Sorry for doubling up on the replies…I didn’t think the response went through…l’ll get there in the end…
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It will take a huge amount of, as the British Collett, “fettling!”
You will definitely need to have the body on a rotisserie to do all those panel replacements.
I don’t have the space for the body work at the moment. Hence the engine first, that would have to be stripped and checked anyway. But I will need some info on the proper bracing technique of the tub before removing the floor, sills etc. Do you think Robey possibly boobeb on one of the transmission side panels??? maybe one fits another earlier model.
Your right, a rotiserie will be needed, I see a few different ideas out there but I don’t want to invent the wheel . Luckily we have good steel supply houses locally here in Florida all within an hour travel. Be nice to get the plans/dwgs together before getting there.
Replacement panels rarely fit right, often this is not even the panels‘ fault as the cars themselves are imperfect. I‘m sure you know that you must at least stiffen up the structure of the monocoque for the work before you cut away anything, otherwise nothing will ever fit. And 4.2 models are 4.2 models, no need to change anything that doesn’t need changing. It’s still the same structure as the first e type with some ‚upgrades‘. Doesn’t mean that there is no error but this fitment could be all you can get.
If you have the resources you‘re good, otherwise make sure funds and happiness don’t run out after the easy things (drive train) are restored…
The search function, top right, will give you everything you want to know. Add #e-type to your search query to filter out the other Jaguar models.
Have a look at @politeperson posts recently on the “what did you do today” thread maybe he has a drawing or could help you with dimensions etc
Doug, when you removed the carbs and manifolds was there any pitting with the corrosion around the studs/bolts?.
Perfect!!! just what I was looking for.
Maybe a small amount of pitting behind the carbs:
The inlet to the secondary manifold didn’t show any real pitting:
The inlet to the head looked surprisingly good as did the outlet of the secondary manifold:
The corrosion on my engine was worst on the coolant outlet and nipple adapter to the heater core.
Thanks for the pics, all in all everything looks like it will clean up fine! I hope I have the same results.
more “cruel and unusual punishment” from Jag Agony
Yes Wiggles, It needs the works. It would take me at least 2 weeks if I had all the panels.
It would be a fearful undertaking, if it were not for the excellent parts supply situation for E types.
That Tunnel looks like it will clamp together.
For the home restorer who is considering replacing the bottom 10 inches of an E type my advice would be to go for it. These are in a random order.
- Read all Chucks articles on the Monocoque Metalwork site and watch his excellent videos on Youtube. He is the man.
2)Make sure you have a decent workshop with a decent MIG, metal forming tools, lift. You will not need to do much metal forming, as hopefully you will have the panels.
3)Buy the large one piece floor incorporating the foot-wells, cross member, floor supports and sills as it is already jigged. Chucks and Robeys are excellent products. The one piece boot floor with the sides is also excellent if you need it. I guess you could use the parts separately if you measure carefully. - Tight door gaps kill projects dead. Check your door gaps and measure the A to B post distances to ensure they are withing 1mm of each other. Now is the time to sort that out. Remember, all E types seem to have been crashed at some point, altering the geometry. Make a simple door gap jig for each side to ensure perfect alignment when you are putting it back together.
5)Turn your welder up to ensure good weld penetration. - Make yourself a rotisserie with wheels like mine. A central tube connecting the two ends of the rotisserie together is a good idea, especially when doing roadsters.
- You cannot have too much bracing, however you can put it in locations that make it difficult to access welding points.
- Dont bother sending it off for media blasting or dipping. From what I can see of your car, much of the bottom of it will end up in the skip anyway. Use plastic stripping discs and wire brushes or / and paint stripper when it comes to it.
9)Buy an whole pack (at least 10) x 8mm spot weld drill bits on Ebay. Make sure you have a good cordless drill, a seam splitter, and at least 3 separate cheap angle grinders for a 1mm cutting disc, a flap wheel for grinding and a wire brush attachment. Use a large 9 inch cutting disc for sectioning the floor otherwise you wi take forever to remove it. Always think about your seams. - Buy a joggler/ hole punch. When you have punched the holes enlarge then before welding to 1/4 inch.
- Purchase a die grinder with burr wheels for getting into those corners.
- Buy a good rechargeable LED magnetic lamp. A good one.
Loads of members of the forum can offer you excellent advice if you get stuck.!
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Looking over your excellent list of suggestions, I can’t possibly think of anything else to add… Except money. 
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Thanks for the super comprehensive list, I feel like I’m going to war and will need all the ammunition I can get. The body work will have to wait a bit, the drawings for the workshop should be in my hands this week, so it will be a little while before I get in there,…At least I don’t have to dig frost footings in this region.
I just took some more pics of the transmission tunnel, and on closer inspection you can see where the mistake was made… I have to send pic from my phone…
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You can see where the initial mark was made that would match the other half… but !!!/!/!/ I sent a pic to Martin Robey. They are back Tuesday??
All I can find are crappy ones. Where did you find a good one?
Good lamp for the head and cheap magnetic lamps because inevitably one will end up somewhere on the road after a test drive.
My son got me a set of these for Christmas. They work very well in tight spaces and with 4 lamps on 2 hands the shadows are mostly eliminated.
Rick OBrien
65 FHC inFL
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As politeperson mentioned, the bottom of the car will end up in the dumpster (skip), and also solved the problem when, and if to media blast. List (now pinned on the wall) mentions a good LED light, totally agree, older you get the more light you need! And you don’t have to buy expensive ones either, as they will be dropped. And remember to dip your head mounted light when your wife brings in the tea😁. All the panels I have are separate, with complete separate floor panels for the right and left side. A couple of questions…
The rear number plate area is fairly solid, should the rotisserie attach there or underneath to the diff assembly mounting area.
When on the rotisserie, is it recommended to remove the sills and floor from one side completely and replace with new panels, then proceed to the other side and do the same. Checking measurements as you proceed.
The inside of the tub will be braced before any work takes place.
Trying to work ahead, I’m looking to start putting a material list together for the rotisserie, would the basic design also fit an S3 2+2.
Thanks for any input.