Broken head stud mk 2

All electric welding is arc welding. There are various methods of doing that.

GMAW - Gas Metal Arc Welding. Also known colloquially as MIG: Metal Inert Gas - Wire feed welders. The wire is both the electrode and the filler. The wire is consumed in the process. The arc site is shielded from oxygen contamination by an inert gas, generally some combination of helium, argon and carbon dioxide

FCAW - Flux Core Arc Welding Same as above, but with a flux core wire intead of a shielding gas. A limitation of gas shielding is that it is not effective outdoors in windy conditions. A breezy environment does not affect flux core welding.

TIG: Tungsten Inert Gas. A non-consumable tungsten electrode delivers the current to the work site and the filler is dabbed in by hand. Most commonly used when welding stainless, aluminum and titanium, where very localized, very high heat is required This used to be refered to as Heliarc, because in the early days helium was used as the inert gas. These days, it is almost always argon or a combination of argon and carbon dioxide.

SMAW Shielded Metal Arc Welding - stick welding. The consumable electrode is covered with flux, making it impervious to weather conditions. You can deliver high heat and lots of filler with Submerged Arc Welding. It is typically use for heavy steel plate and structural shapes, things that are thick enough to absorb huge amounts of heat without warping or distorting.

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One thing to note: if you are going to be welding things, never weld anything steel that is zinc plated or galvanized. If you breathe enough of it, zinc oxide is very hazardous. ā€œMetal Fume Feverā€

Thank you Mike , I think you covered everything . Now I will be able to understand what I should be doing . No , I donā€™t plan to do a lot of welding , just to become an expert at sticking nuts to studs . :grin: If I get that bugger out , I will let you know . Thanks again .

Apparently , David , itā€™s a penetrating spray which when left to soak in, releases rusted in studs and bolts etc .

Aha. Never heard of it, looks and sounds good, I thought of petrol and was confused, good luck!

If you go ahead with Arc welding donā€™t forget to disconnect or remove the Battery, Regulator, Dynamo and /or Alternator, together with any other major electronic unit.

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Thanks for that mate !

Well , after a bit of practice , I managed to weld a nut to the stud , and it came out easily . I soaked it in plus gas for several days first . The stud itself was like new no corrosion , canā€™t understand why the top bit was so bad . Iā€™m not posting a picture of my weld , itā€™s not a pretty sight :grimacing:

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Well done Kenny , you know what and how to fix the next one , itā€™s a old jag , there will be another :rofl:

As long as the next one doesnā€™t break below the deck ,

I think that was just unlucky , maybe some one used it to lift the engine out , I meant another place on the car .

Have you got snow Ian ?

No just a hard frost , thank god , not that I have to go out !
I am in Maidstone

I drove a tower crane , building the stone borough centre . Seems like a bloody long time ago !!!

Cool , it was , I worked close by , in Rootā€™s , paint spraying

Need a spare windscreen Ian ? One on eBay in Maidstone Ā£80

Thereā€™s only one kind of ugly weld: one that breaksā€¦:grimacing:

No I am ok thank you Kenny , the only job I did not do
Had a new one fitted and he replaced the back one , all for Ā£240 !

Mine leaks , if only I could find someone reliable , and whoā€™s done one of these before :thinking:

I watched him , not a easy job , he said the biggest problem is the rubber , most are too hard !
He said mine was good , I got them about 25 years back , and they was kept in a bag indoors .
He used string to centralise the glass in the rubber , used as a packer , once glass was in sealed it up , then added the chrome trim , not a easy job in itā€™s self , for the price it was not worth me doing the job !!