Hello all
I removed the damper and tried to slide a .0015’’ feeler
gauge between the seal and bushing it rides on. It seemed to
be OK so I sprayed the area around the seal with the
Permatex leak repair. Oil was changed and florescent dye was
added. Still have a slight leak, and it appears to be coming
past the seal lip. I must have distorted or tweaked the seal
when I installed the sump. I’m going to try some Blue Devil
seal saver before I start tearing things apart. If I do
replace the seal, I’ve been told it can be done without
removing the timing chain cover. First remove damper, split
cone, sump and bushing the seal rides on. Cut off the
corners of the half moon seal recess on the timing cover.
The seal will now drop down enough to slide off the end of
the crank without hitting the timing cover. HAS ANYBODY ELSE
TRIED THIS METHOD?
If I do replace the seal, I was thinking about installing
the new improved Teflon seal, but it is supposed to be
installed without the oil slinger. I don’t see how that
could be removed with the timing cover in place. Will it
ruin the Teflon seal if the slinger is not removed? TIA.
Joel–
ex jag, '66 E-type S1 4.2, '56 XK140dhc, '97 XJ-6
Denison, TX, United States
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In reply to a message from ex jag sent Fri 9 May 2014:
Hi Joel,
It really isn’t all that hard to remove the timing cover
once you have everything else out of the way. I did it once
on my 120 to replace the coil spring on the lower timing
chain tensioner. Use the double nut method to remove the 6
studs into the head. Be sure to clean the exposed part of
the head gasket with a thin cloth dragged through, being
gentle so you don’t put a bend in it, and use a sealer on it
both sides.
Rob–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
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In reply to a message from ex jag sent Fri 9 May 2014:
The distortion comes from the pan gasket. But what pan
gasket thickness did you use? The seal OD must must
‘‘crushed’’ properly by the oil pan coming up. I found several
thicknesses of pan gasket on the market, and chose the
thinnest- Dick Maury sells them- This allows the ID to
center onto the crank seal track. If the seal OD has been
glued into the timing cover, I don’t know if it will
re-center, but worth a try. I didn’t use sealant on the oil
seal OD. Gasket cement not needed on the pan gasket, either.
Doug–
The original message included these comments:
past the seal lip. I must have distorted or tweaked the seal
when I installed the sump. I’m going to try some Blue Devil