Hi,
Im trying to remove the brake booster from my grandfathers v12 1974 e type LHD.
Cant find it in the manual. Someone got a YouTube video or something? Can i take it out from above? Under?
All information is welcome!
Thanks in advance.
I did it from the bottom… The service manual fails to mention how to “Draw servo from the bulkhead and manoeuvre clear” and how complicated that process is without further disassembly.
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Followed by the infamous, “installation is the reverse of removal”.
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First step is to remove the carpeting behind the pedals to access the bolts holding it in place. Pretty intuitive after that, but I don’t know if the V12 requires removing other parts to get it out / back in.
I don’t know the differences either but on my 6 cyl I found it worth while to remove the splash shields to have easy access to everything to be undone:
Thanks for the answers!
@Michael_Frank this is what I found in the manual, but its not the brake booster if im correct?
That’s the procedure for removing the servo/booster.
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Hi, I’m in the process of removing and refurbishing the servo and slave with a kit as I’m losing brake fluid. I’ve got a new rebuilt master and have removed the servo assembly (and emptied a few pints of brake fluid from the servo). Taking the servo apart wasn’t too hard but now I’m stuck as I don’t know how to remove the bearing and seal on the slave, parts 18 and 19. Any advice? It’s a 1970 2+2
Thanks
I’m just there today. What you need is a wood-jawed vice. If you only have a steel vise, you can make wooden facings from 1x3. Grip the actuating rod in the vice, about 2/3 of the way up. Then slide the body back and forth like a slide hammer. The entire assembly will pop right out.
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Thanks, I’ll have to try it this weekend. I’ll let you know how it goes.
I would suggest to grab the stainless rod in a vice at its end. ie on its last inch
The reason for this is that the rest of the stainless rod is a piston that slides into the rear seal into the servo cylinder. If you damage the rod in the area that is wiped by the seal, the seal may(will) leak when the servo is actuated. Stainless rods are no longer sold separately (that I know of) so if the rod is damaged one has to buy a new servo or find a Forum member willing to part with a valuable stainless rod!!!
Dennis 69 OTS
Thanks. I see your reasoning.
It is leaking into the servo vacuum section because of a deteriorated rear seal or a scored stainless rod or both. It is an idea to closely inspect the stainless rod with a magnifying glass when it is all apart to see if it is scored or pitted and if it can be cleaned up. The other route for the fluid leak is the rear seal leaking via its outer diameter qhere it seats on the cylinder bore. Perhaps there is corrosion where the outer seal lip seats. Such corrosion can usually be easily cleaned up
Dennis 69 OTS
I’m a day or two ahead of you, so take a tip or two. Before you go any further take a good long look at the rebuilding kit. I discovered after I was well into it that there were two flaws with the kit. First is minor: three’s a spring in the main piston stack, between 22 and 20 on your diagram. The one that came with my kit was too short, and it made it difficult to fit. But it’s not a wear part, so no harm to use the old one. The other is serious: The piston (22) is supposed to come with the seal installed. Mine did not have a seal, installed or loose in the kit. In my case, the servo is fairly new, so I reused the cup seal from the old one, but I’m really not happy with it, and the vendor will be getting a call on monday.
A few more pointers: the FSM describes the retainer (26) as being difficult to remove, but that a replacement would come with the kit. No retainer came with the kit, but my secondary piston was all one piece anyway. So no retainer needed.The only way to install the seals is to stretch them over the spindle, which didn’t seem right, but there was nothing for it. I did seem to go together fine. When pressing the secondary piston home, the FSM suggests a brass drift, something nobody ever seems to have. But you’ll need something that won’t scratch the bore. I used a nylon rod that happened to by lying around the shop.
The copper gaskets 2 and 31 don’t seem to be available at the moment. I dressed them down with abrasive on a steel plate.
Take special care cleaning the trap valve. This was my main objective, since my problem is locking brakes. The trap valve is made up of three pieces: a plastic valve, a spring and a copper spacer. There’s a tiny hole in the plastic valve. You want to get this stuff very clean, and don’t lose any pieces because they’re not replaceable.
All done, I don’t have high confidence. I didn’t like stretching the seals, and I really didn’t like reusing the main seal. But it is what it is.
Thanks for the slave disassembly advice everyone. It went very smoothly. I’m just waiting for the kit to arrive and then we’ll see about cleanup and reassembly. Stay tuned…
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Well, the kit arrived from Terry’s Jaguar in Michigan which is actually from Liberty Vehicle Technologies in England. Had a few spare parts left over which was concerning but after rechecking everything it appears that the kit is for servo type 6 and type 7 so I can only hope the parts are for the other type. Servo installation as well as brake master installation is scheduled for next week and then the dreaded brake bleeding.
Liberty is the current successor company to Lockheed/AP Braking.
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