Hi
Been dark when getting home and very wet here but I did get these photos earlier tonight
Now I see picture on the larger I pad I think that could be 54 on the end.
Rob
It says -8 but then what is after that? You‘ll snap better pictures in the next days.
As Paul said on the other thread, replace the bare 3.8 and drop a running 4.2 right in. It looks really good in that boat.
That would be G7956-8S, the S indicating the C-type head was from an XK140 SE (Special Equipment higher performance option package), probably mid to late 1956.
That filter was used on XK150 and Mark 1&2 saloons.
Your G7956 engine is only 18 engines after this G7938 engine which originally came in a maroon roadster.
Someone had hacksawed off one of the cam cover studs.
Got a shot of engine/block number
I believe block number to be
7. 51553-8
But as I said very hard to see, I have soaked the oil filter/cooler and it will be removed but I can’t rush it, or something will break.
The Fletcher owners club,( boat history) have no immediate answers but it is on there forum, so I might get more info.
I will pull the engine, and see where I am once removed, wether to strip it down myself or not.
It would be really nice if there is a keen DIYer in my area SOUTHAMPTON who would like to come round and offer some advice.
Thanks. Rob
There is a letter between the 7 and the 5, might be a B or D or J.
You had said earlier that the engine block had the casting number C22250.
Is there another cast number below and forward from that, like 3.8 Litre or 4.2 Litre?
The distributor is held by a clamp, which you can loosen or remove the whole clamp with the distr. with a 7/16" wrench.
Would think it’s a B looking at picture.
Well, 7E would be a 4.2 E-Type, 7F would be a 4.2 420 and 7L would be an early XJ6.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/xk-lovers/library/engine_numbers.htm
Block sanding with fine abrasive paper will make it easier to read.
Thanks for all your help thus far.
It is supposed to be a nice day tomorrow so will try the fine emery cloth. And get these numbers put to bed.
Or chalk. Then rub. Could be sufficient, probably not. I think 7E.
Intake manifold: drench all bolts on the entire engine with penetrating fluid and try again in a few days, and again, and again…
So good day today.To clarify I have,
Engine Block = 7B 51553-8. 3.8s. 9/63-8/68. ?
Cylinder head = G 7956-8. XK140SE 3.4L ?
SU carbs X2. 1"3/4. AUC 839
Please let me know if you think I’m wrong, !
Is this normal to have a smaller engined, cylinder head on this block?
Everything is very corroded, so my thoughts are to pull the engine,and get a large plastic tank, and emerse the engine into diesel for a couple of weeks. I’ve squirted some diesel into spark plug holes today. She is definitely coming apart, I have been doing some research into what needs doing on rebuild and I’m going to give it a go.
A friend of mine who is a marine engineer, is very helpful and will be my go to guru if I get really stuck, and of course there are many Jaguar specialists here in uk.
I’ve also got JAGLOVERS forums
Are there engine manuals, available for free download available ?
Is the Haynes manual worth having on a rebuild?
Thanks
Rob
Not a problem. It makes absolutely no difference. It is entirely possible to install the cylinder head from the last 4.2L S3 XJ6 on the first generation XK120/MK7 3.4L and vice versa. Some of those potential swaps wouldn’t make a lot of sense, and some are more work than others, but physically, any head will bolt to any block. When this head came out, it was the best Jaguar head available. Those improvements eventually migrated to the later production heads, so your 3.8L didn’t see any performance boost by swapping the original head for this old XK140 production C-Type head. The combustion chamber volume is the same on every unaltered Jag cylinder head I have CC’d. The compression ratio is a function of the dome on the piston. Your head is much more valuable as a part for an XK140 restoration than it is a performance part.
The engine section of the factory service manuals are the best source of information. In your case, you only need the engine section, so you could almost get by with a FSM for any of the late’50’s early 60’s models.
The manifold, which appears it may be from the same XK140, would be difficult to shift if it were stored dry. Since the boat dates to the 1960’s and the C-Type cylinder head the mid '50’s, I would not think that that head contributes any provenance to the boat restoration. Since the head is valuable to someone with a XK140, I would sell it and use the cash to find yourself an early 4.2L out of a 420 or S1 XJ6. They should be plentiful and they will not have spent their lives in the bilge of a boat. I would leave the manifold on the C-Type head and sell the pair of them as a package. Let the next guy worry with separating them.
This is from a 3.8 S-Type saloon, and as they began with 7B50001 yours is the 1553rd such engine built, which would put it in 1964.
The original head would have been a little better in the intake porting, so it is a little odd that the builder would use an earlier head, but maybe that was what they had available.
There is a Haynes manual and an Autobooks manual in paper which you can probably find in the used books market.
JDHT has in the past produced manuals on CD-ROM. You could try the saloons forum to see what they know about those.
Thanks for comments
I’m still in a dilema about the whole project, I don’t mind putting in hours of labour, as I do enjoy it, but don’t want it to become a runaway train.
I ideally want to stay with straight 6 as I also have these expensive correct maranised exhaust outlets to go on.
Also would want to stay with carbs as sea water and electronics don’t mix
What engine options have I limited myself to
Thanks. Rob
The 4.2, cheap, available, torquey. Manifolds bolt on, mounts probably work, the perfect solution. Looks good too.
What sort of money do you think I have is worth?
Should I just put on EBay or is there another option?
Thanks
