So, I’ve been speaking wit Stuart ar Coventry auto parts,he is prepared to swap the C head for a B head with a set of triple carbs, so I will end up with a 3.8S E-type engine at around 265bhp and it would look really cool.
He will help me with all the work towards the rebuild, as he does this type of thing all the time, and he carries the majority of all parts I need from all the gaskets sets to pistons,big end bearings, manifold and head bolts, pretty much all what I need. Great bloke he really keen I get this boat back on the water.
I’m going to start the unbolting process this weekend, and shall update next week
Thanks. Rob
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Actually the B head was used on saloons beginning about 1957 into the 60s. The E-Type used a gold painted head called the “straight port” head. So you won’t have quite 265 bhp with a B head.
I’m not aware of a triple manifold for a B head, unless it an aftermarket piece for Weber DCOE’s? All the factory trips are straight port heads?
I think what he is swapping you is not B head, but a straight port head with triple SU carbs, which I would guess is a very fair trade for a C-type head whose condition is unknown, particularly if he is providing technical assistance.
I contend there wont even be 220 hp.
I apologise there was no mention of B in his email to me.
He wants to first see condition of cylinder head once it’s off and then
" I have a set of triple carbs here, so a deal for yours against mine could work out." It would give you a talking point as it would be a 3.8S E-Type engine at around 265 BHP,and would look really cool"
And then he goes on about swoopy headers ?
What does he mean?
Sorry getting very confused about stuff.
Rob
So good day today, got a lot of stuff off the boat, distributer finaly came out. Got the raw water pump off, the oil cooler and oil filter housing.
When the oil filter canister came off, the little spring clip and spring just fell out, not sure how that came out now.
Oil cooler looks ok at first glance, but will give it a good clean.
Got the dynamo off, but will probably change out for a large alternator,it being a boat.
Cracked all the bell housing bolts, ready for removal, except one 9/16 that is absolutely solid, might need a bit of heat.
The engine mounts, front, are really corroded, might have to take disc cutter to them, as I want engine in garage,before it gets any colder.
Rob
Inside oil filter mount said 1958, and on the engine oil dipstick, it has 3.4/3.8. Why?
Rob
Oh and it’s an S on the end of my cylinder head number.
Rob
I’ve got a little green 2 in the top right of my page, what does it mean?
If I press on a box seems to open behind the bar at the top of page.
I don’t know
Please help
That means that that dipstick, and presumably the sump, were used on both the 3.8 and 3.4L models of your motor’s donor chassis. 1958 could be a production date, butI expect that the 1958 is a just a casting number. There should be an actual Tecalemit part number on the outside that would identify the model and year of the donor.
If the green 2 is in a rectangle, it means that you have two email messages from forum members. Clicking on the box should take you to them.
So the weekend is almost here, I’ve got my engine hoist at home, so hopefully going to lift the engine out this weekend.
Removing the head to see the condition is my priority,I have ordered a engine manual, but won’t be here until Thursday.
I want to keep the xk140 head and inlet manifold together.
I want to undo the cylinder head bolts, so I can get some penetrating fluid around/down the bolts.
Is there a sequence of undoing?
After reading lots of other posts on the forum, imknow this may take some time, but it’s winter here now and I have plenty of time.
I’ve been looking on the Martin Robey ( uk) website at rebuild parts possibly required, and I thought it was quite reasonable.
Don’t want to get my hopes up to much, just in case engine is shot.
I put the dynamo in the vice, and spun with the drill and no output.
Removed the end cap,after taking out the 2 long bolts,brushes had plenty on them, armature was dry, so I cleaned it all, put it all back together and still nothing. Not too bothered about it as I will replace for an alternator. Would be just nice to get it working. Any ideas?
The maranised oil cooler has cleaned up well and is holding pressure,the copper heat exchanger is also holding pressure and cleaned up a treat ( will add some pictures after weekend)
One thing that has been really obvious is how week the original jubilee clips are against the 316 stainless steel ones that have come off, with a quick clean, will be going back on, and the original ones straight in the bin.
The short hose from the oil pan to oil filter housing, was SO rock hard it snapped when I bent it in half, I couldn’t believe a hose could go that hard.
Once engine out, I’m going to put the boat, up my friends farm in the dry store until weather improves, give it a chance to really dry out.
Off to bed now, another busy weekend
Rob
Old rubber can turn into glass within 15 years or quicker. I would still swap in a running 4.2 for much less trouble and effortless running, less than £1000 and it will fit. Better parts too. The old one will take more than a winter, my guess. With the 4.2 ancillaries will bolt right up mostly and it’s complete. When you feel like it you can keep salvageable parts of the original unit and restore them for the next time or sell them one day.
For undoing you can start from the outside in reversing the tightening sequence if you feel better doing so.
I don’t know about the Dynamo but would take a multimeter to it.
Not being an expert,there is a 4.2 on eBay for 550 with a gear box,and the bell housing does look similar.BUT it’s fuel injection of some sort,it’s got a distributor,from what I can see.
Can I put a carb manifold and carbs on instead?
Or is this a better system than carbs?
Would I need lots of electronics, can’t be doing with all that.
I’m a diesel head at heart, and have a large cruiser motorboat with 2x 200hp Volvo penta sin it that I work on no problem.
Bought this little boat,as a side project
Cheers
The EFI is better, If all the components are in good shape, and you have the harnesses, relays, and ancillaries.
Yes, you can bolt on carbs, just like I did, to my S3 engine.
Fuel injection is better, gives you a few more horsepower and lower consumption. The Air flow meter is missing though, and the ECU, and the air filter. So, some work (I‘d say too much!), but you can put it all back on ebay for a few quid just like the transmission, maybe someone buys it.
The head has larger valves, better cams, 9:1 compression ratio and an easy to change oil filter cartridge and oil cooler.
It has an electronic distributor that works very well. All that you would want to keep as it’s an improvement.
Carbs will bolt straight up to this engine. The bellhousing will, too - you will need to have a look at the power transmission to the prop. 4.2s used twin HD8 / HS8 and Stromberg CD175 for export markets, as on Paul‘s engine. Triple HD8 or Webers are a bit more expensive and complicated to set up, but will be perfect. No need though, absolutely not. If it runs and not too far away or shipped, I‘d get it in a heartbeat.
There is no particular sequence, other than the usual 3 step, start in the middle and work your way out, alternating sides as you go.
Here are some of the technical pitfalls.
To remove the head, you first have to back off the adjuster and slacken the upper timing chain, See first photo.
Step 1: Remove the timing cover vent (yellow circle) - 4 bolts
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Step 2a: Locate the serrated upper chain adjuster plate (red arrow). Loosen the nut in the middle. I believe this nut may be the only Whitworth sized hex on/in the engine.
Step 2b: Locate the spring loaded adjuster plate locking pin (blue arrow) and fully depress it back into the support plate, disengaging it from the adjuster plate. With the pin depressed, rotate the adjuster plate (red arrow) to slacken the upper timing chain. This is easier if you have the official upper timing chain adjuster tool, but it can be done with only mild cursing without it.
Step 2c: Remove the two bolts that fix the cam flanges to the drive sprockets. The bolts were originally safety wired. You do not need to disturb the circlip that attaches the chain sprocket to the drive plate.
Step 2d: With the bolts removed, tap each chain, sprocket and drive plate assembly forward, disengaging them from the cams.
FROM THIS POINT FORWARD, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT!
Step 2e: Slide the two timing chain sprockets to the center of the travel, and wire them together. (Green arrow)
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Just in case Mike didn’t explain well enough…
FROM THIS POINT FORWARD, UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT!
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