Depends what gearbox you are fitting up to what engine. I have a 3.8 and 3.4 ‘S’ types that were DG boxes and when I changed the DG out for an all synchro S1/11 box all I had to do was move the starter motor mount out slightly to accommodate the flywheel all the other bolts lined up ok.
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I just changed my automatic to a T5, look a few threads down on the saloon forums for a full write up with pictures.
Hi Owen,
I may be misunderstanding your question, but with the manual conversion, you have to remove all the fittings off the back of the engine associated with the auto gear box.
Fit a spigot bearing in the end of the crank, fit the flywheel, clutch and associated parts and then the gearbox and bell housing bolts straight on; there is no adaptor.
You will also probably need an inertia starter motor instead of the auto pre-engaged.
Paul
Does anyone know if an XKE bell housing will fit an MK2 3.8 manual transmission?
Yes as long as you either——
Fit a 4.2 flywheel and starter. or,
if using a MK2 flywheel,
modify the bellhousing starter holes
to accept the MK2 manual gearbox
(inertia) starter.
PeterB.
Edit The above applies to a 4,2 E Type bellhousing and fitting a ALL SYNCRO gearbox,
If the bellhousing is 3,8 E Type ( same as MK2) and the gearbox is a Moss box, no problem.
A 4,2 bell on a Moss box requires a reducing ring machined to fit the smaller front roller bearing fitted to the Moss.
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Thank you all. Very helpful.
One more thing to note - when you get around to putting your interior together, you will need to still order an automatic carpet set, due to the shape of the tunnel.
in the archives, by Paul Saltwick, (and others) there is good info on how to choose the right combo
I hope I have not got this ars# about, please correct me if I am wrong, but think it could be
select bellhousing, fit matching starter, fit matching flywheel, in that order
some flywheels have different tooth counts
I fitted a Toyota Supra 5 speed to a V12 XJ, using a custom Dellows bellhousing
believe I saw poster Peter Crespin had gear for sale for a manual conversion,
could be worth a PM
Indeed. And I would ‘almost’ give two of the overdrive boxes away (the Mk1/Mk2 Moss ones) just to make room for other stuff. The 4-synchro boxes, 6 or 12 cylinder, can’t be given away, but are cheap for the same reason. All messages welcome.
Hi,
Can anyone help me. My 1962 3.8 mk2 has been converted from auto to 4 synchro manual with overdrive.
I have just replaced the gearbox mount bushes and found the spring was too short (or so I thought). I fitted the correct 90mm long spring and found there was no adjustment on the rear engine stabiliser. So I have replaced the shorter spring. I still need to check the stabiliser adjustment ( It was late yesterday evening), but I am still concerned the gearbox is a little too high. I am also concerned that there is too little clearance between the speedo drive and the transmission tunnel.
I will try to upload some photos.
Thanks for you help
Dave
I have used the shortest spring, which is 80mm long and this crossmember which is about 55mm deep.
Do you have the long tail or short tail gearbox? Suspect a long tail with the mounting you have? My '63 Mk2 has the short tail from a '66 420 fitted with the “shovel” gearbox mounting. I could take some pictures for you - let me know. Paul
I don’t know what gearbox I have but it doesn’t have the shovel gearbox mount bracket. It has the one that goes across the underneath of the transmission tunnel.
It is a later 4 synchro with overdrive.
How do I find out what gearbox it is? I assume the long tail one has a tail that is longer, but how long?
Thanks
Dave
I guess this is the one that you have.
and this is the one that I have.
Your overdrive is the correct one for earlier Mk2s like ours that would have come with a Moss box had they been manual cars. I have the spring set up on my shovel mounting too. The mounting is fixed through spacers to drop everything down a little. Perhaps you might have to do similarly. Paul.
The locating pin at the rear of the box protrudes through the rubber cotton reel more than it should, the hole drilled in the pin should protrude approx1/8. /. 1/4”… The strip washers you have placed with the alu spacers fit the external side of the mount. A bit of hammer work, to gain clearance perhaps required. !! I take it that you are fitting one (correct) rubber channel ring to the bottom of the spring . With the locating pin in the position as stated, what is the position of the stabilizer?
Please.
Percussive adjustment.
But there is no space to swing a hammer. I need to at least remove the speedo drive and then all the oil will escape (faster than it is already escaping). Not such a simple job.
I think I have the first one. I will have a look in the morning.
I have the long tail gearbox.
But my saga continues…
My rod is protruding an inch through the cross member, which according to Peter Balls is too much. That is with the 80mm spring, which was the softest of them all. So I think I need to try the longer stiffer one!
With this spring refitted (which is how it was when I bought the car), I cannot get the engine steady lower threaded plate to screw up centrally with the bush. The rod does not appear to be central with the hole. The plate/disk moves freely up and down the rod and the rod is free to move horizontally.
Any advice would be very welcome. Is it the spring causing the issue? Am I doing the right thing? Am I being too pedantic?
Thanks for your help
Dave