Could someone point me to a thread, or post instructions on the
steps to changing out the barrel on the door locks. From original
broken handle to replacement used handle.
I assume (bad word) that the barrels are not unique to the
driver/passenger side.
Gary–
Gary K '92 XJS Convertible 5.3 '94 XJ40 '97 X300 VDP
Greenville, SC, United States
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In reply to a message from Geekay sent Mon 22 Feb 2016:
Gary - I have sent you off-list Jaguar service bulletin 76-
64, Tibbe Door Locks, that should be of help.–
The original message included these comments:
Could someone point me to a thread, or post instructions on the
steps to changing out the barrel on the door locks. From original
broken handle to replacement used handle.
Gary K '92 XJS Convertible 5.3 '94 XJ40 '97 X300 VDP
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In reply to a message from Mike Stone sent Mon 22 Feb 2016:
Thanks Mike…great start. I’d like to find a repair kit for the
drivers side, but I guess that’s not going to be easy. The
alternative seems to be to read the key barrel from the
replacement lock and get a new key off Ebay to match it.On the
passenger door I can transfer the old barrel.
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In reply to a message from Geekay sent Mon 22 Feb 2016:
I should have said - get a key blank and have it cut. But question
is - where and is that cost effective? If I can find a repair kit
or source some old barrels I can rebuild the innards. Ideas?
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In reply to a message from Geekay sent Mon 22 Feb 2016:
What’s wrong with your original handle? I repaired one of
my broken handles using MuggyWeld low temperature solder and
it’s holding up well. I posted photos of the procedure I
used in my albums.
I haven’t broken a front door handle yet, so I can’t comment
on the lock barrels, but I’ve done many front handles on the
early cars. The barrel is held in with a spring circlip.
Use the inserted key as a handle (and to retain all the
little tumblers). I suspect the Tibbe locks are similar.–
The original message included these comments:
Thanks Mike…great start. I’d like to find a repair kit for the
drivers side, but I guess that’s not going to be easy. The
alternative seems to be to read the key barrel from the
replacement lock and get a new key off Ebay to match it.On the
passenger door I can transfer the old barrel.
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In reply to a message from Jaguarpete sent Tue 23 Feb 2016:
Exactly! I swapped out a tibbe system lock barrel when my
passenger side handle bit the dust, no problem, just take
the circlip off to replace the tumblers, just be careful
keep them in the right order
Larry–
The original message included these comments:
I haven’t broken a front door handle yet, so I can’t comment
on the lock barrels, but I’ve done many front handles on the
early cars. The barrel is held in with a spring circlip.
Use the inserted key as a handle (and to retain all the
little tumblers). I suspect the Tibbe locks are similar.
Pete Peterson 70E(193K) XJ40s(88-270K,89-97K, 94-122K)
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In reply to a message from abercanadian sent Tue 23 Feb 2016:
Pete - I’ll check out your photo album on repair. Its the same
break that everyone seems to get.
Larry: When you remove the circlip (with the key in) and start
removing the barrel - isn’t there a spring inside that makes the
innards spring out? I believe with the pdf and knowing the 8 digit
pattern I could rebuild the innards. I’d just like to know what to
expect when I remove the circlip and start pulling the barrel out.
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In reply to a message from Geekay sent Thu 25 Feb 2016:
Gary - This was the first thing I had to do on my car when I
got it - so some time ago and memory etc etc …however
I don’t recall any spring flying anywhere …best to check
though if you have the instructions handy …also pretty sure
I didn’t use the key when I did the swap but there again I
was new to the car and pretty much fumbled through the job.
Would have been nice to have a pdf to refer to though.
good luck
Larry–
The original message included these comments:
Larry: When you remove the circlip (with the key in) and start
removing the barrel - isn’t there a spring inside that makes the
innards spring out? I believe with the pdf and knowing the 8 digit
pattern I could rebuild the innards. I’d just like to know what to
expect when I remove the circlip and start pulling the barrel out.
Gary
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In reply to a message from abercanadian sent Thu 25 Feb 2016:
Larry - you’re correct, no spring. The Tibbe comprises 8 marked
and machined ‘‘washers’’ (for the sake of a better term). There
is a spacer between each one.
The last spacer (on the key side of the barrel), is slightly
spring loaded to apply a little tension in the barrel. Removing
the lock is done by removing the circlip and then pushing the
barrel out gently using the key, while using a small
screwdriver applied to the front of the barrel to keep the
‘‘innards’’ inside the barrel. If the ‘‘innards’’ come out they can
be re-inserted as long as you know the sequence.
Transfer of the old lock barrel to the new handle is a reverse
of the process.
The lock barrels are different for right and left side and bear
the letters ‘‘R’’ or L’’ on the end to signify which side they
fit.
I have taken a sequence of photos and will upload in a few
days.
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In reply to a message from Geekay sent Mon 22 Feb 2016:
The Jaguar issued TSB 76-64 is available on the internet
The file is larger than necessary because I first copied
jpg. pics on a flatbed scanner to Microsoft Word and THEN
converted to .pdf to get all pages on one document.
It was done YEARS AGO and I did not have a full version of
Adobe Acrobat.
I should re-do the document to better fit the pages and
reduce the file size. SOMEDAY???
I keep a box full of broken handles for parts as the service
kit is probably NLA from Jaguar. Any broken handles have
enough discs to start a collection for matching KEYS TO
LOCKS!!! There are only 3 cuts to the early keys
(later keys have 4 cuts).
Lay out a clean rag on a work bench and watch for all the
parts and where they go. Try the key and make sure it fits
correctly.
bob gaufffrom my paper bulletin that I copied and converted to .pdf.
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In reply to a message from motorcarman sent Sun 6 Mar 2016:
Bob - Mike Stone referenced the TSB earlier in the thread and the
pdf is readily available on the internet. However you really have
to take a barrel and parts out in order to establish what we both
have summarized.
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