The bullet connector seems OK.
I am working alone, so can’t be certain there is no click when I turn the key “on,” but I get no click when I then disconnect and reconnect.
If instead of switching the key I jumper battery + to coil + there is no click initially nor when I unplug and replug the bullet connector.
So it seems to me the six injectors are getting no instructions.
That won’t work, Henry; without ign ‘on’ the ECU is not powered up - nor any power to the injectors. The white/black and bullet connector is just a signal wire to a powered up ECU…
Working alone you need a visual signal. Disconnect an injector plug and connect a small test lamp, where it can be seen, between the two wires on the plug. Turn ign ‘on’; the lamp should flash briefly - then stay unlit. Turn to ‘crank’; the lamp should flicker while the engine is turning…
Leave ign ‘on’ and repeat disconnect/connect at the bullet. As the ECU fires the injectors once every engine revolution by ignition signal; only every 3rd connection triggers injectors - so repeat as required…
If there is no test lamp reaction;
No power to ECU or injectors. Connect the test lamp,
ign ‘on’, to ground from one of the plug wires at a
time - the lamp should be fully lit from a powered
wire. If not…hm…
The black/white does not connect to ECU.
Disconnect bullet, ign ‘on’, and connect test lamp
between bullet (coil side) and ground. Lamp should
be lit - if not; break between coil and bullet.
With ign ‘off’; ohm between the other (disconnected)
bullet (ECU end and ground. If you have resistance;
the connection is continuous. If ‘0’ ohm, there is a
short (unlikely) - if ‘1’, there is a break.
Faulty ECU. Testing with another ECU is really the
only option.
‘Something’ else…oh well - we’ll keep trying…
Hopefully something will show up?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
This might’ve already been mentioned…
At the rear of the water rail is a bundle of black ground/earth wires…about 6 or so…under a bolt. The entire fuel injection system grounds at this point. Make sure none of the wires are dangling in mid-air and that it’s a good, clean, tight earth point.
An actual fuel pressure test might be in your future.
Cheers
DD
Hallelujah! It is running!
Well, eventually it seemed the injectors were not being activated at all. I wondered how the ECU was powered and found that the main relay turned it on. But the white wire which was supposed to turn it on had zero volts. That voltage comes through the inertia switch. I found 12 volts on both sides of that, but that somehow lost its way to the main relay. As I started to follow the wire, I was reminded of the little never-used anti-theft toggle switch in the glove box, which was crudely spliced in series with that sacred white wire. Sure enough it had been hit by a manual or something in the glove compartment and turned off. I turned it on and miraculously now found 12 volts on the white wire to our beloved main relay.
The engine still wouldn’t run (beyond that second or two thanks to the cold start injector).
This next part will probably be hard to believe. There was 12 volts across the coil of the main relay; there was 12 volts on the input ready to be switched, but no output on its output. The main relay was bad, and half an hour and $22 later, the engine ran just fine.
I cannot explain how that relay died, apparently during all my electrical poking around - looking for the problem which was that switch in the glove compartment. But definitely it did not work until I replaced it.
It has been a wonderful experience having all you folks helping me. Thank you all.
Henry (86 XJ6 Maine)
Thank you, Henry, for telling us! As I said; it would be obvious once found…
The kudos goes to you and your persistence! But to be fair, also some blame for not mentioning the antitheft switch. Which protracted the process by misdirecting focus; being an unknown agency that caused confusing symptoms and responses to tests…
However, that is just a sop for me - and certainly does not detract from your commendable efforts and success. After all, you did the work - well done…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Henry,
Congratulations on resolving your no start problem and for posting your findings. That helps the collective knowledge.
It is interesting that some of the recent difficult to sort out problems are due at least in part to modifications from the original design by owners or their shops. I normally assume that the car in question is as it left the factory and start my recommendations with that assumption. Maybe in the future the first thing I should ask is “what modifications have been made to your car?” and consider those modifications to be guilty until proven innocent?
Paul
Incidentally, here is what my all-important MAIN RELAY looked like inside:
Well, can’t figure how to send a photo, but it was a totally rusty corroded mess.
Reason enough for spontaneous failure, Henry…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Wow, that’s the worst I’ve ever seen !
Cheers
DD
Henry,
Thank you for posting that picture. I have disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and returned to use dozens of relays in my Jaguars over the past 22 years and I have never seen one that bad.
Attached is a picture of the original 53 year old Lucas 6RA Starter Relay from my 1969 E-Type that I recently cleaned up because my starter appeared a little lazy. The contacts were black with tarnish but the relay was otherwise very good and the starter appears to be operating better after the relay contact cleaning.
Paul
“How did it happen?”
The car of course has a fitting hood (bonnet - actually that’s a cute term). What I suspect is worth learning is that in all probability this was caused by the relay hanging downward because the plastic clip on the side of the socket was broken. There is one other (fuel pump) which I think I’ll replace and try to find a way - maybe cable tie? - to keep them “umbrella-up.”
Wow, I made major modificaions to my car!!!
and indeed, it was one of thse details that failed the last time. A solder joint went bad???
CHJ
I made a rack for the many relays in my lump. No tin elays, only sealed plastic univeral units.
Along with a ground bus. All but one of the black wire grounds go to the bus, It in turn is gunded tothe ground post on th right wing.
works well.
CHj
Henry,
This picture shows the Pektron Diode Pack and the adjacent Main and Fuel Pump relays mounted on the firewall in our former 1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas circled in red.
Paul
Henry,
If you search the internet for “5 Way Lucas Rists Relay Holder” or similar wording you will find a number of sources for new Rists plastic connectors in a variety of colors.
Paul
Hi my experience with this stalling issue I solved it using a 2.1 8,23 omhs coil by 123. This company is base in Holland 
…. Very sensitive to voltage them cars I’m not saying this is your problem but with me I could drive 140 miles on this other low omhs coil she’d cut out when slowing down & not start when hot …. Took me a year & a half to solve it I had a few issues…. Between a bad relays , I can recommend ATC drive train U.K. re conditioning them air flow meters
I also by passed the fuel cut switch , that’s the coil I personally recommend when them original Lucas ignitions very sensitive to voltage them cars ……
A somewhat strange statement, DavidB - the AB14 CE system, or indeed mechanical points, is not sensitive to voltages, and will run perfectly on almost any coil…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
