Hi, anyone have any advice on how to remove an XK120 steering wheel, at the moment I have removed the 2 grub screws and pulled out the hub 4-5".
Thanks,
Robbie:
The manette control for horn and signals will have to have the electrical connectors at the steering box end of the column disconnected before it can be pulled out completely. The steering wheel knurled adjustment ring has to be rotated until it is free and then the circlip at the top of the splined portion of the column has to be removed to allow the steering wheel itself to be removed. (See workshop manual pp.I.4 and I.14)
Chris.
Chris, Thanks for your prompt reply. There does not seem to be any circlip, maybe that is due to it being an early model ?? I was hoping to dismantle the wiring at the horn end, is this method too complicated, if so I presume a draw cord is required to get the wires back into the tube ? Best, Robbie
Robbie:
It seems odd that there would not be a circlip? When you pull the wheel towards you through the adjustable section it should stop before it falls into your lap by coming up against the clip. On my car, a 1953, I have not tried to take the manette apart to disconnect the wires at the top end. Once the wires are disconnected at the bottom the stator tube ( through which the wiring runs) can be pulled out with the wiring, if it will not there is a clamp at the bottom end at the front of the steering box that will need to be loosened. Yes, feeding the wiring back in will require a draw cord/wire, it’s a bit of a pain to be sure.
Chris.
I don’t think disconnecting the wiring from the manette end will be a starter.
It would be more likely that a PO has lost the circlip. They had circlips from 1936 when the first models with adjustable wheel rake came in
Generally we rewire using traier cable so it’s neat and all the wires are in together. And 2 people , one to guide the manette in so the slot in the tube aligns and the other down below pulling the wiring through . . And yes a draw wire taped to the wiring loom pushed through first.
The manette on a an XK 120 is just a MK VIi manette. but more expensive second hand.
Thanks for your advice Chris and Ed, I will have a go over the next few days. Robbie
Welcome Robbie.
The horn control or manette is the same as Mark V and Mark VII, although if you do not have turn signals they deleted the lever for it and put the notch on the bottom.
Best to pull out the wiring and check it for abrasion damage from rubbing over the sharp edge where the short manette tube fits over the long tube inside the column. Mine was worn through and would blow the fuse whenever I signaled a left turn.
The circlip is just a piece of round wire bent into a C shape.
It fits into a groove on the end of the inner column.
Hard to get at it way down in there.
Push the wheel in and you’ll have a better chance.
Rob, thanks for your advice. I’ve now sorted it except for the circlip as there is no groove !
My next task is to improve the brightness of the front and rear lamps, have you any advice on this or shall I start a new ‘topic’ ? Best, Robbie
Probably the easiest way to improve lighting is to use relays, powered by the original wiring. You would have to run a heavy gauge wire to each end of the car to supply the “big” power for the relays…this would greatly reduce voltage drop to the lamps that the stock system (probably) causes. There are MANY internet articles on this subject.
Strange that there would be no groove. Somebody must have cut off 1/4" of the tube?
Since you are new to the forum; best to start a new topic for lights, so more people will see it, and describe what lights you have, original wiring or replacement, etc. There were different lights for different countries, to comply with various lighting laws.
The 120 headlamps were silver plated reflectors. I know some found that using halogen globes affected thesiler plating
The early MK V/ VII / XK120 headlamp units , can be dismantled… the reflector removed from the glass without too much difficulty and the silver repolished or re-plated.
Ed, Thanks for your advice. Robbie
Who I used to use, to resilver ( or aluminize, for longer life) headlight reflectors and my telescopes.
I await the launch of the Wiggle telescope to replace the Hubble : >)
A popular substitute for silver plating on headlamp reflectors is Rhodium. But There’s not much in the price different. personally I like the yellowish tinge to the silver. but I think the rhodium may not tarnish as quickly.
If using silver , any seals against it should be white rubber not black.