[xk] 1953 XK120 Steering Column question

XK
1

The thin steel shaft that goes through the center of the
steering column, the one that protects the wires: on one
end it has a 5-inch slit cut into it. I’m assuming that
the cut end goes toward the top of the steering wheel? And
the uncut end goes toward the bottom, so when its crimped
in the small clamp it won’t leak–is this how it goes?

PS: I’ve pre-fit the shaft inside the column, and it seems
to be about a foot short. Is there another tube that takes
it up to the steering wheel? It seems like the wires would
be left unprotected for about a foot on the steering wheel
end.

Appreciate the help and have appreciated all the help I’ve
received on this forum.–
Steven Alcala XK 120 FHC
El Segundo, California, United States
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2

In reply to a message from Alcala sent Mon 12 Oct 2015:

Yes, thats correct. The split cut up against the steering
wheel. The tube on the manette control should fit into this
split, you adjust it in correct position before tighten the
clamp at the bottom/front.

Maybe your manette tube is to short? Dont remember the exact
length, but I think its about 30-40cm. If necessary, I can
measure the exact length later, I have a spare one somewhere.–
The original message included these comments:

The thin steel shaft that goes through the center of the
steering column, the one that protects the wires: on one
end it has a 5-inch slit cut into it. I’m assuming that
the cut end goes toward the top of the steering wheel? And
the uncut end goes toward the bottom, so when its crimped
in the small clamp it won’t leak–is this how it goes?
PS: I’ve pre-fit the shaft inside the column, and it seems
to be about a foot short. Is there another tube that takes
it up to the steering wheel? It seems like the wires would
be left unprotected for about a foot on the steering wheel
end.

–
sk99
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3

In reply to a message from Alcala sent Mon 12 Oct 2015:

The split is at the top and the manette stator tube has ’
bumps’ to engage in it to stop the manette rotating

There was a small manufacturing deficiency in the main stator
tube ,

For ease they use a horizontal cutter to put the slot in [
like a circular saw wheel]
This resulted in a square end to the slot ,
And like the square windows in the de Havilland Comet it
results in fractures from the corners of the slot, and so a
flacid wobbly manette

Personally I use a 1/8’’ end mill or slot drill to round the
end of the slot while it’s apart and remove the structural
weak point.–
Ed Nantes SS
Melbourne, Australia
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4

In reply to a message from Ed Nantes sent Tue 13 Oct 2015:

Another deficiency about that manette tube is that the wires
are always being dragged over a sharp edge as you move the
wheel in and out. My car was blowing fuses when I signaled a
left turn and it took me forever to trace the problem to the
wire that was grounding inside the manette tube.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
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5

In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Tue 13 Oct 2015:

Hi Rob:

With respect to this thread, you mention a short inside the
manette tube. Since fitting my Mota-Lita wheel earlier this
year I have had problems with the RH signal. Initially it was
intermittent, leading me to think it was the connectors at the
bottom end since re-making the RH signal lead connection seemed
to fix the problem in the garage, however, when I drove the car
the signal failed (horn and LH signal are fine). You mention a
sharp edge that the wire harness moves over when adjusting the
steering wheel, I assume this is at the bottom end? When I
withdrew my manette and stator tube to take off the old
steering wheel it pulled right out, I did not loosen the clamp
at the front of the steering box. Also, when I examined the
harness coming out of the tube attached to the manette, other
than the woven cover being a bit oily, there was no obvious
sign of chafing so I didn’t remove the covering to check the
condition of the exposed wiring.

A couple of questions, Rob, first where exactly was your short
and, second can the stator tube be removed from the top plate
where the horn/signal switch is located? I am wondering if my
problem may be at the connection to the switch lever itself?
The self-cancelling has only worked on one signal light for
years, the other I have to turn off manually, but the RH signal
always worked. I did have an earlier problem with the splitter
box connections, however, cleaning those successfully restored
the signal. The problem seems rooted in what I did fitting the
new steering wheel. The flasher clicks and the TRF dash
indicator light illuminates, but nothing at the RH lights front
or rear.

Best regards,

Chris.–
The original message included these comments:

Another deficiency about that manette tube is that the wires
are always being dragged over a sharp edge as you move the
wheel in and out. My car was blowing fuses when I signaled a
left turn and it took me forever to trace the problem to the
wire that was grounding inside the manette tube.

–
CP120
Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
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6

In reply to a message from CP120 sent Tue 13 Oct 2015:

Hi Chris,
Mine had chafing at the place where the short manette tube
enters the long stator tube, i.e. about level with the
windshield. It was worn through the cloth and grounding on
the steel tube. I think what happened on mine is the wires
were bunched up inside and not sliding freely when the
manette tube moved.

Of course if the wires moved freely one could also have
chafing at the forward end where the wires exit the stator tube.

I think you mean, can the short manette tube be removed
without removing the long stator tube? Yes, just tighten the
clamp on the front of the steering box. The remove the grub
screws and undo the wire ends and it will come out.

BTW there are two typos in the Service Manual page P.33
under Refit and three more under Fixed Head.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
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7

In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Tue 13 Oct 2015:

I always use trailer wire to replace the looms , or have the
manette looms woven .Depends which car Early Jags had the dip
switch controlled from the manette, later had a floor switch.

Really , how often do you adjust the steering wheel position .

Perhaps by the missus her own XK.

But the factory horizontal mill cutter did leave a sharp edge to
the end of the slot–
Ed Nantes SS
Melbourne, Australia
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8

In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Tue 13 Oct 2015:

Thanks Rob, with that aside I think you have just solved the most
nagging issue with my XK. I will confirm after the weekend.

Cheers,

Mark–
The original message included these comments:

Another deficiency about that manette tube is that the wires
are always being dragged over a sharp edge as you move the
wheel in and out. My car was blowing fuses when I signaled a
left turn and it took me forever to trace the problem to the
wire that was grounding inside the manette tube.

–
1953 XK120SE FHC S681167
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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9

In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Tue 13 Oct 2015:

Hi Rob:

Thanks for the response, sorry about getting back–out enjoying
the fall weather!!

Interesting, when I removed the grub screws and took the old
wheel off, after undoing the harness connections in front of
the steering box, I got the end plate with switch and horn etc.
and a steel tube with a length of harness. Looking at the
workshop manual on page I.10, plate I.5 it appears as if there
are three separate pieces to the tube (?). As I mentioned I
had not undone the clamp at the front of the steering box, but
all I withdrew was the one upper part of the tube. Also, you
mentioned on another thread that the horn button is returned by
a piece of sponge rubber. When I took my horn press apart it
is located by three small nuts and bolts that have springs
surrounding them, I found no evidence of sponge rubber. My car
is a 1953 DHC, were earlier cars different?

Interestingly, when I took it apart many years ago and removed
the plate that covers the actual plastic Jaguar head horn push
(there was a blemish on the finish) I found a tightly scrunched
up piece of paper. I speculated on everything from treasure
maps to a note requesting rescue from the Brown’s Lane assembly
line, but sadly it was just a sweet (candy) wrapper, presumably
inserted by a bored worker following lunch break!

Best regards,

Chris.–
The original message included these comments:

Mine had chafing at the place where the short manette tube
enters the long stator tube, i.e. about level with the
windshield. It was worn through the cloth and grounding on
the steel tube. I think what happened on mine is the wires
were bunched up inside and not sliding freely when the
manette tube moved.

–
CP120
Ancaster, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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10

In reply to a message from CP120 sent Thu 15 Oct 2015:

Plate I.5 item 90 is ‘‘not to scale’’; the center piece is the
long tube and the short piece that looks like a third tube
is the drafter’s way of showing the end of a long bundled
wiring harness.

My 1950 Mark V has a sponge rubber ring, so perhaps the
springs came later.

On mine the abraded wire was the result of 50 years of
moving the wheel in and out.–
The original message included these comments:

workshop manual on page I.10, plate I.5 it appears as if there
are three separate pieces to the tube (?). As I mentioned I

–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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11

XK120 FHC
Has anyone removed the long, lower stator tube (steering column control for carrying flasher and horn wiring) which is clamped at the steering box, without taking the whole steering column out of the car? If so how was it done?
As has been said there isn’t room for it to be pulled out in to the cockpit if the rear window is in place.

12

XK120 FHC

The answer to removing the steering column control C4514 (this is the long tube clamped at the steering box that the stator tube from the manette slides in to) :-

If the rear window is in place and removing it is not desired, it is only possible to remove the lower tube by moving the steering column.
If the car can be lifted high enough then just altering the angle of the steering column allows the new tube to be inserted through the nearside under bumper air vent (picture)

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. Otherwise the whole steering column needs to be removed from the car.
It’s a lot of work but it’s in the Service Manual.
Extra points of note:
Remove manette, wiring, steering wheel and associated parts on the column.
Check no wires have been damaged in the bulkhead whilst removing the steering column.
To remove the fascia board assembly it is necessary to remove both front screen pillar cappings and the instrument board assembly. Protect the bottom of the front wing paintwork as it’s a tight fit to get the steering column out.
Check the new stator tube is perfectly straight.
Loosen the bottom clamp and using a mandrel of fractionally smaller diameter
knock the old stator tube out from the top or bottom. Preferably don’t use the new stator tube to do this as it could get damaged.
Extracting through the top end it may be necessary to saw it up as it comes out, depending on where the fracture is.
Burr the top end of the new stator tube to make it easier for the manette tube to slide in to place and check that it does before assembly.
At all times remove any metal filings and rough edges.
Smear sealant of choice around lowest 2cm of new tube before drawing it (from top or bottom) in to place.
As elsewhere posted, ensure the slit is in the vertical position before clamping or else the manette will not be upright.
To ease replacing the steering column, remove the bracket fixing the instrument board assembly adjacent to the steering column and if it is not an act of heresy, open up (file away some metalwork) on the steering column hole on the bulkhead assembly (picture).
The points mentioned here are not a complete description but supplementary to carefully following the Service Manual directions for these procedures.
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