wont work on diff output shafts though, their diameter is too big
I do use my 3/4" drive sockets for many such things
Right Jim. Iāve a large array of sockets and I considered turning one down to fit, but Tonyās suggestion works so perfectly there was no need. The other thing I learned besides needing a press, was I need to get my lathe in service. It came to me as one damaged by water and Iāve restored it all except for the motor. So shame on me for letting it sit, because now I could use it.
As to the press, it works great and I am liking the air assist. It quickly moves the ram into place vs. the slow pumping of the manual handle. The air does seem to create quite a bit of forceā¦maybe 8 tons or so, but for precision work the pump handle will be best and certainly for inserting large bushings like those on the radius arms where the force required approaches 20 tons. Anyway, cool tool.
You keep the best bearing as a setup bearing, and can use the outer & inner off the other one as mandrels, honed either outside or inside
I had an experienced technician in our club turn his nose up at using an old bearing as a setup bearing, but I do compress & measure old vs new with a micrometer to check they are within .001"
If not, you have to buy an extra new bearing to sacrifice as a setup bearing, some guys do this anyway
I have a mate who has been a mechanic for 65 years, and this is how he does things
a specialist diff shop may have very expensive kits to do all this stuff
I fondly remember the 30 tonne mechanical press I had, made in 1908, it weighed ~1000lb. I would have loved to have kept it, but when I sold my commercial building, the purchaser was adamant it came with the sale, and as it had cost me about the same as a modern one, and I had nowhere big enough to keep it at the time, so had to say bye
I like my press itās home made table top, easier to move they use to be very expensive Iād just buy one now . Im No expert just the guy who does it but Iāve a box of crap for mandrels bits of muffler pipe ,old bearings ,bolts
etc. The press is good for finessing verses a hammer 
Even with a press things may not separate alum hub and rotor then add eastern road salt for extra corrosion
Guy at a machine shop said to cut the rotor in half then press save the expensive hub because the whole assembly is going to Get wrecked otherwise
That guy and I really hit it off , was like I was talking to my self
Heād owned a motorcycle shop and at 16 I worked as a mechanic at one thought of my own shop one day Told him this story
They wanted to send me to Yamaha school
The mechanic I worked with told me to get the hell out now kid
I asked him why he said because in 20 years youāll be doing the same thing you are today.
Sooo I asked him what he would tell the kid now with all his experience
ā Iād probably tell the kid to get lostā
We had a good laugh
I could have easily been him but I took a u turn
Thatās exactly what I did Tony, used a belt sander to reduce the outer diameter of the cup and a brake hone to enlarge the inner diameter of the inner race after removing the cage. Both worked perfectly; I did not see a need to be overly cautious on the material removed because this āmandrelā would only be used to seat the new bearings and not for the setup. I have 3 good, used bearing Iāll keep in the Jag bin. Iām not doing the bearing inside the differential as I like the pattern I see; I just need to do a proper shim adjustment on the output shafts and once done I can close up the differential. Iāll be very glad to do so as this diff has been open since January!
Whatās eastern salt Jimā¦just road salt? How does that aid in separating the hub and rotor?
I like your story on lifeās choices.
[quote=āScotThompson, post:45, topic:421679ā]
Whatās eastern salt Jimā¦just road salt?
[/quote
Wasnāt very clear was I
Out west on the coast we donāt generally get the road salt usage like down east so Cars generally wear out from mileage. Out east they generally rust out after 10 years , fenders,trunks,brake lines, doors, floors, seat mounts ,shock towers
Road Salt and water toxic mix for cars . It builds up on the plug wires and shorts them out ( miss fire)
Keep the top of your battery clean the salt and crap makes an electrical path between the posts ( parasitic draw)
Cheers
Yeahā¦well seeing as Iām from Sctsdl, AZ. Iāve had to learn to live with this scheiss. But my Jag is from Utah and AZ. Thereās never even been undercoating on its bottom!
I finally got all the parts together so yesterdayās progress was to fit the left side output shaft. New bearings and trial and error to get the end float and preload right. It is set at 0.000" end float and 15 lb-in of preload. Added the O-ring and a new seal for āfinalā assembly. The pattern on the crown wheel shouldnāt have changed but when I complete the right side output shaft Iāll check that again before closing up the differential.
Anyone notice something wrong with the pics?
You left the axle bolts off. Real PITA to put them in once assembled.
In one of Paul Cangialosiās videos on rebuilding a E Type diff I watched him heat the bearing up with a paint stripping gun (or equivalent) and then he just dropped it on - the pinion in this case. I tried it - it works. Takes only a few minutes.
You got the gold ring Dick! The bolts are sitting right at my feet too! How does one put the bolts in once assembled? I tried every way I could think of. But it isnāt difficult to take the flange nut off, replace the tab washer; thatās what I did.
Terry I have done the heat/freeze thing many times on different bearings but I worry about heating the bearings and what it may do to the rollers and/or cage. Still, Timken recommends heating and cooling bearings and hubs to ease installation. See video.
The new press is making short work of the right output shaft bearing replacement. It is time saver for sure!
Another interesting resource at Timken is their parts look up to find torque value. Go to:
You can actually find my 1963 XKE there with the correct bearing and seals front and rear. However, I did not find any torque specs. Still, this link will be useful for most cars you might be working on.
It is always interesting to note how long it takes to do the first of something - like the left side output shaft - and then the next one. The tools and spacers and techniques have been sorted and one has received lots of adviceā¦all of which takes time. I could not do this job without the use of a hydraulic press and that took a couple of weeks to sort out what I wanted and what I was willing to spend. $250 for a used air assist hydraulic 20 ton press. It is essential IMO.
The right side output shaft went much faster of course.
Part of the reason I make these threads, other than needing help and guidance from the J-L Community - is when I complete a thread, I copy the whole thing and turn it into a Word file and PDF file and save it for posterity and to send to others should I be asked for help in the future.
For instance, the setting up of the output shaftās shims that determine end-float and pre-torque.
It isnāt obvious to a novice like myself that the output shaft/bearing house should be set up in a vice; I was intending to place it back into the differential each time as the safest place to work on it and keep it from turning, etc. Not the way to do it. Theyāre setup in a vice, totally outside of the differential itself. Seems obvious now, but not when I started and I approached everything tentatively. How to hold that shaft from turning? Iāve copper sleeves for my vice; even so, I still tried to clamp the inside end of the output shaft with a rag wrapped around it and clamping fairly hard so as to keep it from turning. Not necessary. I hold it in the vice between the copper clad jaws on either the inside end of the output shaft or at the bearing housing depending on the whatās to be done. To keep it from turning, I donāt clamp it very tightly, I use a 3/8" ratchet extension, a long one, to secure the shaft while I tighten the large nut to 75 lb-ft. Iāve noted that if the big nut is tightened to, say, 25 lb-ft, the pre-load torque is much less than when tightened to 75 lb-ft. Not so with the end-float where pretty much the end-float is not effected once the bearing has been seated.
In the case of my right side output shaft, the end-float that existed before I pulled it from the differential was 0.009" vs. the spec. of 0.001"-0.003". The pre-load with the shaft and bearing housing assembly out of the differential with 0.009" end-float was zero. You could spin the shaft without any noticeable resistance. The spec. still calls for 0.001"-0.003" and no mention of pre-torque, but the actual setup these days is different. If the bearings are not being replaced, set the end-float to 0.000" and ignore the pre-load that will be pretty much zero. If the bearings are replaced, set the end-float to 0.000" and the preload to 12-25 lb-in.
I donāt know where these numbers are in writing, but they are what Iāve been advised to use. In the case of the right side output shaft, I set it at 0.000" end-float and and 20 lb-in with 75 lb-ft of torque on the big nut. (At 25 lb-ft torque on the big nut, the end-float was 0.000" but the pre-torque was about 8 lb-in. I chose 75 lb-ft as my setup torque as going to 90 lb-ft didnāt seem to make much difference. Once in the differential, the big nut is torqued down to 90 lb-ft and then tightened to align the tabs on the lock washer with some flats on the big nut. In my case that torque was 115 lb-ft. I understand the recommended torque for the big nut is 90-130 lb-ft, but I cannot find a spec that actually states that.
I recognize that the shims on the output shaft should set the output shaft end-float and the pre-torque, but such has not been my experience. The shims I have are used. Mainly the ones that were on the shaft when I removed it and they were not perfectly flat as new ones would be. They have some āwarpageā due to being previously tightened. I think perhaps that is what makes the tightness of the big nut relative to the pre-load? With this right side output shaft, it took me 5 iterations to adjust the shim stack so as to achieve 0.000" end-float and 20 lb-in of preload.
As a note, the shims between the bearing housing and the differential have not been changed. That is what sets the carrier position and the pre-load on the carrier bearings. As my pattern looked pretty good, I left these shims exactly as I found them.
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A milestone day yesterday: closed up the differential. Now to add the brake rotors and calipers, etc. and start re-assembling the IRS cage. No drama here, just need to touchup the paint.
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I think the diff should be red on a series 1 if you want it original at least thatās what Iāve been told
Similar memory I have, of a late 1890s-safe my parents had: at 9000 pounds, it had to stay when I sold their house.
Yesā¦but only perhaps. Mine is red inside and out and the outer was covered with black paint. I have read lots about the early differential being red, but below is a picture from an original 1962 (Haddock and Mueller) that shows no sign of red that I can discern. And their discussion of differential color is not definitive, IMO.
Nonetheless, this is not a show car, I am not painting the shocks grayish-blue, it has an alternator vs. generator, I deleted the original regulator. I donāt have the original head on the engine. Things that donāt really irreparably change the car I have avoided. But I am working hard to make it be true to what it was back in the day. In the case of the black paint on the differential, I just couldnāt convince myself it would add any value. Same thing with the lettering on the vacuum tank. And I had a '63 FHC back in 1985 or so and its differential was definitely black.
Anyway, thank you Jim for the input. I do indeed appreciate it.
It has been a longish road to get to this point. Tedious work is what comes to my mind in reflection. But I have arrived at the end of working on the differential and the ancillaries attached to itā¦almost. the differential is all together, the ring/pinion (okay crown) patterns were correct, I fixed a number of issues with the differential: bad bearing on the left outside of the output shaft, replaced the output shaft itself on the same left side, new inner and out output shaft bearings and quite an effort to achieve 0.000" end-float while also achieving 15-20 lb-in of pre-load. (Got to buy a new tool, so thatās always a plus!) And that pre-load crept up on me as I tightened things down at each step but it still seems reasonable to me. Hard to tell once the brake discs are in place, but Iād guess it to be perhaps 25 lb-in. New bearings recall so it should be higher that if the old bearings were used. I made new cross-over lines for the hydraulics, had the pistons/cylinder all reconditioned and re-sleeved. New brake disc on that side that had some weird access hole spacing in the disc (for the caliper bolts) that was incorrect for my car. Refurbished the handbrake calipers myself, inserted the new green (EBC) pads and before all that, I noted that the flange where the discs mount was heavily painted - previously and by me. That all had to come off as it is a machined mating surface that needs to run true. What a bother. See the dental tool in one of the pics below; mostly I used a razor blade and Dremel wire brushes.
I need to fit the handbrake bracket and fix those little captured nuts that no longer exist and put the little cotter pins in the handbrake adjusting screws. And with that I can move on to re-assembling the IRS cage and suspension, etc.
So looking forward to figuring out how to set the camber. Yes, indeed! Thanks for sharing the journey with me.
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Are you sure you do not want to replace the other disk? Not sure it would be an issue, but could the friction properties be different? It just seems now is the time to do it.
Tom
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Iām positively, absolutely certain I think. heh!
No really Tom, the other disc is also new or rather it certainly appears so and I conclude it was new back in 1995ish. There is not a mark on it and no signs of wear. I donāt believe it has ever been down the road and the thickness measures much like the new one and well above the spec. I didnāt see any reason to ābrightenā it up just so the two would have the same ācolorā. the other disc with the odd holes was in an equally pristine shape so Iāve convinced myself they both were replaced during the 1990s ārestorationā. Even the surface texture feels and looks like the new disc and when struck, they chime like each other (the new and old). So, Iām gonna use it. 
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