So far I’ve spent 20 hours of fixing dodgy work of PO
Today I got frustrated again by PO dodgy work ….spent another 4 hours fixing the reaction plate mounting bolt and frame fixing bolts …. The reaction plate side bolts were just rammed in so the had to be rammed out and there was no frame bolts in place at the frame to chassis rails …… you can guess why …… loosened front frames sorted the frame bolts then had to fettle the 1/2” holes to make the bolt go in straight and not catching on misaligned bracket …… all sorted …. Fitted rh front suspension and torsion bar. I had always borrowed the “ torsion bar tool “ for height setting …… today I made one …. However being very careful I measured three times and cut once ….but is no good if your not using correct dimensions to start with…… bugger off to get more stock …. This time perfect .
I also made myself a set of “bullet tapered “ rods for the reaction plate removal …very happy with them…… made from old dizzy shafts turned on the lathe.
Tomorrow should be better I’ve fixed the reaction plate issues. LH front suspension and tortion bar install
Engine and gearbox to be mated tomorrow …… insulate the gearbox tunnel
Yes Danny, excellent idea. I have done that before with good results, as long as you buy a Shaftsbury diff and not a Dana, as the brake caliper bracket mounts are different for E type brackets.
They used to be readily available for £500. Now I am not so sure. Supply has started to dry up. Rebuild cost was less than £100 for seals and bearings. I have an engineer up the road who sets them up beautifully for me.
It would be nice to keep my original casing. I have now been promised a 2.88 crown wheel and pinion for the cost of some beer, so I will let you know if it fits.
I have fitted a 2.88 set into a 4ha diff, as fitted to my XK120, so I feel hopeful.
Front end back together all new bearings rotors ball joints etc …waiting on plater for calliper brackets …… torsion bars in and set ……next up brake hard lines to front and rear and fuel lines from back ….test fit the irs cradle to make sure no more bodgy stuff at the rear end ! Then build it back up
I believe it’s called E-shield or E coating. A type of electroplate, from what I can gather. I bought a set of rotors for a Lotus a few years ago, and it really seems to help the non swept areas of the rotor to remain rust free.
Dino, in the same situation…hardtop painted and interior done. But I just cannot get the plexiglass in correctly without gaps. Keep me posted please. And where did you take it ? Not many folks out there with this experience…Where did you get your sealing rubber ? thx
The front seal gave up the ghost close to the airport. I was worried about driving it home so I figured I’d just replace in the hangar. I had a bit of time today so I put the old girl up on jack stands and drained the oil. Hoping to get all apart this weekend.
I need a new mechanic’s creeper. The one I’d been using before finally broke. It might have been 50 years old. Any suggestions?
