Either way can work. The bell is a bit fiddly on the XJS with the heat shields and starter adding to the mix. Also with this approach you can’t always get the tail of the trans up high enough to let the nose slide straight in. (I removed the shifter.). I don’t think it can be done on a s1 or 2 eType, for example. But, when you can do the bell first the four trans bolts are an easy reach for the final step.
All I can say is when this is all done, I hope you or someone you know writes a book on the entire thing, because this thread has convinced me there is so much I do not know!
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IIRC – and it’s been a minute, quite probably I don’t RC – the tranny bolted to my bellhousing with four bolt heads inside the bellhousing.
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This thread has convinced me that if I ever want to convert to a 5 speed manual, PAY someone. Luckily there’s an outfit near me in Idaho that does this professionally.
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I would have to agree with that sentiment Greg! He has done an exceptional job of pictorial and verbiage documentation. I think perhaps he studied at the feet of Bernard Emblem and Ed Sowell ? Regardless, it is a great thread to follow. I don’t plan to convert but love the thread
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Thanks all! My Dad wrote several articles on gun smithing, and a couple on his Jag that I need to repost. I have his sense of humor. My mom is a teacher. I do enjoy writing about interesting stuff.
Regarding the level of effort… remember this is 1/3 of the project. You will need to swap the pedal box, which if you are simply going from auto to manual is not that hard, and you need to re-gear the rear diff (assuming you have 2.88.). The re-gear itself is best left to a pro like Dick Maury, but you might as well refresh the seals and bearings in the cage while it’s out. I did not document the cage rebuild, thats been documented a few times now. I did each about 6 months apart.
I have see that setup before and that could definitely be the case.
Trans mount and center heat shields in.
Driveline in. Yeah I know not that exciting but it kinda felt like a milestone. My rear cage still has the build sticker and serial number. That should be concours points.
Kevin is off this afternoon so Rodney is filling in as Shop Dog
Need to refer to my checklist but I think I about ready to bleed the clutch. That is the big milestone.
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Well, part of what makes for a good Internet thread is learning from somebody else’s screw ups. Today I am that somebody.
Good news: the bearing bled out nicely, we have a really nice peddle, with a release point maybe a couple inches off the floor or less, which is exactly where I want it. Doesn’t even look like I will have to move my clutch pedal stop. We determined the release point by putting the trans in gear and rotating the driveline while Rene ran the clutch pedal in and out slowly so I could feel where the clutch freed up.
Bad news: I have a leak at the throwout bearing.
Good news: it’s not because the bearing failed. It’s because I was stupid. The female fittings in the bearing are in NPT. I totally spaced taping them. In my defense, I was living in the land of -3AN and taper fittings, which of course you don’t tape. Stupid stupid stupid.
So, for our next act we are going to pull the trans back out. I bet I can do it in an hour. 
Looks like Rodney is doing a proper “shop dog” job
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I just must say you have done a fantastic job of recording this swap. To take pictures and follow through with detailed info is a gift. Many folks (I included) start down these roads but never take time (don't have time which is BS) to record what is going on (good or not so good).
Your ABC thinking is something to be very proud of. Congratulations to you.
Now comes testing. The fun part, scary but scary satisfying.
I am currently on a similar journey.
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Yes, that is exactly what I have learned. This thread is incredibly well documented, it’s all the things I don’t know that would kill the thing. “Just mount the bell housing”. Yes, I can do that. “Don’t forget to make sure it’s concentric”… I had no idea.
Where is that place in Idaho? I might need that…
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I can feel your pain.
It’s always after you’ve put in the last screw that you see a problem 60 screws back…
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What do you gather your total parts bill will be in the end (not including the pedal box)?
Beautiful work, you need a YouTube channel 
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Thanks! I will itemize and list at the end but all in with pedal box and diff and ECU mods I think about $6k.
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Thanks Bob, great posts. Good and bad news. I guess my takeaway is I guess I’m just going with the original set up in my car. Maybe a shift kit or something.
The other news is I guess I’m still on the hunt for another car that comes with a six speed installed. Hopefully 1000lbs lighter that can be a sportier drive. I’ll just keep the XJ-S as the highway cruiser.
Also you reminded me all that work you did is above my pay grade. I would probably be one of those guys that managed to yard out the original transmission, with 2000 parts on my garage floor not knowing how to put it all back together again.
Hi Gary-
Putting in a transmission that was never intended to be there is a fun challenge. If you break it into a bunch of “sub systems” it’s not that bad 
. I want it done but I am really under no pressure. I am probably going to jinx myself, but I hope to have it back on the road this weekend. My evenings this week are filled with non-car stuff so I have not got back to it. However, after 10 years of complaining I did finally order new casters (that are actually round!!) for my creeper, so that’s big progress.
Fast manual cars are the best. You need to get that Vette! What’s the status on the search? My 6-speed “boy racer” car (@DavetheLimey ) is a 2016 Mustang with a nice Roush setup. It’s a little stealth (except that it is very loud) in that the Roush work was done by the dealer so it’s not an official “Roush Mustang” it just has all the stuff (blower, ECU, intercooler, rear exhaust, headers from Texas Speed, Roush suspension) I found it as-is on CraigsList (where I have no business being) and paid about half what the guy spent to build it with less than 10K miles. For once in my life I was on the right side of a car deal. It makes a smidge over 600rwhp on the dyno. I have had more, um, “conversations” with the local Gendarme in the 3 years I have owned that car than in the previous 10 years. No matter how crappy of a day you have had, a bit of wheel time in that car will put a smile on your face.
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The place in Idaho is called Vintage Jag Works. I have no idea about them, nor affiliation.
They seem to do conversions for XJS, mainly relying on the Tremec TKO 550.
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Apologies Bob, didn’t mean to hijack your thread. Yes I am still looking for a 6 speed Vette. Not sports car season up here -30C for the past few weeks. Search will start in earnest again in spring.