alright what gives?thought I could replace tensioner only(see
previous post)while waiting for new tensioner noticed a broken
tooth on exhaust sprocket.ordered new one. saturday installed new
tensioner and sprocket and still have slack in chain,(gets tighter
and looser every couple inches of chain movement if I turn crank by
hand).when it’s at the loose spots I can turn exhaust cam with a
hex wrench approx.1/4inch.i can’t believe the chain could stretch
that much.does the v.v.t.need that slack?made a cam lock out of
aluminum bar stock so I know the cams have not moved.it almost
seems like the intake sprocket is out of round.decided to start the
car on 4 cyls.so I could watch what its doing.besides being a
little messy(trying to control the oil out of the tensioner)
everything looked fine,so I buttoned it up and started the
car.still have the rattle.am worried about the looseness,took cover
back off and here I sit,hopeing you guys can steer me right–
nonpartial
chicago, United States
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How bad is the rattle? Did it change in sound after replacing the tensioner? Since you started it with the cover off were you able to pinpoint exactly where the rattle is coming from? After you started it and got the oil pressure up in the tensioner and the vvt do you still have the looseness? I can hear my fuel injectors ticking, and they are louder when the car is cold but there is no sound coming from the chain or tensioners. I did not rotate my crankshaft over after I replaced my tensioners so I can not tell you if the looseness at certain points is normal or not. Perhaps the chains have been stretched or the primary tensioners are weak. Hope you get it figured out.
Jason
97 XK8, 97K-----Original Message-----
From: nonpartial cwb165@aol.com
Sent: Jul 25, 2005 5:56 AM
To: xk8@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [xk8] loose secondary chain
alright what gives?thought I could replace tensioner only(see
previous post)while waiting for new tensioner noticed a broken
tooth on exhaust sprocket.ordered new one. saturday installed new
tensioner and sprocket and still have slack in chain,(gets tighter
and looser every couple inches of chain movement if I turn crank by
hand).when it’s at the loose spots I can turn exhaust cam with a
hex wrench approx.1/4inch.i can’t believe the chain could stretch
that much.does the v.v.t.need that slack?made a cam lock out of
aluminum bar stock so I know the cams have not moved.it almost
seems like the intake sprocket is out of round.decided to start the
car on 4 cyls.so I could watch what its doing.besides being a
little messy(trying to control the oil out of the tensioner)
everything looked fine,so I buttoned it up and started the
car.still have the rattle.am worried about the looseness,took cover
back off and here I sit,hopeing you guys can steer me right
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from nonpartial sent Mon 25 Jul 2005:
yes, there will be slack untill the primary and secondary
tensioners pump up with oil… when doing the ‘‘timing’’ with the
straight block of metal across the cams, make sure ALL of the slack
is out of the long chain, especially on the left side of the
engine, or the timing will not be correct. the slack is to be
taken up where the primary tensioner resides or in other words the
INSIDE (towards the water pump side) of each long (primary) chain.
this is what the ‘‘wedges’’ are for in the documentaion. I made the
mistake of not taking up the slack on my first crack at it, and the
timing slipped once the tensioners filled up about 15 minutes
later. had to tear her apart again and do it right. when I
rebuilt the engine 10K later, It was old hat…–
Bloody Mess
Ypsilanti, MI, United States
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