So it was leaking from this skinny hose that runs from the airbox/Carburetor to the charcoal canister.
Well i believe i found my issue! Lol ive never touched a carburetor before but i guess now i have to learn how to rebuild 2 of them. lol i was wondering why my airbox smelled like gas.
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Well i believe i found my issue! Lol ive never touched a carburetor before but i guess now i have to learn how to rebuild 2 of them.
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Indeed, Steven - but the canister is not necessary for running the engine. only for passing emission checks. Disconnect the canister hose at the engine - but you may leave the ‘tank’ hoses connected at the canister - they are essential for tank venting.
This will remove a distraction and you can concentrate on actual carb issues - to get the engine running. When sorted you can assess the canister/tank venting at later leisure. Which ios what we should have advised initially…
The carbs may only need new needle valves, and or float level adjustments to get the engine running - a full overhaul may be beneficial, but not necessarily vital…
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As advised by Frank Andresen, buy a rebuild kit and rebuild them.
SU carburettors are simplicity itself, but do have a habit of leaking fuel from the the seals between the jet and float bowl.
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Thanks again everyone. Which would you guys say is better to shop on Moss motors or SNG?
…Whatever, Steven, but I still advise you to acquires some familiarity with the carbs and car - a workshop manual is on the cards. The present issue may not be the only one you will encounter.
Buying without some clues may be an expensive course - and we are here…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
It depends where you are. As much as I would like to buy more ex the USA, the postage is usually prohibitive. For me the UK is better. You might be better off in the the USA - having both Moss and SNG onshore.
For noting: you have Zenith Stromberg carbs, which are similar to SU’s, and provided to your market and not mine (for emissions reasons, I expect). As David says get a workshop manual and a parts book. Both available as e books for not much money. Perhaps try isolating one pump and one tank and work with that to start with? Best of luck.
PS. A few of us have Series 1 cars. They are an absolute delight when running well! Paul.
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Amazon also has a reprint which I like to keep around, it can get dirty and doesn’t run out of battery or turn off on you. The Strombergs are similar in operation but have some emissions add-ons. Keep them separate, dismantle one at a time, walk away when frustrated, all very simple. SU are the same principle and very logical. Make sure the needle is centered and the piston falls smoothly. Again, do not mix&match and take pictures of the process.
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On the seconed one im already running into a problem. The float bracket has snapped. Anyone know where i can find a new one?
At worst you can fabricate a new one, Steven…
Never seen carbs in that state, but it explains all of your symptoms! Keep a pictorial record while you dismantle and clean up the mess, of course…
There are some observable damage - and more may be evident during the clean-up process. You may start looking around for a replacement carb as well…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Yea it almost has me wanting to dig deeper down the white rabbit hole. To see how far that nasty stuff got. 
I don’t want to have to rebuild the engine but if I have to it’ll be after I move.
Perhaps drain the tanks and put a boroscope down into the filler and see what you have there? I expect you know that there are drain plugs at the bottom - there’s a through hole on the mudguard.
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Ehhh lol I’m just replacing both tanks. Thank you though
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There is no indication that your carb problem is a result of engine state - or vice versa…
The best course of action then is to run a compression test, Steven - if OK the engine likely is too…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Oh dear! You don’t know what expensive really is! We pay the equivalent of $8.40 per US gallon!
Lol ok that’s bad, but still I’m not wasting money
Ok so news update with the Jag. I got it to stop dumping fuel to the ground when i rebuilt both carbs. Now its getting all clean fuel. I also replaced & gapped the ignition points and coil. So it started and ran for 1 minute and then shut off with a fire underneath the left side of the engine bay. Im pleased to have the thing running but now i have to find out why the fire happened. I believe its because the metal radiator fan hits the ac compressor which causes a spark. Also there was previously fuel leaking onto the dead leaves underneath.
Sorry, but a spark does not cause a fire, unless there is a combustible … fuel springs to mind, as it ignites easier than oil residues. So you better double check your fuel lines … maybe you better go outside and keep an extinguisher handy;-)
Good luck
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)