1963 Lindner Nocker Low Drag Coupe Build

@D_Barnes Thank you. I will be keeping an eye out for a copy state side. Where the block cracked makes sense given the description. Below is a link to a YouTube video of a company that manufactures 2jz blocks for high horsepower applications. The detail and description he gives for reinforcement is interesting. He also states, depending on design, the weight savings can be negligible due to the extra reinforcement but you end up with a stiffer block.

Steve Morrison Racing, link below is a US engine manufacturer that puts out a lot of great videos. Extremely knowledgeable and explains engine design concepts well. I found his piston sleeve video below really good for learning about engines.

I appreciate this group sharing advice with me so I will try to share from time to time my inspirations as well.

The month of August will be dedicated to finishing the jaguar front clip. Front passenger fender coming along nicely.

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You’re doing incredible work. Keep posting your progress. I enjoy following along.

One question, what did you use to scan the engine?

Thanks
Dave

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@montauk1989 Dave, thanks and great question. I will try to do better in the future with sharing the software I am using. The application is called Polycam and can be download for free for your phone from the Google store. In the free version you receive 5 free scans before they ask for you to pay for them. So far I have been impressed with the results. I use Blender (free) to read the output file and to clean up the mesh a little. I have then been importing the .stl meshes into Fusion 360 (free version) to start to design the CAD and tooling profiles.

I highly recommend experimenting with Polycam.

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Abebooks is always my go-to for finding rare used books. They have 3 copies right now, including the same seller David mentions from eBay, but his shipping is cheaper if ordered on abebooks. His copy is by far the cheapest currently available, and sounds in the best condition too.

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You have an interesting project. Casting an aluminium block is relatively challenging and hopefully if i could share my experience casting aluminium blocks in Rhodesia 40 years ago, my learning mistakes might help you.
I cast an Aston DB4 replacement block on our farm. It was a process of trial and many errors but we eventually produced a couple of aluminium cylinder blocks that drove hundreds of thousands of km.
We made wood patterns easily enough but we found out the hard way that the casting pour must be achieved seamlessly with many pouring pots filled from three burners running flat out. We modified the water jacket and made the fire face an open deck which simplified the core making and placement. That required us to machine a huge cast iron monosleave containing all six bores. The cast iron monosleave overcame the constant overheating problems we had with the standard engine. An O ring groove was machined into both the top & bottom faces of the monosleave to seal water. We cross drilled the monosleave to improve water flow around the bores which helped cooling.
Sanctions against Rhodesia meant that we had to develop local fixes rather than simply importing vital parts from the UK. We only ever made aluminium castings and the following bullet points hopefully help your project.
1). Calculate and double check you have sufficient melting capacity. Theres nothing worse than completing 95% of a pour and running out.
2). We set up core boxes on a dry, flat, clean concrete floor (Mums carport). Important that the whole area is dry, ventilated and sheltered. Casting can be dangerous and our home made pouring laddles weighed a tonne. Modern health and safety professionals would never allow us to cast using the same methods today.

3). We did not try to make the machining allowances too small. Our castings were neither as accurate nor was well finished as factory castings from a proper founday. That necessitated
generous machining allowances.
4). We had significant leakage of moulton aluminium due to our amaturish moulds.
5). Runners and risers had a big impact on porosity and we no doubt made cylinder blocks that were not as well finished as factory made
6). Pouring needs to be swift but not hurried. I think we had about 8 people working on melting and decanting into our laddle and 2 of us pouring the part.
I cannot remember how many blocks we made in the learning phase but think we melted about 6 down before we made a workable sample.

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Peter, great story, do you have any images?
I imagine driving around Rhodesia in a DB4 back then was quite a thing, what happened to the car?

The Aston was exported to England and ran farm engine for at least 20 years.

No photos of the DB but Clive Roberts is active on this blog and he has posted news on an E type we are jointly building.

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I also use Fusion 360 for concept layouts of our structure and suspension. It has huge capability, I’ve barely scratched the surface. I leave the detail shapes and dimensioning to the professionals.

I use Creality for small 3D printing jobs, another forum member told me yesterday about their Lizard scanner. He plans to use it to scan his front suspension. https://www.creality.com/products/creality-cr-scan-lizard-3d-scanner

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Indeed. The question no-one was asking

Some updates soon if we can get Peter off the laptop and back to the machine shop

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Here’s some more information from Peter re casting methods:

"an excellent YouTube clip showing by far the easiest casting method. Make a disposable Styrofoam model of the finished aluminium casting. Must be scaled up to allow for shrinkage as the casting cools. It’s a great and safe way to make a more detailed casting, excellent if you’re only going to make one.

Another approach if their 3D printer is big enough is to print the block in wax and bond the pieces together to make the whole block. The wax is the shape of all the voids that will become metal. Wash the wax mould repeatedly with a fine sand slurry until the slurry has hardened and is around 8mm thick. Then put sand mould in an oven to melt out the wax. Place the 8mm wall thickness mould shell in a cope and drag (casting boxes) and gently tamp down to surround and support the refractory sand shell.
Then pour molten Ali into the mould cavity that was created by wax impression. Surface finishes are usually superb. Casting this way will create the best result"

Good luck.