Good morning forum. Looking for your thoughts on this clutch slave. Just removed yesterday - the car has been sitting for 25 yrs with all lines (clutch and brake) disconnected. Certainly plenty of rust and pitting in the cylinder. My thoughts are to send it to White Post for a re-sleve and then install a new piston. I just doused the ID with PB blaster and will use low-pressure to push out the old piston. What’s your thoughts on this plan?
Now my next question… 25 years ago the clutch and master were rebuilt (I think since they look in good shape externally). But as I said, line disconnected for 25 yrs… How can I determine if the ID bores are OK? Thanks in advance… Nick
Definitely send the slave to be re-sleeved along with the master. Do both at the same time.
The last photo is the brake booster. Are you tackling the brakes as well ? If so send both brake master and booster for a complete rebuild as well.
If its been 25 years I would consider rebuilding the calipers and replacing all brake and clutch hoses too.
Nick, I was recently in the same situation with the clutch slave. Mine was in bad shape inside and out. Taking price into consideration, I elected to buy a new Hye-dra-cyl stainless unit from Moss, rather than rebuild the old unit.
As for the the clutch and brake masters, and brake booster - there was no doubt mine needed rebuilding so I shipped them to White Post for sleeving and rebuilding. Not cheap, but worth it to me!
I would agree with @Michael_Frank. If you also decide to replace the lines, do not discard your old ones as you’ll need them for patterns. Save everything, clips and clamps, etc. holding the lines. Save especially the unions.
A light external spring pulls the release bearing away from the clutch when not engaged. That prolongs the life of the bearing. The only downside is that the rod will need adjustment from time to time. I would use one, whether the parts book calls it out or not.
If your ‘66 doesn’t have the external spring you may have what’s referred to as a “hydrostatic” clutch slave. I believe it was OEM for engine numbers 7E.4607 - 7E18355. They were known for causing premature wear of the throw out bearing and Jaguar swapped back to the “non-hydrostatic” version. So, as @Michael_Frank said above - it would be beneficial to have an external spring even if your car didn’t originally come with one. There’s more detailed discussion in the thread I linked above, and a lot more in the archives too.
IIRC you can skip disconnecting the fork and rod from the peddle. They will stay connected and slip out of the boot as you pull the MC out. Reinstalling is just the reverse…
You’ll find that while it’s not hard to undo the mounting nuts for the servo, it’s a job and a half to work it out of the car. At the very least, you’ll have to remove the battery, tray, and aluminum belly pan. I found it much easier to remove the splash guard as well.
Thanks Michael, I guess I’m fortunate since none of those items are installed at the time. I just scoped the peddle arms and access looks fairly easy from the footwell, So I’ll plan on disconnecting both before removal just to make it a cleaner operation. Thanks
