[xk] piston rods and cotter keys

Sorry I missed it. I used to scrap Jags fitted with rexine!

I’ll have a ‘word’ with Charles and co. and see if we can up our game
for the next one! :wink:

DJOn 20 May 2008, at 18:52, MikeSpoelker wrote:

In reply to a message from D J sent Tue 20 May 2008:

LOL - you weren’t around for the Rex*** ‘‘discussion’’ 6 or 8 years
ago. This was nothin’!!!

The original message included these comments:

Well, I think that concludes this weeks masterclass from the golden
oldies, brilliantly covered in both languages, English and American.
Topic suggestions please for next week’s.
Good work chaps,
DJ


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

I’ll have a ‘word’ with Charles and co. and see if we can up our game
for the next one! :wink:

DJ

DJ;
I guess we “old pharts” could tell these “young whipper-snappers” about
how, when starting out as a young mechanic trainee, we had to serve as an
Apprentice Baiter, then work our way up to Third Class, the struggles to
earn Second Class, then First Class. And, after passing all the scrutiny and
tests, were finally awarded “Master” status!! I know it was a big event in
my life!! ;-}
Charles #677556----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”


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In a message dated 5/19/2008 1:35:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
xk120us4@sbcglobal.net writes:
By contrast, an XK140 engine I disassembled, though its
history is unknown, had evidently never been disassembled
before it came into my hands, and every single cotter pin
was in excellent condition.

This comes at the end of this thread but I thought it would be good idea to
show what the proper use of cotter pins should look like. I know this engine
was taken apart & new pins were installed correctly. All of them were still
in excellent condition but the rods will get new ARP bolts.

See them @: http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1211323787

Regards, Otto M.

**************Wondering what’s for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

Absolutely correct. It opened up a whole world of possibilities and
travel, but best of all, my apprenticeship taught me to think
logically, if it was made by man you could fix it, think the job
through before picking up a tool and we actually diagnosed faults
without part swapping to ‘see’.
Further we overhauled everything except clutch and brake linings.
Unusual to need new starters, generators etc. if you were a technician
you repaired it. You were responsible for your own health and safety
and survived without legions of government inspectors who know
everything, how to do it and all without ever dirtying their hands or
as you guys says ‘creating a buck of added value.’
Lastly you knew how to fit split pins!
An apprenticeship was the greatest grounding in life and the very best
of what they now call ‘transferable skills.’
The value of logical thinking has taken me through various industries
and got me where I am today. (A legend in my own mind!)

DJOn 21 May 2008, at 06:19, BISHOP-13 wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: “D J”

I’ll have a ‘word’ with Charles and co. and see if we can up our game
for the next one! :wink:

DJ

DJ;
I guess we “old pharts” could tell these “young whipper-snappers”
about
how, when starting out as a young mechanic trainee, we had to serve
as an
Apprentice Baiter, then work our way up to Third Class, the
struggles to
earn Second Class, then First Class. And, after passing all the
scrutiny and
tests, were finally awarded “Master” status!! I know it was a big
event in
my life!! ;-}
Charles #677556


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A bit late comment: I had the same problem with my 140, and had to replace
both the cotter pins and the oil pump after having found fragments in the
sump and scratches in the pump. A specialist mechanic explained me that this
happens when the cotter pins have been replaced by non-original Jaguar ones,
which were much more resistant than the common ones and can hardly be found
any more. Non-Jaguar pins often just break owing to vibrations, friction,
acceleration or whatever. Since pins of the adequate quality can hardly be
found, the solution is replacement of the original crenulated nuts by more
recent, self-locking nuts (XJ6???).

Hope this helps

Simon

-----Message d’origine-----
De�: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] De la part
de
MikeSpoelker
Envoy�: lundi 19 mai 2008 15:03
��: xk@jag-lovers.org
Objet�: Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Ellis,

Your experience is not unusual. I’ve found too many of them in
pieces in the bottom of the sump. On ocassion, I find bits of them
ingested in the oil pump, where they cause much damage and flood
the engine with metal shavings to boot. There is really no good
engineering reason to use them. The installation of the pin
generally requires you to either under or over torque the bolt so
that the slots and the holes line up so you can fit the pin. What
sense does that make??? Not good on a threaded fastener that is
loaded almost purely in tension. In my opinion, they are
worthless, or worse, on a properly torqued threaded fastener. I
find the pins less objectionable on suspension bolts where the
applied loads are in shear. There the installed torque is not
critical, so a little loose to line up the slot-hole is no
potential issue.

Personally, I don’t use the cotter pins. Either use the later 4.2
nuts and bolts, which did away with them, or use GOOD (ARP or such)
aftermarket fasteners. And DO NOT be tempted to use a chemical
locker or nylon insert nut on a connecting rod bolt. Both are just
bad practice on conn-rods.

Regards,

The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no trace
of> > Ellis


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Sorry but I cannot let this go unanswered.
Jaguar did not make split pins. They bought them in. They’ve been used
for hundreds of years in everything from engines even to steering
components which are subjected to a regular salt bath every winter.
The real problem with those is getting the ‘legs’ out the bolt/stud.
They are however a use once only component. The problems only arise
when they get bent back and forward because some numptie can’t be
bothered to get a new one.
I defy anyone to produce credible evidence of a split pin which has
been fitted correctly and never removed, failing.
With the advances in metallurgy I prefer to put my faith in a split
pin which is under no real stress rather than a piece of nylon insert
over a 30 year period.

DJOn 21 May 2008, at 12:05, Simon Tillier wrote:

A bit late comment: I had the same problem with my 140, and had to
replace
both the cotter pins and the oil pump after having found fragments
in the
sump and scratches in the pump. A specialist mechanic explained me
that this
happens when the cotter pins have been replaced by non-original
Jaguar ones,
which were much more resistant than the common ones and can hardly
be found
any more. Non-Jaguar pins often just break owing to vibrations,
friction,
acceleration or whatever. Since pins of the adequate quality can
hardly be
found, the solution is replacement of the original crenulated nuts
by more
recent, self-locking nuts (XJ6???).

Hope this helps

Simon

-----Message d’origine-----
De : owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] De la
part
de
MikeSpoelker
Envoy� : lundi 19 mai 2008 15:03
� : xk@jag-lovers.org
Objet : Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Ellis,

Your experience is not unusual. I’ve found too many of them in
pieces in the bottom of the sump. On ocassion, I find bits of them
ingested in the oil pump, where they cause much damage and flood
the engine with metal shavings to boot. There is really no good
engineering reason to use them. The installation of the pin
generally requires you to either under or over torque the bolt so
that the slots and the holes line up so you can fit the pin. What
sense does that make??? Not good on a threaded fastener that is
loaded almost purely in tension. In my opinion, they are
worthless, or worse, on a properly torqued threaded fastener. I
find the pins less objectionable on suspension bolts where the
applied loads are in shear. There the installed torque is not
critical, so a little loose to line up the slot-hole is no
potential issue.

Personally, I don’t use the cotter pins. Either use the later 4.2
nuts and bolts, which did away with them, or use GOOD (ARP or such)
aftermarket fasteners. And DO NOT be tempted to use a chemical
locker or nylon insert nut on a connecting rod bolt. Both are just
bad practice on conn-rods.

Regards,

The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found
bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no
trace
of
Ellis


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

I did not mean that Jaguar made the cotter pins, which I definitely ignore
but indeed is not very likely, but used some made to their, or at least
non-standard, specification. However comments on this list also suggest that
it may be just a matter of dimensions when imperial dimensions pins have
been replaced by metric ones, which had been the case of my car. The metric
pins are necessarily slightly smaller in diameter than the imperial ones,
which allows some movement under acceleration, inducing friction, torsion,
shocks and finally frequent rupture.

Simon

-----Message d’origine-----
De�: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] De la part
de D J> Envoy�: mercredi 21 mai 2008 13:52
��: xk@jag-lovers.org
Objet�: Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

Sorry but I cannot let this go unanswered.
Jaguar did not make split pins. They bought them in. They’ve been used
for hundreds of years in everything from engines even to steering
components which are subjected to a regular salt bath every winter.
The real problem with those is getting the ‘legs’ out the bolt/stud.
They are however a use once only component. The problems only arise
when they get bent back and forward because some numptie can’t be
bothered to get a new one.
I defy anyone to produce credible evidence of a split pin which has
been fitted correctly and never removed, failing.
With the advances in metallurgy I prefer to put my faith in a split
pin which is under no real stress rather than a piece of nylon insert
over a 30 year period.

DJ

On 21 May 2008, at 12:05, Simon Tillier wrote:

A bit late comment: I had the same problem with my 140, and had to
replace
both the cotter pins and the oil pump after having found fragments
in the
sump and scratches in the pump. A specialist mechanic explained me
that this
happens when the cotter pins have been replaced by non-original
Jaguar ones,
which were much more resistant than the common ones and can hardly
be found
any more. Non-Jaguar pins often just break owing to vibrations,
friction,
acceleration or whatever. Since pins of the adequate quality can
hardly be
found, the solution is replacement of the original crenulated nuts
by more
recent, self-locking nuts (XJ6???).

Hope this helps

Simon

-----Message d’origine-----
De : owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] De la
part
de
MikeSpoelker
Envoy� : lundi 19 mai 2008 15:03
� : xk@jag-lovers.org
Objet : Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Ellis,

Your experience is not unusual. I’ve found too many of them in
pieces in the bottom of the sump. On ocassion, I find bits of them
ingested in the oil pump, where they cause much damage and flood
the engine with metal shavings to boot. There is really no good
engineering reason to use them. The installation of the pin
generally requires you to either under or over torque the bolt so
that the slots and the holes line up so you can fit the pin. What
sense does that make??? Not good on a threaded fastener that is
loaded almost purely in tension. In my opinion, they are
worthless, or worse, on a properly torqued threaded fastener. I
find the pins less objectionable on suspension bolts where the
applied loads are in shear. There the installed torque is not
critical, so a little loose to line up the slot-hole is no
potential issue.

Personally, I don’t use the cotter pins. Either use the later 4.2
nuts and bolts, which did away with them, or use GOOD (ARP or such)
aftermarket fasteners. And DO NOT be tempted to use a chemical
locker or nylon insert nut on a connecting rod bolt. Both are just
bad practice on conn-rods.

Regards,

The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found
bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no
trace
of
Ellis


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Simon,

Nothing non-standard or Jaguar specific about the split-pins/cotter-pins
used by Jaguar on our XKs.

All such bought-in items were competently made to rigidly controlled British
Standard by many specialist companies, and of course being British they were
made in 1950s/60s to British Standard imperial wire sizes, and those used by
Jaguar are detailed in the various spare-parts catalogues with
“standard-part” coding, showing 1/64" increment in wire diameter, of varying
1/8" incremental length.

My earlier comment about metric sizes is a problem we have in Australia
today, not back in 1950s/60s when we also used Imperial system of
measurement. I would think USA would never have used metric wire size
split-pins.

In Australia the metric size split pins are all you can now get, thus as per
my earlier advice - I purchased in a whole lot of imperial size split pins
from USA, as to use a metric split pin in an original imperial split-pin
hole is inviting potential problems.

My view is very simple - use NEW split pins, made to standard imperial
sizes, select the right one for your application, install it properly, and
you will NEVER have a problem. Do anything different and you expose some
risk.

But I too can see no point using more modern type lock-nuts etc, although
many modern engine reconditioning companies may suggest it, as its easier
for them, but they cannot claim its any better. Chances are, they may not
have any staff who are familiar with split-pins and correct way to install
them.

Roger Payne - XK140MC OTS; E-Type 4.2 S.1 OTS; DSV8.
Canberra.-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
Simon Tillier
Sent: Wednesday, 21 May 2008 10:34 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

I did not mean that Jaguar made the cotter pins, which I definitely ignore
but indeed is not very likely, but used some made to their, or at least
non-standard, specification. However comments on this list also suggest that
it may be just a matter of dimensions when imperial dimensions pins have
been replaced by metric ones, which had been the case of my car. The metric
pins are necessarily slightly smaller in diameter than the imperial ones,
which allows some movement under acceleration, inducing friction, torsion,
shocks and finally frequent rupture.

Simon

-----Message d’origine-----
De�: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] De la part
de D J
Envoy�: mercredi 21 mai 2008 13:52
��: xk@jag-lovers.org
Objet�: Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

Sorry but I cannot let this go unanswered.
Jaguar did not make split pins. They bought them in. They’ve been used
for hundreds of years in everything from engines even to steering
components which are subjected to a regular salt bath every winter.
The real problem with those is getting the ‘legs’ out the bolt/stud.
They are however a use once only component. The problems only arise
when they get bent back and forward because some numptie can’t be
bothered to get a new one.
I defy anyone to produce credible evidence of a split pin which has
been fitted correctly and never removed, failing.
With the advances in metallurgy I prefer to put my faith in a split
pin which is under no real stress rather than a piece of nylon insert
over a 30 year period.

DJ

On 21 May 2008, at 12:05, Simon Tillier wrote:

A bit late comment: I had the same problem with my 140, and had to
replace
both the cotter pins and the oil pump after having found fragments
in the
sump and scratches in the pump. A specialist mechanic explained me
that this
happens when the cotter pins have been replaced by non-original
Jaguar ones,
which were much more resistant than the common ones and can hardly
be found
any more. Non-Jaguar pins often just break owing to vibrations,
friction,
acceleration or whatever. Since pins of the adequate quality can
hardly be
found, the solution is replacement of the original crenulated nuts
by more
recent, self-locking nuts (XJ6???).

Hope this helps

Simon

-----Message d’origine-----
De : owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] De la
part
de
MikeSpoelker
Envoy� : lundi 19 mai 2008 15:03
� : xk@jag-lovers.org
Objet : Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Ellis,

Your experience is not unusual. I’ve found too many of them in
pieces in the bottom of the sump. On ocassion, I find bits of them
ingested in the oil pump, where they cause much damage and flood
the engine with metal shavings to boot. There is really no good
engineering reason to use them. The installation of the pin
generally requires you to either under or over torque the bolt so
that the slots and the holes line up so you can fit the pin. What
sense does that make??? Not good on a threaded fastener that is
loaded almost purely in tension. In my opinion, they are
worthless, or worse, on a properly torqued threaded fastener. I
find the pins less objectionable on suspension bolts where the
applied loads are in shear. There the installed torque is not
critical, so a little loose to line up the slot-hole is no
potential issue.

Personally, I don’t use the cotter pins. Either use the later 4.2
nuts and bolts, which did away with them, or use GOOD (ARP or such)
aftermarket fasteners. And DO NOT be tempted to use a chemical
locker or nylon insert nut on a connecting rod bolt. Both are just
bad practice on conn-rods.

Regards,

The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found
bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no
trace
of
Ellis


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

No disrespect Simon, But I’ve never heard of any problem where the Jag
crankshaft (or any crankshaft) transmitted a vibration strong enough to
cause allegedly inferior split pins to break… If there is that level of
vibration going on in the crankshaft, the whole damn car would be shaking so
bad that the front wings would be flapping!
Additionally, the XK120 Part Catalog lists the Part Number of the Split
Pin as: “L.103-5/8U”. This Split Pin is listed in the “Standard Parts”
section as being a 7/64" diameter by 1" length. the “Remarks” are:
“Drivopen” type. Note: Parts listed in the “Standard Parts” are NOT unique
to Jaguar. They are, as the name implies, “standard parts”, available
(then) thru any common source of supply… in short, a hardware store or the
like. Hardly anything special, at all. (granted, some “standard parts” like
the “whitworth” nuts and bolts are a little difficult to come these days,
they are still available)
That said, I am not disputing that your 140 had a problem with the split
pins… a high likelihood cause was NOT as your “specialist mechanic” (term
used loosely) claimed of being “non-original Jaguar ones”, but probably the
incorrect diameter, or the higher likelihood of being installed incorrectly!
Today, we have Stainless Steel Split Pins available “over-the-counter” at
nearly every auto parts store in the country (USA), I would not suspect that
Europe doesn’t have them, as well. I use the Stainless Steel Split Pins on
every part on my cars where required. The really nice feature is they don’t
rust and get stuck in the bolts, etc.!
Charles #677556.

A bit late comment: I had the same problem with my 140, and had to replace
both the cotter pins and the oil pump after having found fragments in the
sump and scratches in the pump. A specialist mechanic explained me that
this
happens when the cotter pins have been replaced by non-original Jaguar
ones,
which were much more resistant than the common ones and can hardly be
found----- Original Message -----
From: “Simon Tillier”
any more. Non-Jaguar pins often just break owing to vibrations, friction,
acceleration or whatever. Since pins of the adequate quality can hardly be
found, the solution is replacement of the original crenulated nuts by more
recent, self-locking nuts (XJ6???).

Hope this helps

Simon


I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 3119 spam emails to date.
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Sorry Simon - just noticed your email address that suggests you are in
France - where the metric system was invented.

You will have the same problem we now have in Australia - only metric size
split-pins. Do what I have done, buy a batch of Imperial size split-pins
from England or USA and use them with confidence.

Roger Payne - XK140MC OTS; E-Type 4.2 S.1 OTS; DSV8.
Canberra.-----Original Message-----
From: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] On Behalf Of
Simon Tillier
Sent: Wednesday, 21 May 2008 10:34 PM
To: xk@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

I did not mean that Jaguar made the cotter pins, which I definitely ignore
but indeed is not very likely, but used some made to their, or at least
non-standard, specification. However comments on this list also suggest that
it may be just a matter of dimensions when imperial dimensions pins have
been replaced by metric ones, which had been the case of my car. The metric
pins are necessarily slightly smaller in diameter than the imperial ones,
which allows some movement under acceleration, inducing friction, torsion,
shocks and finally frequent rupture.

Simon

-----Message d’origine-----
De�: owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] De la part
de D J
Envoy�: mercredi 21 mai 2008 13:52
��: xk@jag-lovers.org
Objet�: Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

Sorry but I cannot let this go unanswered.
Jaguar did not make split pins. They bought them in. They’ve been used
for hundreds of years in everything from engines even to steering
components which are subjected to a regular salt bath every winter.
The real problem with those is getting the ‘legs’ out the bolt/stud.
They are however a use once only component. The problems only arise
when they get bent back and forward because some numptie can’t be
bothered to get a new one.
I defy anyone to produce credible evidence of a split pin which has
been fitted correctly and never removed, failing.
With the advances in metallurgy I prefer to put my faith in a split
pin which is under no real stress rather than a piece of nylon insert
over a 30 year period.

DJ

On 21 May 2008, at 12:05, Simon Tillier wrote:

A bit late comment: I had the same problem with my 140, and had to
replace
both the cotter pins and the oil pump after having found fragments
in the
sump and scratches in the pump. A specialist mechanic explained me
that this
happens when the cotter pins have been replaced by non-original
Jaguar ones,
which were much more resistant than the common ones and can hardly
be found
any more. Non-Jaguar pins often just break owing to vibrations,
friction,
acceleration or whatever. Since pins of the adequate quality can
hardly be
found, the solution is replacement of the original crenulated nuts
by more
recent, self-locking nuts (XJ6???).

Hope this helps

Simon

-----Message d’origine-----
De : owner-xk@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-xk@jag-lovers.org] De la
part
de
MikeSpoelker
Envoy� : lundi 19 mai 2008 15:03
� : xk@jag-lovers.org
Objet : Re: [xk] piston rods and cotter keys

In reply to a message from Ellis sent Sun 18 May 2008:

Ellis,

Your experience is not unusual. I’ve found too many of them in
pieces in the bottom of the sump. On ocassion, I find bits of them
ingested in the oil pump, where they cause much damage and flood
the engine with metal shavings to boot. There is really no good
engineering reason to use them. The installation of the pin
generally requires you to either under or over torque the bolt so
that the slots and the holes line up so you can fit the pin. What
sense does that make??? Not good on a threaded fastener that is
loaded almost purely in tension. In my opinion, they are
worthless, or worse, on a properly torqued threaded fastener. I
find the pins less objectionable on suspension bolts where the
applied loads are in shear. There the installed torque is not
critical, so a little loose to line up the slot-hole is no
potential issue.

Personally, I don’t use the cotter pins. Either use the later 4.2
nuts and bolts, which did away with them, or use GOOD (ARP or such)
aftermarket fasteners. And DO NOT be tempted to use a chemical
locker or nylon insert nut on a connecting rod bolt. Both are just
bad practice on conn-rods.

Regards,

The original message included these comments:

I pulled the sump on my 3.8 150 yesterday and to my dismay found
bits of
cotter keys in the sump. One nut on the #1’s bearing cap had no
trace
of
Ellis


Mike Spoelker 672027
Louisville, KY, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Simon;
Thank You for noting that the real reason for the split pin failure in
your XK140 was NOT because they were simply “split pins”, but because they
were the Incorrect Split Pins…
The “true cause” of the split pin failure goes back to “installer
error”… NOT the fault of the original design use!
Charles #677556.

However comments on this list also suggest that----- Original Message -----
From: “Simon Tillier”

it may be just a matter of dimensions when imperial dimensions pins have
been replaced by metric ones, which had been the case of my car.


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In reply to a message from BISHOP-13 sent Wed 21 May 2008:

Wow, this thread has 31 posts on it so far.
There is indeed an American standard for cotter pins (ANSI
B18.8.1-1972, R1977), and my Machinery’s Handbook has
permitted size ranges. For the size used on our connecting
rods, part number L103.5/8U, 7/64’’ x 1’’ Drivopen type, the
max dia and width is .104’’ and min width is .080, for a hole
size of .125’’ diameter. Anybody have access to that
standard? What does it say about permitted steel types?
Drivopen sounds like a trade name, which turned up nothing
on google.
Here is a supplier that will ship UPS anywhere.


Search for the American name cotter pin. If you search the
British name split pin, you will get something completely
different. Note that this supplier’s stock has not been
rated according to ANSI, so you’ll have to spring for a few
buck to see what you get.

And to make the waters yet muddier, Machinery’s Handbook
shows yet another kind of pin called a cotter pin, with a
T-head and grooves along the shank, ANSI B18.8.2-1978. I
can’t recall ever seeing this type in any application. Looks
like it is intended to be hammered into a machined hole.

My Machine Design textbook makes the argument that if a
steel bolt is properly preloaded and never excessively
loaded above what is called the endurance or fatigue limit,
it will last forever and can be used repeatedly. I got so
interested that I started doing a search of all the
published research on connecting rod bolts and nuts. There
is quite a lot, colored by a lot of opinions; for example
the bolt vendors are 100 percent in favor of replacing them
as often as possible, and engine builders working on
somebody else’s nickel and having to guarantee their work
also replace every time. It’s too much for this thread so I
will start a new thread when I have something to report.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II
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