Interesting. For most of us, those were choke coils to filter out high frequencies so you only get bass notes from the rear.
I believe you.
I donāt spend a lot of time worrying about radio or music in cars, so not clued up on the advantage of bass weighted response for rear speakers. The āfusesā actually looked as if they were made with sintered metal. 3 ohms is quite high and would certainly cut down on volume across the spectrum.
Do all cars have these āfusesā in line with rear speakers ?
This chain regarding the rear 1/4 window motors has been MOST helpful. My thanks the Richard for the pictures and to Kirbert (the Book is my bible) for the āold tireā suggestion and others that contributed to the chain.
Question: did any one happen to make a template of the rubber āspiderā? I am going to have to replace mine.
Not sure if those motors have spare parts available.
I suspect not, they are probably a throw away item.
You might get away with cutting pieces of rubber to fit in there.
It looks like the rubber just compresses enough to apply some reverse torque.
I covered my āspidersā in rubber grease, think that is a good way to keep them working.
My ā88 coupe has the same resistors in line with the rear speakers. My assumption is that they are to impedance match to the radio output. Incorrect matching (especially lower) is hard on the radio, causing output transistors to fail. 8 ohm speakers typically measure about 6 ohms DC resistance; 4 ohm speakers typically measure about3- putting a 3 ohm resistor in series with a 4 ohm speaker would put the correct load on the radio, and as a side effect, cut the volume (intended or not). Shouldnāt effect frequency response.
True enough, but I thought nearly all automotive speakers are close enough to 4 ohm for govāt work, and automotive radios are designed to work with 4 ohm speakers.
Most aftermarket automotive radios and speakers are 8 ohm, at least the ones I have worked on. Chrysler stuff is all 8 ohm, which is my background.
I never liked the fact that my windows worked with the top. I clipped the power wires going to the quarter windows and just put in two switches on the back of the console and hooked them to a big wire in the console. I used a snap in from a junk jag and ran the power wires under the carpet. I never put in relays and just use the switches to raise and lower the windows. I can ride with the top (Hood) up and windows down. With the top down and cold breeze, I can run the windows up. No problem with the switches in 10 years. Per Kirby, there is a dead spot on one motor. I just drive the car for a block or so and the road bounce unfreezes the motor and all is well. I routed the top switch to the back of the console between the other 2 switches.
Best, Harry
Hello. I have a 1995 XJS Convertible. Few weeks ago I noticed fluid on top of the convertible Hydrailic Ram Ccylinder. Today i found a small puddle of red fluid inder the car in that area (Right side by Ram cylinder. How do you access this cylinder to replace it? Does seat and side panel have to come out?
Thank you!