dismantled unit ready for replacement motor.
Raidator replaced
So I found a leak in the Rad and a pipe leading to the expanion tank was blocke on the rad and the pipe leading to it blocke up wit a bolt so
I purchased a new steel rad and flushed the cooling system.
Eratic Idling
Upon starting and moving the car I noticed the idling was erratic but got better as the engine warmed up.
I have already replaced the “Idle speed control valve” and cleaned the throttle body near the throttle plate.
I will now check the “Throttle Position Sensor” and then the inlet manifold for any leaks. If these does not prove faulty then I will test fuel pressure or simply replace the Fuel Pump as i already have one.
Brake Update
Accumulator arrived and installed. All Brake Warnings gone.
All Calipers have been cleaned and new seals installed. New Discs fitted.
Brakes are bled. Alll good now. Need to test drive it after the erratic idling issue is sorted.
