Yes indeed. The video explains it very well.
I managed to get the hoses out without hacking the little discs though.
Depends… Jaguar was issuing BarsLeak in every coolant change so it could be mighty cloged up
But get the engine running first.
They sure look sorry…
Calipers don’t wear, you could still replace just the joints and pistons, but it’s up to you.
Hope your bearings are still ok. Easy to check when you take the discs out.
Also check the underside of your stub axle for wear, sometimes the inner race of the bearing tends to run on the axle and after a while there is play.
Did you download Kirby’s book? It’s all in there.
Keep us posted.
I am ashamed to say that I bought it and had various other Jags as everyday cars and left this poor soul parked outside. I always had the intention of sorting it out, ‘next week’; next month; next year, but that never came around. I guess she’s biting me on the bum for my neglect!
Glad to hear you’ve got the engine to turn over.So it was an electrical issue? It’s not easy to manually turn over an Xjs V12 that’s not been touched for so long.you spoke to me.A while ago by phone I think? Good luck hope it starts and runs ok!
Yes I did. Thanks for your time. It was the water pump pulley that was seized and prevented me from manually turning the engine. When I cut the belt off, it turned.
Hi Junior
That’s good news. I’m sorry I didn’t get back to you ref the guy I thought might have an engine. He’s been stuck away for ages in Middlesbrough his father had Covid at 90 and survived!
I have been inundated with 9-5 work so have been working slowly but surely on starting the engine.
I needed to change the seized water pump so whilst doing that, I changed all belts.
I then decided to go the electric fan route so am in the process of figuring out the configuration. I have seen some posts and am trying to understand best place to put sensor and temperature for fan to kick in. They are SPAL fans 16” and 10” and they have a kit the bolt them directly to fan (does anyone see a problem with doing this?):
I got the new plugs in, new distributor cap, leads and rotar. I also cleaned out a very very dirty swirl tank and filter.
There was no fuel going to the engine so tested the fuel relay which was faulty. I changed the relay and poured 30L unleaded in and tried to start the engine. I turned over and then ran for a couple of seconds with easy start sprayed into air intakes (see video)
I am guessing that the fuel is not getting to the injectors. I had bought an injector repair kit and had that on the ‘to do’ list to change all hoses, micro filters, and rubbers etc in injector ring so will do this job now and try again.
So, my fuel pump works, I have a very clean swirl tank and filter, new fuel filter, clean fuel coming to the fuel injector ring. I will have effectively a new injector rail (next on the to do list) so fingers crossed it works, if not then maybe electrics…
I’d be very cautious of bolting the fan through the radiator, as vibrations wil risk damaging the rad
any chance of using the old mecanical fan shroud to hold the fan ?
It could lep to channel the air flow, too
from the video, the engine strats shortly when you spray some start fluid : so ignition is okish, and the fuel is missing
just noticed you havn’t checked the injectors yet
that’s the first point as they clog / stick and would need a clean if the fuel has probably left some residues
I would definitely not use the bolt through radiator technique, not even for the temperature sensor, which is also popular for after-market fan additions. When I did my electric conversion, the fan was a snug fit in the original cowl and it was easy to fabricate a couple of cross braces (simple aluminium U channel) that bolted to the fan bracket, and attach them at the ends to the cowl.
Thank you for that.
It is absolutely possible for me to use shroud so I will. I originally had that in mind and then was swayed off course by others putting in their opinions. I will weld a bracket to shroud and attach fan with the rubber washers etc. one question: should I ensure that the fan ends up fitting snug up against the radiator?
Thank you for tip on injector possibly being clogged up. I have this kit:
I have never done this before. Will I have to clean injectors and then do changes of filters etc or do I just do changes of filters etc and that’s it? If so, how do I clean injectors and with what?
a new filter won’t release a clogged tip
you need to first clean the injectors, using an ultrasonic cleaner
then change the filters, so the interior stays clean
use some gasoil for the bath, no water, as this can corrode the injectors internals
Thank you for these responses. Sadly, I only just read the two last posts as I got bogged down in removing the injector ring and then cleaning it up and then dismantling and reassembling each injector. So I did not do the petrol bath which I am really sad about. However, I took some pictures of the old filters and the general state of the injectors:
Well, the engine starts and runs on its own, a big step forward.
Nevertheless, it runs on very few cylinders.
Assuming you have changed your fuel filter, put new gas in the tank, made sure ignition is working ok on all cylinders, and by the look of the state of your injectors, I think they have to be properly checked and cleaned.
If you take the whole assembly out, rails with injectors attached, and manage to fill them with injector cleaner and leave them overnight it could possibly work, but it could also be just a waste of time.
SD_Faircloth is the man you need.
If you hear them click it’s a good sign. This doesn’t mean that they are not leaking, are clogged, or that the spray pattern and flow are correct.
Not until you have the engine working on all cylinders.
I checked all injector resistance and they came out at 3 ohms. I then checked power to the injector cables and they all came out at 11.85v
I took a chance and removed the rail in the hope of cleaning the injectors without disconnecting them from the rail (having just fit new micro fibers, caps, rubbers and hoses).
I watched a few YouTube videos and set up a pressurized garden sprayer And connected it to the rail:
All injectors were not squiring and I kept activating the tester and after about 30-40 seconds (see footage at 40 seconds), the injector began squirting: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AjY45lSF4ogj5EDwsGOWGQSA01Rk
When I did this process with A1 it eventually squirted and then shut. However, was leaking. I took at probe and gently pushed the needle in a few times and this solved the problem and it stopped leaking.
I then tested all 12 injectors by running them into a clear bottle. I could not check the precise flow etc but I just checked that they were consistently squirting with roughly the same flow a spray pattern (which they were): https://1drv.ms/v/s!AjY45lSF4ogj5EEqv32N91f2UHv8
Fluid color after running through clean injectors:
That did tickle me!
