Craig Restores a Series III - Part XV


Part I - Introduction of Hobby Shop and removal of engine/transmission

Part II - Removal of all wiring harnesses, dropping fuel tank, stripping the car of all ancillaries and cleaning asphalt coating from under-body/bonnet

Part III - Engine Tear Down, Removal of Heads, Chrome to Chrome shop, Prep for and actual Painting of the Jaguar

Part IV - A comprehensive matrix of nickel and cadmium platers // Procedure for removing crankshaft // Removing timing chain, guides and tensioner // Repair Timing Chain Cover (aluminum welding) // V12 Exhaust system options // Removal and ultimately Replacing Oil Pump ($$) // Checking Cam Sprockets for reuse // Challenges of removing 6 stuck pistons/sleeves (significant portion of this thread) – including a trip to a machinist; spread over a wide range of posts // Discussion of glass beading and/vs vapor blasting // Return of Chrome

Part V - carbs and dizzy return from rebuild (with contact data) // options for A/C compressor // installed left and right side wiring harnesses and Bulkhead Harness // challenges attaching Bulkhead Harness Grommet (C30670) // Elastrator as a possible tool to solve issue // more on vapor blasting – a definitive discussion // purchased a non-Series III boot lid seal during a group buy to use as a boot lid seal // started install of distributed compressed air from the compressor.

Part VI - processes of wiring new bulkhead harness to the 4x new fuse boxes // variations of Series III Wiring Diagrams // MarekH: Jaguar Wiring 101 // how-to regarding Home Made Circuit Tester for less than $10 // Comparo of newly cadmium bits and tubes to old // rebuilding wiper motor // new Exhaust System // comparo of incandescent bulbs to LED equivalent // camparo of mechanical brake light switch vs hydraulic // tricks to re-installing pick-up/return lines and the ins and outs of the in-tank fuel filter // receipt of all bits to rebuild heads and choosing a machine shop // YouTube videos covering the wiring of the 10x switches on the gauge panel // a source for better than new Front Upper A-Arms (AKA wishbones)

Part VII - the Terminal Post on a Series III is Whitworth (a 1/4 Whitworth Spanner will be correct) and the proper sequencing of the cables // the utility of grounding straps including photos of OEM grounding straps locations // do’s and don’ts’s of applying Dielectric Grease // heads are refurbished – machining done // a schedule of lead times for out-sourced procedures // application of ceramic coating on my fresh paint // definitive identification of Horn Relay Bracket // installing LED panels in brake/tail lamps and front turn signals // a pair of restored Upper Wishbones arrive from Australia // THE definitive discussion of dealing with hydrogen embrittlement on cadmium plated parts //

Part VIII - the need for special washers or rivets to attach side chrome on door // testing fuel sender // installing X-Mat sound-heat barrier on floor pan // receive crankshaft and ConRods back from balancing / polishing // the utility of DEI heat shields // return of ½ the front suspension pieces from cad Plater // Interior Kit receives // the complete solution of the placement of unmarked underfelt pieces

Part IX - applying ACF-50 on aluminum pieces, pressing in Front Suspension Bushings, installation technique for C30670 firewall grommet, stripping radiator cowl. dealing with inner and outer seals on window crank handle.

Part X - assembly of Pistons onto Rods, deciphering A and B pistons vs A and B Head on V12, beginning to reattach front suspension, front horseshoe frame can go on two ways but only one is correct, techniques to plug the air Injection Ports on exhaust side of V12 heads, powder coated cam covers, locknuts vs lock washers, repair options for A/C evaporator and condenser, repair options to rebuild PS rack, A/C compressor replacement options, relay on switches of A/C evaporator, window regulator and various door seals, installing pistons on crankshaft, no need to clock gaps in piston rings, correct version of timing chain tensioner, PDWA install, renewing Radiator Fan Motors, and Bulkhead Layout diagram.

Part XI - how to re-attached hard lines, sources for Belleville Washers, correct assembly order for washers/spacers/etc on upper/lower front suspension, THE definitive discussion about window regulator - where seals go (and where they don’t) - lube points - winder spring - how to insert the regulator - sequence of insertion, Lesson Learned about trusting vs verifying (ref machine shop setting valve lash), dimensions and obstructions for hard wood spacer insert in the bottom of the picture frame, adding a duct fan to fresh air hoses, grounding strap(s), and it’s a tie down point used during shipping not a towing eye.

Part XII - upper and lower door glass stops, applying DEI Heat Shields to Trans Tunnel, importance of cleanliness of regulator spring, Terry’s for long and short PS Rack lines (plan on 3-5 weeks for delivery), orientation of motor mounts (and the challenges of mounting them), installing boot matting and the mat that doesn’t belong on an OTS (lots of photos of original matting), conducting a gas leak test of valves sets, short block → long block, powder coating results.

Part XIII - Sources for Brake Line Kit, trials of 2x small head studs that stripped during head torqueing procedure (biggest coverage), dimension of lower window stop, 1986-92 dead Pedal from RX7 works/fits in Series III XKE, install of duct fans, install of fresh air vents in cabin, items to check on steering column before reinstalling it, reassembly of heater matrix with new matrix, new valve and sealing kit.

Part XIV - restoring/rebuilding the Gauge Panel, differences between original harness an British Wire harness, option for boot-mounted seat belt system, digital IVR, mechanical oil pressure gauge, restoring and ball bearing size for choke mechanism, leather cover for center console, cleaning upper half of steering column, ED bulbs for instrument panel, the trick to removing the Brake Light Switch, removing torsion bar brackets and sound deadening pad, dropping the IRS (do’s and don’t’s), sources for Series III Brake Line Kit, attaching points for brake and fuel lines,

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This weekend marked the one-week point from when @Wiggles tried the chemical approach to repairing the threads on one of the two head studs on my blocks. I had some commitments that interfered.

In addition, the weather was particularly nice so I cleaned up my recently-dropped IRS.

It was pretty filthy


So I tested my foam cannon on my pressure washer. I wasn’t expecting much - years and miles of crud build-up is not a good target for it.

Paul - you can see how I threaded the axle straps to attach the cherry picker: one each on the ends of the axles and a third around the pinion protrusion to prevent it from rotating during the lift.

Add in some elbow grease, wire brush, gasket scraper, and 3 applications of foam, and . . .


I even found the inspectors paint dab

I’ll still get pretty dirty tearing it apart but it is a better starting point.

So – – now to test torque the repaired stud.
Stand by . . .


Impressive! I also have those right angle brackets bolted to the real shock lower mounts on each side. I was told along time ago that they were for tie-downs during shipping. The mechanic (formerly at Overseas Motors - Dallas). said it was the first ones he’d seen that had not been previously removed.

Waiting with bated breath!

I assumed they were for towing/pulling the car out of a bad place (for a short distance) – but shipping tie-downs makes sense too.

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The stud took 20 lb/ft and I shoulda left well enough alone. It failed at 22 lb/ft.
Just as well cuz when I was checking how deep the second stud would go into the other stud hole, it didn’t seem to go in as deep as the first and it came up with 2.5-3 coils of aluminum wrapped around it. I’m guessing the second stud hole is the worse of the two.

Onto Nutserts.


I have been waiting to hear the outcome of that experiment, and am sorry it failed. But I hope you don’t procrastinate on the tough job (like I do) and start messing with the light bulbs again. :slightly_smiling_face:

I am almost done assembling my engine with ancillaries, and then will have no excuse left to not dive into bodywork, unless I decide to do the IRS first

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Decisions, decisions.

I don’t think it matters which path you take – you’ll end up at the same place.

The worst part of a bad job is usually the fear and anticipation - so if we get the worst jobs done first the rest will be more enjoyable. At least that is my current theory.


Just one of many parts that didn’t make it into the Series 3 E-type Parts Catalogues! It was detailed in the RTC9012 - XJ12 XJ12L Parts book, page 11.20 - Part number C38013. Yes, they were shipping tie-down brackets, not to be used for other purposes (i.e. towing). Still looking for the front tie-down bracket part number as it still remains a mystery!

Happy Trails,


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You need to document your build.

My engine is part 1971 - part 1974, and I have not been totally original in the finishing of components so I don’t want to confuse or draw fire from the purists. The plumbing on the top end and carbs is not done, but since you like to process things visually and asked :slightly_smiling_face::


Oooh - pretty. You have been busy. Both on your car and your shop

I don’t see a whole lot of deviations from stock colors

It took nigh on to 7 weeks but I finally retrieved my 9x Series III exhaust manifolds and 2x Y-pipes from the machine shop for magnafluxing.

Good News I - the total bill was $100
Good News II - both Y-pipes checked out as OK
Bad News - only three manifolds passed muster but two look iffy

There are several options before me

  • Moss Motors offers 4x new manifolds (and the kit includes the studs and bolts and gaskets) $1,800.
  • Moss Motors offers a new Stainless Steel header set (3 into 2 into 1) for $2,300 - eliminates the Y-Pipes (just sold out - on B/O)
  • There are sufficient eBay offerings such that I can cobble together a combination of “new” manifolds ($450) and used ($200-$350) but I’m not keen on buying someone’s problems/issues.
  • Team CJ doesn’t list any options on their web site
  • Nor does Terry’s Jag
  • I found Martin Robey carries them at £275 each plus shpg from UK

Any other options out there??

Classic Fabs makes headers and I recall the price is in the ball park of what you quote from Moss.

In this case, though, as you know, I am of the fairly well-supported opinion that headers on a stock engine don’t buy you anything on the street, however if they’re made properly, they’re probably less hassle than the cast-iron ones. They may be a little bit louder, but once installed, you’re done.

That is exactly my line of thought.

I believe their system is exhaust-port-to-tail-pipe. I already purchased a Bell exhaust system that goes from Y-pipe to tail pipe (purchased before I understood the scarcity of the exhaust manifolds). So Classic Fabs would come with a ma$$ive overlap.

I have 3 options working right that may get me 4x stock (albeit after market) exhaust manifolds.

Time will tell

You can buy headers separately from Classic Fabs. Might be worth an email to find out if it would be compatible with what you already have.

If by Y-Pipes you mean C33480 and C33481, I have a set new, still in the box that I had ordered years ago but never got around to installing. PM me if interested. After the giant restomod I did I no longer need them since I have the headers installed. One thing to note about the header installation that is different from stock is that if you want to drop the trannny for a clutch job or whatever, the back of the engine will not drop down as far as with the stock exhaust manifolds. It seems that the rearmost pipes come to rest on the heat insulation right at the beginning of the trans tunnel. This makes getting the trans back in a real bear. The voice of experience.