Yep!
On smooth concrete, I much prefer big pieces of cardboard. They work better, take up less room, and are directly absorbent of oil.
Yep!
On smooth concrete, I much prefer big pieces of cardboard. They work better, take up less room, and are directly absorbent of oil.
Iāve done that too but the floor gets wet every time it rains. It will be a lot nicer than working in the garage with the lumpy asphalt floor - thatās for sure!!!
Hello Sandy,
The disc does not really produce dust, more like paint chunks-that do not become airborne. Nothing like as much as an orbital sander, unless you hit filler. Then their will be plenty of dust, however it will be removed from the panel very quickly.
There are some essential recommendations I would make if you have never done it before!
Safety-
You have to remove your grinder guard to fit the disc. Fine-however, you must wear welding gloves and a full face mask. It is not essential to wear an air filter mask as well, however if chunks come off the disc, they will travel at 200 mph, so be careful. You must wear ear defenders too as it is very noisy.
Edges
Be mindful of the direction of rotation of the disc, especially when going near metal edges and flanges. If not, you risk the disc coming apart, the grinder jumping uncontrollably or destruction of the edge. Always make sure you grind off an edge- not into it.
Watches
Remove your watch, if you like it.
Control
Use the handle on the grinder.
I have removed the paint from many cars quickly using this method. 15 discs should do a whole car. For the tight corners, use paint stripper, small wire wheels on a drill or 80 grit.
If you keep your head, you should be fine. It is quite hard work.
Grinder and gloves?
Definitely protect eyes and lungs always.
For the cost?
It had better bl*w me.
One would be much better served by just buying a BendPak lift!
Just donāt do like I did, many, many years agoā¦
I had to go remove a differential from one of my parts Rovers, for mine, when it got stolen, and the thieves broke the differential.
It was a warm August day, and I went out in my back 40, where all the parts cars were, and threw a piece of old corrugated fiberglass down on the ground to slide around on to remove the differential.
That was when I found out about taking cold showersā¦
James,
Your rate of progress is admirable. Are the coarse blue nylon paint stripping discās the kind you use?
Donāt know how fancy of creeper youāre looking for, but I have one of these and like it a lot. Simple, rolls fine on reasonably smooth surfaces, low profile, and cleans up easily.
Iāve always liked Lisle products. They make nice sturdy tools and devices. Since I may not get a lift again when we land somewhere, this will be a nice addition.
Yes Wayne, they look fine to me. Purple seem OK too.
I think Iāll pick up something like one of those heavy plastic creepers.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/automotive-accessories/creepers-seats/37-in-400-lb-capacity-premium-creeper-black-58588.html
Thereās a slim chance Iāll be moving. A garage with a solid concrete floor is a must have. Kitchens, bedrooms, bathrooms, etc. are all optional.
If you had to work like that everyday, one of those chairs would be a good investment.
Not for everyone I know, but I use an old mattress pad.
Itās cheap, somewhat padded, easy to store, easy to maneuver, catches fluid drips, is washable, and limits the ābounceā of dropped small parts.
On the downside, it can sometimes get wrapped up/wadded up when youāre flailing around, struggling with a difficult job under the car.
When the one Iām currently using wears out, I may try one of the cheap Harbor Freight moving blankets I picked up.
Iād be fine with that or card board but the floor get soaked when it rains. Itās an old hangar. The taxiway out front has been redone few times so now itās slightly higher than the hangar floor so water just runs right in. As bad as that sounds, Iām very lucky to have a hangar. They can be very hard to find.
Iāve had several cheap creepers, useless junk if you get one get a decent one . Im presently using the pads from some old lawn chairs we threw out. As a rule I just throw on the coveralls and get to it one of the perks of going over the front of my skies in powder My floors are kept clean with Big sheets of card board from appliance boxes there Polished cement a luxury the other being a hoist which I donāt have .
Iāve also got black and white tile in a garage ,real shade tree for parking on but not very functional for my operation the jacks wreck it and most everything else that comes off a repair job
Cheers
James,
I was dreading getting the tub media blasted, quite a few horror stories over here from the classic car fraternity. This way Iāve got some control, and with the amount of steel that will be removed it wonāt seem such a daunting task stripping the āsableā paint offā¦ I also have new door skins to go on. And a new gas tank ordered after a quick peek inside the old one with a bore scope.
Thanks for your help and knowledge!!
No problem,
I do get loads of parts blasted, suspension bits and the like. I am just not that keen on whole body shell and large sheet steel panels.
The way I attack things, any rusty/ crusty sheet steel tends to get replaced anyway, removing paint is pretty quick with the discs. No sparks.
I would have no trouble getting the doors blasted, especially if you are fitting new skins. That would save a load of time.
I dont think I have ever bothered reusing an old petrol tank for an E type as they are so affordable new.
Decided to do a Magnaflux test on my cam oil feed pipe to figure out where it leaking on the intake side. Besides some of the run off from the penetrant there is this one spot that is catching my attention. It would appear to be a crack but its in the thickest area which would be unlikely in my opinion.
Thoughts ?