Hi
I have overdrive problems (again). I think I may have to remove the
unit from the car. Can anyone tell me whether this entails removing
the engine/gearbox? Please say it doesn’t!!
Regards
Richard–
Richard Smith
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Richard
Before you decided to remove the overdrive make sure you trouble shoot
all of the adjustments and removable parts. What type of problems are
you having? Many of us have been through this and may be able to help.
Skip Smith
-SS-
Richard Smith wrote:>Hi
I have overdrive problems (again). I think I may have to remove the
unit from the car. Can anyone tell me whether this entails removing
the engine/gearbox? Please say it doesn’t!!
RegardsRichard
Richard Smith
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Skip Smith sent Mon 17 May 2004:
Hi Skip
Thanks for your reply. The problem relates to the overdrive not
engaging. The solenoid is working OK & the setting lever lines up
in the right place. There’s also plenty of oil in the gearbox. My
next plan was to check the drain filter is clean. After that things
start to go beyond my knowledge, so I was bracing myself for the
worst.
Regards
Richard–
The original message included these comments:
Richard
Before you decided to remove the overdrive make sure you trouble shoot
all of the adjustments and removable parts. What type of problems are
you having? Many of us have been through this and may be able to help.
Skip Smith
–
Richard Smith
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Richard - mine stopped working and I, too, was prepared for the worst (the
engine does have to come out). However, I took it to a local Jaguar
mechanic and he was able to adjust to make it work. I have no idea what he
did but it did not require removing from the car and was a relatively
inexpensive repair.
Pat
Pat Morey
1960 XK 150 OTS
Martinsville, NJ-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org]On Behalf Of
Richard Smith
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2004 10:51 AM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] 150 overdrive
In reply to a message from Skip Smith sent Mon 17 May 2004:
The original message included these comments:
Richard
Before you decided to remove the overdrive make sure you trouble shoot
all of the adjustments and removable parts. What type of problems are
you having? Many of us have been through this and may be able to help.
Skip Smith
–
Richard Smith
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I have just declared success in a two year struggle with the overdrive
on my TR3A, which uses essentially the same overdrive as our beloved
cats. Here are some things to check:
Make sure the solenoid lever on the operating shaft is correctly
positioned. Too high and the o/d fails to engage (or stay engaged); two
low and you’ll burn out your solenoid (it has a cut off switch that
reduces current flow when properly engaged). Note: the alignment trick
using a drill shaft only works if the shaft has the correct index hole
– mine didn’t.
Make sure the cut off switches on top of the gear box are wired
correctly and operational. These disengage the o/d when in first or
reverse gear.
Make sure you are using correct gear lube. There is debate on what
that is, but I use plain old GL1 gear lube. Definitely don’t use
synthetic or other modern marvels – your o/d needs friction to engage
its clutch.
Unscrew the bottom drain cap, and stick a thin rod up the center to
feel the base of the operating pump shaft. Rotate the drive shaft
manually (e.g., jack up the rear axle, and nudge a wheel with your
foot), and confirm that the pump shaft is going up & down (not stuck).
Make sure that the pump base flange is home against the bottom of the
o/d case. This is often not quite the case on a rebuild.
Last resort: carefully unscrew the cap nut on top of the operating
pump column. Turn the engine over and confirm that some lube is
emerging, indicating that the pump is operating. !!! Don’t do this when
the engine is running – you’re dealing with 400 psi in a healthy o/d !!!
You might google for “de normanville overdrive” – many helpful links
show up.
If you’re really stuck, and want to have the overdrive rebuilt by an
expert, I can give you a name off line.
Good luck,
–Gary
30 wt oil
switch allows engagement only in 4th>
From: Gary Lindstrom gary@cs.utah.edu
Date: 2004/05/17 Mon PM 04:04:55 EDT
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [xk] 150 overdriveI have just declared success in a two year struggle with the overdrive
on my TR3A, which uses essentially the same overdrive as our beloved
cats. Here are some things to check:
Make sure the solenoid lever on the operating shaft is correctly
positioned. Too high and the o/d fails to engage (or stay engaged); two
low and you’ll burn out your solenoid (it has a cut off switch that
reduces current flow when properly engaged). Note: the alignment trick
using a drill shaft only works if the shaft has the correct index hole
– mine didn’t.Make sure the cut off switches on top of the gear box are wired
correctly and operational. These disengage the o/d when in first or
reverse gear.Make sure you are using correct gear lube. There is debate on what
that is, but I use plain old GL1 gear lube. Definitely don’t use
synthetic or other modern marvels – your o/d needs friction to engage
its clutch.Unscrew the bottom drain cap, and stick a thin rod up the center to
feel the base of the operating pump shaft. Rotate the drive shaft
manually (e.g., jack up the rear axle, and nudge a wheel with your
foot), and confirm that the pump shaft is going up & down (not stuck).Make sure that the pump base flange is home against the bottom of the
o/d case. This is often not quite the case on a rebuild.Last resort: carefully unscrew the cap nut on top of the operating
pump column. Turn the engine over and confirm that some lube is
emerging, indicating that the pump is operating. !!! Don’t do this when
the engine is running – you’re dealing with 400 psi in a healthy o/d !!!You might google for “de normanville overdrive” – many helpful links
show up.If you’re really stuck, and want to have the overdrive rebuilt by an
expert, I can give you a name off line.Good luck,
–Gary
Richard
Have you removed the side plate below the solenoid and checked the
setting lever gap? If not this is the first step, next I would check
the travel of the lever.
Skip Smith
-SS-
Richard Smith wrote:>In reply to a message from Skip Smith sent Mon 17 May 2004:
Hi Skip
Thanks for your reply. The problem relates to the overdrive not
engaging. The solenoid is working OK & the setting lever lines up
in the right place. There’s also plenty of oil in the gearbox. My
next plan was to check the drain filter is clean. After that things
start to go beyond my knowledge, so I was bracing myself for the
worst.
Regards
RichardThe original message included these comments:
Richard
Before you decided to remove the overdrive make sure you trouble shoot
all of the adjustments and removable parts. What type of problems are
you having? Many of us have been through this and may be able to help.
Skip Smith–
Richard Smith
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Make sure you’re running 30 weight engine oil in the gearbox, not gear
oil.
Tom Carson
1954 XK 120SE OTS S674946
1962 3.8 Mark 2 MOD, chrome wires
Juneau, AlaskaOn May 17, 2004, at 6:50 AM, Richard Smith wrote:
In reply to a message from Skip Smith sent Mon 17 May 2004:
Hi Skip
Thanks for your reply. The problem relates to the overdrive not
engaging. The solenoid is working OK & the setting lever lines up
in the right place. There’s also plenty of oil in the gearbox. My
next plan was to check the drain filter is clean. After that things
start to go beyond my knowledge, so I was bracing myself for the
worst.
Regards
RichardThe original message included these comments:
Richard
Before you decided to remove the overdrive make sure you trouble shoot
all of the adjustments and removable parts. What type of problems are
you having? Many of us have been through this and may be able to
help.
Skip Smith–
Richard Smith
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
XK Listers,
Forgive me, for this blatant cross-list inquiry, but I know you guys…
I may an opportunity to buy a pretty nice early Series 1 XJ6 with
factory steel sunroof here in Juneau. If I do manage to score this
car, I want to put a manual shift 5-speed in it.
Mark Stephenson and others: isn’t there a Toyota Supra kit out there
for guys like me?
Any contacts or details would be appreciated.
Tom Carson
1954 XK 120SE OTS S674946
1962 3.8 Mark 2 MOD, chrome wires
Juneau, Alaska
Tom,
I believe it was someone from the land down under, ( OZ ), Roger Payne maybe,
I remember looking at someone’s site down there & he did a number of mods,
tripple SUs, E-type front brakes & the Supra 5 speed. It wasn’t Len 'cause he’s
got the early E-type box. Terry Hilton would probably know. I remember him
excited about how the car took off when he opened up the 3 carbs.
You could also contact Brandon Shriver, he put a 5 speed in his 140 but I
think it’s from Classic Jags.
Regards, Otto M.
Tom,
Mark is still bouncing, so I’ve forwarded his comments below.
I’ve personally installed one of Ron Moore’s kits into a 78 XJ12 (Man,
was that an eye opener ! Wheelspin in 3rd gear at 80 km/hr !)
I documented a blow by blow of doing the conversion into the XJ
archives. Do a search on XJ12 manual conversion.
Don’t know if Ron Moore is still in business but if you like I can find
out. Dellow are certainly in business, from my personal experience I’m
not sure I’d buy his kit a second time, pretty near everything you want
is available from Dellows (largeish firm as opposed to Ron who’s a
backyarder) and you’ve got the nous and experience to not need the hand
holding which is basically Ron’s value add on the Dellow kit.
JL
XK admin
(Sydney Oz)-------- Original Message --------
Tom,
Ron Moore sells a kit made by Geoff Dellows. If you check the archives you
can find his e-mail address. There are two, both are bigpond. The older one
is something has sb in it somewhere. The newer one includes his name, IIRC.
The hardest part of the job is finding a LHD pedal box. I got lucky.
The next hardest part is finding the right transmission, although your
situation may be different because you aren’t working with a 2.88 rearend.
Check the Jaguar literature for the ratios of their 5-speed, then compare
that with the four Supra series trannies available, W55-W58. Get the one
with the closest match, although you may want to go a bit higher on the
overdrive. You can do the calculations to figure out what the speed will be
at what rpm.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
Tom Carson
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 7:59 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [xk] XJ6 manual conversion
XK Listers,
Forgive me, for this blatant cross-list inquiry, but I know you guys…
I may an opportunity to buy a pretty nice early Series 1 XJ6 with factory
steel sunroof here in Juneau. If I do manage to score this car, I want to
put a manual shift 5-speed in it.
Mark Stephenson and others: isn’t there a Toyota Supra kit out there for
guys like me?
Any contacts or details would be appreciated.
Tom Carson
1954 XK 120SE OTS S674946
1962 3.8 Mark 2 MOD, chrome wires
Juneau, Alaska
Ottman0401@aol.com wrote:
Tom,
I believe it was someone from the land down under, ( OZ ), Roger Payne maybe,
I remember looking at someone’s site down there & he did a number of mods,
tripple SUs, E-type front brakes & the Supra 5 speed. It wasn’t Len 'cause he’s
got the early E-type box. Terry Hilton would probably know. I remember him
excited about how the car took off when he opened up the 3 carbs.
You could also contact Brandon Shriver, he put a 5 speed in his 140 but I
think it’s from Classic Jags.
You’re on the money Otto. Classic Jags do a 5 speed, there’s also
another guy (Paul something) in the US who also do them. They are both
primarily oriented to Etypes though. Doesn’t matter much there’s not
that much difference between the Etype and the Series 1 for this purpose
The guys from Oz are Dellows (commercial) and Ron Moore (backyarder who
does an “everything included” kit for beginners)
Archives for XJ have all the details. I think I’ve still got pics
somewhere if they didn’t end up on the XJ website.
The short and sweet is, either get a manual pedal box from a Mk2/etype
or get the auto one converted (straight forward - the position for the
clutch pedal is there - a halfway competent machinist should be able to
add a Mk2/Etype clutch pedal or adapt an XJ brake pedal very easily).
Use a Mk2 clutch master cylinder - just drill and tap the holes and cut
out the opening - see above.
Dellows do the rest as a kit. The kit is documented on the Etype and XJ
websites last I looked. Gearbox, flywheel, slave cylinder etc IIRC
there’s a little sleeve that wasn’t included in their kit to centre the
primary shaft in the flywheel/crank as the Supra had a smaller diameter
on the neck. As per the pedal box a relatively straight forward job for
a competent machinist.
Custom tailshaft needed - get an XJ auto one cut down with the right
spline on the front section IIRC.
JL
Thanks to John and Mark. That’s what I needed.
TomOn Oct 20, 2004, at 4:35 AM, John Littler wrote:
Tom,
Mark is still bouncing, so I’ve forwarded his comments below.
…JL
XK admin
(Sydney Oz)
-------- Original Message --------
Tom,Ron Moore sells a kit made by Geoff Dellows. If you check the archives
you
can find his e-mail address. …
Mark-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On
Behalf Of
Tom Carson
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 7:59 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [xk] XJ6 manual conversionXK Listers,
…I may an opportunity to buy a pretty nice early Series 1 XJ6 with
factory
steel sunroof here in Juneau. If I do manage to score this car, I
want to
put a manual shift 5-speed in it.
…
Tom Carson
1954 XK 120SE OTS S674946
1962 3.8 Mark 2 MOD, chrome wires
Juneau, Alaska
In reply to a message from Tom Carson sent Wed 20 Oct 2004:
Too bad you’re so far away. I’ve been trying to sell everything to
convert an auto XJ to 4sp/od. I have a 4sp/od XJ12 i’m going to
part out, also with the bell and flywheel from a 6 cyl. to use it
in an XJ6.
Sorry, I don’t send heavy things.
I may also have a new center console insert for a ser1 with stick.
If you get that far, let me know and i’ll look for it.
Phil.–
The original message included these comments:
Forgive me, for this blatant cross-list inquiry, but I know you guys…
I may an opportunity to buy a pretty nice early Series 1 XJ6 with
factory steel sunroof here in Juneau. If I do manage to score this
car, I want to put a manual shift 5-speed in it.
–
PhilW
Virginville, Pa., United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
In reply to a message from PhilW sent Wed 20 Oct 2004:
Hello All,
I’m the Paul somebody…
A fellow lister asked me to respond to this question since
I’ve helped many people do XJ6 conversions, although I don’t
sell one, I’d be glad to help.
You can use a stock Mustang T5 World Class 5 speed. There
are plenty of them around. Get one from a 1988 to 1994 5.0L
GT. You can use a new bell ( from us ) or modify an E-type
bell. The easist thing to do is use a hydraulic release
bearing as opposed to using an E-type Fork and Slave. If
you can get an E-Type Bell, clutch Fork and Slave as a
package… great, any good machine shop can mod. the bell to
fit the T5.
The 'stang T5 will put the shifter where you would need it.
You can space it easy 2 inches forward or backwards. You can
make a speedo cable if needed or use a later Mustang tail
with a pulse pick up if you have an electronic speedo. I
know plenty of speedo shops that can make a cable up for you.
Plenty of people sell alloy flywheels and clutches so as
someone else mentioned, really the only snag is getting a
pedal box. I believe SNG Barrett in the UK has these.
In brief, you need to make a new pilot bearing, a new drive
shaft, and new transmount. The rest is all easily available.
The interior trim around the console will also have to be
addressed…
Modifying a bell can run anywhere from 200 to 400, where a
new T5 to 4.2L bell is $575.00.
For what it’s worth I just don’t do Jag transmissions, but
transmissions is all I do… Our Jag 5 speed conversion is
now 10 years old.
Take Care,
Paul Cangialosi
http://www.5speeds.com–
— Paul —
JT5 World Headquarters, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
Mike Eck:
Do you do XJ clocks as well? I have this “new” 1970 XJ6, and
what-do-you-know…the clock is inop. Please let me know the current
price for a negative ground (how bizarre) Eck conversion.
Tom Carson
1954 XK 120SE OTS S674946
1962 3.8 Mark 2 MOD, chrome wires
1970 XJ6
Juneau, Alaska
Is that the Kienzle clock with the sweep second hand and the time-set knob
in the middle of the face? I have three of them here right now, all working
fine. So far I have a 100% success rate on Kienzles.
Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2> Mike Eck:
Do you do XJ clocks as well? I have this “new” 1970 XJ6, and
what-do-you-know…the clock is inop. Please let me know the current
price for a negative ground (how bizarre) Eck conversion.Tom Carson
1954 XK 120SE OTS S674946
1962 3.8 Mark 2 MOD, chrome wires
1970 XJ6
Juneau, Alaska