Many thanks folks. I am using the original bolts that came off the car so will take a closer look at the underside to make sure they are raised. I may go with some washers as this will be a driver and my guess is I will be removing the frame again in future for one reason or another.
Jay
It’s JL: it’s a given.
Good advice. It takes many months for fillers and heavier applications of primers and paints to flash off their volatiles entirely and till they do are compressible. Torquing down the subframe assembly on a fresh, heavy finish presses the material under the mount thinner, at the same time pushing a fraction of the displaced material outward. This will manifest as a slight bubble and loss of adhesion around the mount, which is the last thing you want to happen in a paint job.
Jay, I agree washers are more help than harm, especially for a driver. Be aware that McMaster offers a vast array of hardware, including washers. Within the washer category, there are also many options. You can get bright zinc and black. Some even come in cadmium. Also the pure stainless washers tend to be a little thinner. Once you get down to clicking on a line item on their website, there is usuallly an option to look at a CAD drawing. You may be able to find some whose OD is smaller and thus less intrusive. In this application, you do not need high strength washers, as the holes in the engine frame mounting brackets are just barely oversized from the OD of the bolt. High strength washers are generallly only required in a high torque connection where you are also trying to bridge over an oversized or slotted hole. The high strength washers will be clunkier and thus more obvious to the eye.
If your goal is to protect the paint, as noted above on those with a loose nut on the back side you can hold the bolt head from turning. On those with a captive nut, you will have to turn the bolt head. A trick is to put a dab of lubricant on the underside of the bolt head so the bolt head spins on the washer, not the washer on the paint.
Good luck!
That’s a great tip and I think the way I will do it with the captive nut bolts.
Many Thanks
Jay
Managed to get the engine frames fitted this weekend. I did have the original bolts with the raised circle underneath so rated one out without a washer and did not cause any problems so went ahead and did the others. Only one I did not put in yet are the upper right/left bolt as it looks like the bolt is too long to fit without catching the frames. Any tips ?
Jay
I’m guessing “Ramesh” is “frames” autocorrected, not some Hindu deity?
You will need to remove the picture frame and trapeze, put those two bolts in place through their respective holes in both frame members and then offer them up to the engine frames. It’s the only way to do it.
Not sure which bolts you are referring to here, but it’s worth noting that several of the frame rail bolts serve double duty - i.e. they secure additional items. Off the top of my head, here are several:
2 of the 4 bolts that secure the inboard upper passenger side flange to the bulkhead also secure mounting clips/brackets for the clutch pipe.
1 of the 4 bolts that secure the inboard upper driver side flange to the bulkhead also secures a mounting clip for the clutch pipe
1 of the 4 bolts that secure the outboard upper passenger side flange to the bulkhead also secures the fuel filter bracket
2 of the bolts that pass through the bonnet frame and the picture frame and the engine frames at the top, also secure brackets that secure the top radiator braces. The bad new with these bolts is that you can’t remove them without removing the bonnet frame, as they need to be angled to avoid hitting the top tubes of the bonnet frame as you pull them out.
There may be others that I’ve missed. Hope this helps.
-David
,Jay;
If I remember correctly the bolts you refer to in your post are supposed to be inserted from the backside of the picture frame and the nuts on the front side.
Regards, Joel.
That’s what I was thinking Nickolas but did not want to remove it all again unless I had to. I guess second time will be easier but may just leave them out for now until after I fit the bonnet and compete the final bodywork.
Jay
The bolts that also secure the radiator braces are the ones below the vacant holes in your photo.
Or, as an option for these radiator support brackets you can slot the bracket on the frame side, loosen the bolt, slide the bracket onto the bolt, and tighten. Nearly invisible and more than sufficient strength to support the radiator fore/aft.
Like this:
The following article has been around for years. I found a copy on my harddrive. I assume it is fair game to link to this thread? It gives excellent detail on all the bolting required at both ends of the engine frames.
subframe bolt diagram-Steve Kemp.pdf (183.6 KB)
This may also help.
Bolts.pdf (206.3 KB)
As with many topics of discussion in the E-type forum, this one’s been covered before. The trick is knowing how to plumb the archives to find the information you need, though this is one of those “you don’t know what you don’t know” things.
As David suggests, best to take the hour or so now to do the job and get it out of the way, including the rad supports brackets in the process.
Picked up my reconditioned gearbox today ready to go back into the car in a few months. Will add some oil and store it for now.
Jay
Managed to get the hood bolted up at the weekend and attached it to the car this evening. Going to need some adjustment but good to see the car back together again.
Jay
Hi Jay…have you rememberd to fit the spacers between the lower side frames and the picture frame…they dont look look like they are there in the photo above…Steve
Looking good, Jay. As I recall getting to the same point it took many more hours to achieve the very best fit. Patience. You’re almost there.
I only have one spacer that was originally there so need to source another one. Does anyone have a part number or a source for this as I have not found in the usual’s catalogues or spare parts manual ?
I do have the lower suspension blocks in place to support the lower frame.
jay
