Craig Restores a Series III OTS - Part IV

SUMMARY OF PREVIOUS THREADS I thru III
Part I - Introduction of Hobby Shop and removal of engine/transmission
Part II - Removal of all wiring harnesses, dropping fuel tank, stripping the car of all ancillaries and cleaning asphalt coating from under-body/bonnet
Part III - Engine Tear Down, Removal of Heads, Chrome to Chrome shop, Prep for and actual Painting of the Jaguar

Thanks to everyone who has contributed, recommended, commiserated, and provide sage advice and “keep your chin up” counsel. Now comes the hard part:

1. Tear Down/Disassembly - getting a naked chassis COMPLETE
2. Paint/Body Work - making it pretty COMPLETE
3. Rebuild/Restoration of Engine and Major/Minor Components – getting it ready to put together
4. Reassembly - getting it ready to (test) drive

So – to begin Part IV, let me open with a Series III Trivia Test (specific to the Series III; you series I and II guys/gals will never get this one).
I thought I knew just about every part of the Series III (less the innards of IRS, Trans, items buried deep behind the dash, and such) but I was stumped when I unpacked these two “things” from the box I got from my painter.

Anybody guess what these are? They are 4-5 inches long and just less than an inch square. They are made of aluminum. The two holes in each go straight through the piece. Only the flat face on one side is painted. I had to call the painter to learn where they came from :flushed: .

Hi Craig,
No guess required. They assemble into the ends (one each end) of the top, removable cross member of the Picture Frame to prevent crushing of the cross member when securing the Picture Frame to the front of the Engine Frames. .

Brent

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Bingo!
WOW Brent – that didn’t take long.

I think Brent has seen one or two of these before, Craig :wink:

I spent a few hours on the phone today trying to figure out where to send my stuff for plating (nickel plating for a-arms and such; cadmium for bits, parts, brackets, and such) . My hope was I could find one-stop-shopping. No Joy.

So, I am going to drop off the nickel plating parts at Quality Plating in Yuma, Co - they are only 3 hrs away. It’ll make a nice day trip. But they don’t do cadmium plating.

So I am going to use Van Nuys Plating in California for the cad plating parts.

For future Jag-Lovers looking for places to plate their bits and parts, here is an eXcel spreadsheet of the places I contacted or tried to contact. A fair number of places only do commercial business and some will only tumble small parts or want nothing to do with tubing used in the fueling system. See notes

Company Location Web Site Phone Nickel Cad Zinc NOTES
D&R Chrome Huntington Park, CA http://www.dandrchrome.com/ YES NO
Electro-Plating El Paso El Paso, TX http://www.electroplatingelpaso.com/ 915-779-3796 YES NO NICKLE ANDCHROME ONLY
Van Nuys Plating Van Nuys, CA https://vannuysplating.com 818-785-5885 YES Clear/Yellow will estimate with emailed photos // must note Aluminum pcs // 2-3weeks lead time
New Method Plating Worcester, MA https://www.newmethodplating.com 508.754.2671 YES YES YES COMMERCIAL ONLY BUT WILL DO CAD ONLY NO FUEL
Lake City Plating Ashtagula, OH https://lakecityplating.com/ (440) 964-3555 YES Clear/Yellow YES COMMERCIAL ONLY
Incertec Fridley MN Spec Metal Plating Company | INCERTEC (763) 717-7016 YES YES YES CONVOLUTED VOICE MAIL SYSTEM - NEVER TALKED TO A HUMAN
Burbank Plating Service Pacoima, CA http://www.burbankplating.com (818) 899-1157 NO YES YES TUMBLING $200 LOAD EXTRA FOR RACKING – 3-4 WEEK LEAD TIME LUPE
Sun-Glo Plating Co Clearwater, FL https://www.sun-glo.com/ 800-741-1456 YES YES CONVOLUTED VOICE MAIL SYSTEM - NEVER TALKED TO A HUMAN
M&M Plating Scarborough, ON http://www.mmplating.com/ 1 416 267-5811 YES YES CONVOLUTED VOICE MAIL SYSTEM - NEVER TALKED TO A HUMAN
Quality Plating Yuma, CO no web site (970) 848-2065 YES NO NO 15DEC21 (970) 848-2065 12 WEEKS COPPER then nickel LOWELL ~$500
Mara Plating Newark NJ Metal Polishing | Newark, NJ | Mara Polishing and Plating 973-242-0800 YES NO NO NO BUT SEE Manco Plating
Quality Plating Salt Lake City, Utah http://www.qualityplating.com/ 801-355-7424 YES Clear/Yellow YES COMMERCIAL ONLY but see refereal for Ogden
Manco Plating Newark, NJ no web site (973) 485-6800 REFERAL FROM MARA PLATING - never got thru
Ogden Chrome/Bumper Ogden Utah https://www.ogdenchrome.com/services 801-394-9449 YES NO NO REFERAL FROM QUALITY PLATING
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Uhhmmm - why is that? Is Brent a restorer?
Craig

Shade tree mechanic me thinks :wink:

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Craig,

Brent is 50% correct. There are four (4) of these used in the Front Frame assembly. Two (2) (C32926) are installed inside the lower frame(s) where the frame slides into the body. The second two (2) (C32927) Brent already identified as part of the Frame removable Cross member support. Since the painter installed the frames were the two (C32926) inserts installed? Which are the two inserts pictured? They’re kinda important so I’d ask the painter. Worst case, you’ll have to remove the frames to reveal if the rear ones are, indeed, installed! Also did the painter apply any sealant (RTV, etc.) to the frame mount surfaces protecting moisture from getting behind the mounts? Sorry to throw a wrench into your progress but I’d clarify this before further assembly.

Merry Christmas,

Dick

– I don’t know but suspect these two were left inside the frame channel when the painter removed the frame system for painting – I’ll check with my painter to be sure.

The cross bar was painted but it was not installed into the frame system – hence the photo of the interior braces on the staircase above. Since I would need to remove the cross bar to install the rebuilt engine, it didn’t make sense to install it now. But now I know where the braces go.

I didn’t think to mention (didn’t know to mention it) applying sealant to the mounting surfaces. Damn.

Craig,
You should be able to verify the inserts are installed in the lower frames by removing the cross bolt and looking into the hole. If you see metal thru to the other side then the insert is there. Much easier than removing the whole frame(s).
At some point in time Jaguar determined there was water infiltration under some under bonnet components. The factory solution was to add a bead of sealing material (black stuff) to the outside mount edge after the car was painted.


Here you can see the black sealant applied to the RH upper frame mount and the top of the harness grommet. This picture is of an original, unrestored body. A more unusual finding is Jaguar only applied sealant to the RH mount, not the left.

Sealant was also applied to the six (6) center firewall holes.
Hope this helps,
The paint look great. Appears the painter did a good job now don’t nick it as you reinstall everything… Ha Ha
Did you ask the painter for a pint can of paint from the batch the car was sprayed with? Good to have for those little 'touch ups".
Have a Merry Christmas,

Dick

Excellent! You can stop by mi casa on your way back for lunch!

No Dick, I’m 100% correct with regards to the parts Craig Posted a picture of. The similar parts that assemble into the ends of the lower members of the engine frames are similar only in that they serve the same purpose of supporting the area of the tube where bolts pass through.

The following picture is of an original insert for the end of the Engine Frame lower tubes.

As, you can see, its quite different to the unit in Craig’s picture and quite hard to mistake it for the device that assembles with the removable cross member of the Picture Frame.

When this part is damaged, or missing, we make our own, shown the following pictures:

The pity is, that they will probably never be seen again after fitting the frames. The two holes could provide a good method of attachment as a bonnet emblem. :grinning:

Brent

Hi Craig,
Well, you dodged a bullet then. It’s not a good idea to have much of any coating on those surfaces. Multiple layers of paint simply provide a paint gasket that will compress over time (short time) and the bolts loosen to some extent.

We put one light coat of epoxy primer (just to stop the area from rusting, and when assembling the frames, apply a thin bead of sealer just inboard of the periphery of the engine frame mounting flanges; the rest of the surface is left dry.

There is clear evidence that the bulk head and engine frames of S3 cars were painted with the engine frames assembled with the tub. Any truly original cars that we’ve stripped show bare metal surfaces on both the engine frame mounting flange and where they attach to the bulk head.

Brent

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Hi Craig,
You will be dead unlucky if the inserts have been left out of the engine frames, as they are not that easy to remove when there is intent to do so. I’ve handled literally hundreds of S3 engine frames and never have I seen one insert fall out.

It’s worthwhile to check and not hard to do, but I would be very surprised if either one were left out.

Brent

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You mean, you’ve encountered frames where some “expert” left them out??

:persevere:

Yes, with our profound lack of equipment, we just use a trained beaver to gnaw these parts out of billet.

Brent

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Hi Paul,
Yep, by one of those spurts; a drip under pressure. :grin:

Brent

Geez… Murkin beavers just gnaw down trees, and make dams!

🦫

The few frames I ever did, Dad and I surmised that would be a good thing to do, also.

That’s how I felt, when installing Carillo rods and beautiful forged pistons…:persevere:

That is, until spit out the side of the block…