My “new” XJR has been sitting in storage for almost three months. When I went to start it yesterday afternoon the battery was completely dead. I put a charger on it and left it overnight. This morning the battery is topped off and it cranks just fine…but no start. I’m clueless about this car…do I have to disconnect the battery for a while to reset the brain? My friend drove it from the transporter to the storage building when it arrived in July and it started and ran just fine. Help!
Well my friend lets go slow…
TOWING is not on your list now?
STOP CRANKING THE CAR.
If we recall your tensioners and guides were changed correct?
Next was the FUEL PUMPS?
Once you answer those we move on.
GTJOEY1314
The only thing that happened between the car coming off the transporter, being driven around the block, and then parked is the battery discharging. These cars have failures just sitting dormant? Holy crap…what have I gotten myself into…
The engine has metal tensioners and guides. OK, should I hear a fuel pump humming when I turn on the key? I don’t hear anything like that at the moment. The car does seem to fire on maybe one cylinder when I first crank it after letting it sit for a while. I’m heading out to check the fuel pump fuse…
Good…
Tensioners are done!
So we are not destroying the engine.
Your down to pumps which is very common or something else
Do you have an obd2?
It would tell you right away or a Schafer valve to piss fuel
Check that and pm your cell number
Good luck
Gtjoey
While you are there. Try removing relay for fuel pump 1. This will force it to use pump2.
See if that one works better
Well, I tried removing the relay for pump one and got nothing from pump 2. Checked its fuse, and it was blown. Replaced its fuse and tried again…fuse did not blow, but no noise from a running pump. So then I pulled both 20 amp fuses (the ones after the relays) and hot jumped battery voltage to each of the four spade receptacles for the fuses thinking one of them had to be the wire directly to the pump(s) and I should hear a pump whirring. Nothing (hearing aids turned up to max). I’ll buy an OBD2 tomorrow, I guess. 38,000 mile car with two dead fuel pumps?
By the way, is the computer actually smart enough to switch to pump 2 when pump 1 quits?
Don’t get down…
Just try one thing
Can you pull the battery cables off for a half hour then reinstall?
It’s a long shot but…I’ve seen it
99 percent its the pumps but maybe you hit the fuel inertia switch?
Just try it…
Either way on all modern cars from a 308 up the pumps are submerged in ethanol gasoline
They run fine after sitting for months but once all the pieces crumble side they implode
Very very common…
Never happened on an xj6 though!
I’m breaking you shoes😘
The blowing relay is the strain on the pump from the crap!
Gtjoey13-4
Ps it comes with a new sock as well
I’ll try pulling the cables again…did it for about ten minutes this morning, but will let it sit longer.
Does the Rev counter show about 250 rpm whilst cranking? If not check out/change theCKPS.
Also if it spins over almost silently when you try to start it, it could be lack of compression through washdown due to not previously reaching temperature after a cold start. If so remove all the spark plugs and squirt a little oil into each bore or try prolonged cranking with a WOT of about 30 seconds each time until the oil pressure builds up.
Neil, Yes, the tach get up off the peg a bit. Roll over sounds about right.
GTJoey, I located the inertia switch and it doesn’t feel like it was popped. Also reconnected cables and tried start after 30 minute wait. Couldn’t find a Schroeder valve for the fuel rail up on the engine to see if there’s pressure, but then I’m not sure the supercharged engine even has one. I downloaded a manual a while back…the search is on…
But it seems like hot wiring the pump power wire to the battery probably tells the story.
There were many instances over the years where X308 fuel pumps failed when the innards disintegrated possibly due to ethanol in the fuel, this seemed to occur only in countries like the US who added ethanol.
Yes…
These pumps are the same as the Lincoln and many other ford products of the day.
The replacement Bosch cost very little at ANY auto parts store
The bitch is putting them in!
If the car sat at a dealer for months and months then his house for months
It’s the perfect storm for that issue
Change the filters and all and LOTS of fresh gas and all we be alright!
Any modern car sits with ethanol and it its all over within 5 months
Good luck
Eric
Gtjoey1314
This car sat around a lot when the owner had it, then it sat when the consignment dealer had it, and then it sat at my place for several months. And then they went and loaded it on the transporter truck with the low fuel light on, so there was very little fuel sloshing around at the bottom of the tank and likely stirring up bottom crud as the vehicle went up and down the ramps on the trailer. Yes, I’m not surprised if the pumps are dead. My last checks today are to see if the fuel rail is pressurized, and probably pull a spark plug.
Question 1: If the primary pump is bad, why isn’t the fuse blown?
Question 2: Are the two pumps for a 2002 XJR mounted in two separate access holes in the tank, or are they together on a single assembly (one mounting flange)? I ask because I’ve been contemplating cutting a hole in the parcel shelf instead of dropping the tank. I intend to keep this car until my dirt nap…maybe get buried in it. If this is a recurring issue, I want to make access absolutely certified geezer friendly. I think I can make the whole thing invisible with some very careful interior disassembly/prep and careful cuts with a Dremel.
They burn up from straining…to push fuel through.
They burn up when lean.
Half the trunk comes out to get to the pumps.
GTJOEY1314
FOOTNOTE, Astons such as the DB9 using the same series pumps had issues when the fuel was LOW and didn’t have sufficient pressure would BURN up the motors as well.!
DB9 fans would keep a minimuim of 1/4 tank all the time.
Some questions…
- I’m thinking about going in from the top to replace the pumps. Any thoughts (see photo).
-
I can’t find a photo of how the two pumps fit inside the tank. Are they both in fact accessible via the one access port at the top, middle of the tank? Do they remove/reinstall to that tophat, or are the top hat and pumps are preassembled part?
-
In my research I’ve seen reference to special tools Jd205 and JD175. I believe both are for disconnecting various fuel fittings. If I need then…where do I get them?
-
Factory pumps are about $250 each from the usuals. Aftermarket from the “usuals” about $50. What about offerings from Autozone, for example?
-
What is a “stuffer pin” used for? Is it necessary to have one (or more if I do the hack job on the parcel tray area?
-
Anybody have a link to an illustrated blow by blow disassembly. The factory shop manual is a little short on illustrations.
Thanks
Yeah…THAT AINT ME. I’m not in the mood at this age to BACK off the collar with tools that can create a spark and go boom…
That’s why all our Aston guys pay the 5 grand to get it done!
In jaguar world its probably 1 grand all in with labor.
Your call but both pumps are incorporated in that unit.
Wish you luck.
Don’t go boom, I’m waiting for it to be done so you can trailer my xk120 around 
gtjoey1314
I just called my jag mechanic…yes its around a grand and your done.
Hundreds …probably thousands of people do this “little” job (multiple times on the same car, I suspect) without blowing up. And the tank will have fumes in it no matter if it’s done from the top or the bottom. But you make a good point about using plastic/nylon chisels to knock that ring loose.
Now, what the hell is a stuffer pin, and do I need one if I do this job via the parcel shelf?
There are several you tubes on line - this is one:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKbrNzAsuVk
The most difficult part is the very tight access to disconnect the fuel lines with the “special tool” - otherwise pretty straightforward. Take your time.
Professional labour for the job should be about 4 hours.
Frankie
I think the special tools are required when removing the tank, To disconnect the lines under the car. (as it’s tight for space)
I removed the back seat and cut an access hole in the parcel tray/shelf with a Dremel this morning. Predrilled some holes for support tabs when I reassemble. Removed the “top hat” access assembly earlier this afternoon. The short vent hoses were very difficult to remove…hate those spring clips and will replace with screw clamps. Anyway, fuel is currently syphoning out of the tank and into a fuel jug. The pumps come out in the morning…it’s close to 100F in the storage area in the afternoon.
The top access method took longer than I expected because the seat back has the retracting shoulder harness mechanisms, which get in the way. Would have been fairly easy with a helper. Then I discovered that the tray was blocked by the harness retractor devices. One of the outboard units had to be removed. It should go back together very quickly. The cutout seams will be sealed once it’s screwed back onto the new fixing tabs. I’ll use replacement pumps from one of the local auto parts stores if they fit the brackets, and if the power plugs are the same as OEM (no modifications). Any recommendations?
This method was clearly easier on an old body than crawling around under the car and muscling the tank in and out of the boot…but don’t think it was much faster. Should be a snap next time around.