Dist drive installation

At least both pumps can be measured side by side to find the problem…

You sure it’s not hitting the thing the red arrow is pointing to.

The pan is rocking…I’d be curious about the total height of the pump…mounting surface to lowest portion. Then, I’d probably measure internal clearances, assuming the thing was built too large…what else might be suspect?

Was this on 3.8 only or also the 4.2?

All references I’ve seen state that any 3.4 that requires a NEW pump must use the 4.2 pump with modification…these sources don’t say " either 3.8 OR 4.2 pump"…don’t know if that means both the 3.4 AND 3.8 are different from the 4.2 or not. Could be that the 4.2 pump is the only one available for ANY of the XK engines.

Country 4.2 to AE 4.2

I thought it might be the bracket which is why I removed the baffle. Also the rocking is side to side in the front, not front to back. Has to be the pump or the pipes.

Correct, no supplier has a 3.8 pump. As I mentioned earlier the 4.2 uses a 7/8 pickup tube. The 3.8 uses a smaller one. That’s the main modification, a step down tube. Ever since mine came to me 20 years ago, it’s had the larger 4.2 tube, so it either originally had a 4.2 pump or a PO changed it. I’m most sure number-wise when the change to the larger pump happened.

This is the 3rd pump that has been in it since I’ve owned it. I ditched the old one the first time I rebuilt it and installed the country which has been in for 23k mikes. I’m going to try the clay as Paul suggested. If I don’t like what I see then the Country pump gets washed out and put back in. If that doesn’t fit then…something, something.

here are a couple photos of 3.4 liter getting a 4.2 oil pump. Is your pickup tube properly locating in the sump? That seemed like a pretty close fit.

That bracket on my 4.2 liter engine is mounted on the center bearing cap. Can’t tell in this photo whether it is mounted closer to the oil pump on this engine. Could it be too far forward?

Nope it’s the center. It’s where it has to be because that is where the right angle bend in the uptake pipe is.

Okay so there are two points of interference:

  • The top, rear oil pump cap bolt head. That corner of the bolt head can easily be filed down I think

  • Also the output pipe corner seems to be hitting. The pump output appears to be about 1/16" higher than on the old Country pump output.

Question, there is quite a bit of lash on the pump input shaft to the coupler, at least 1/8". The mounting surface for the pump is pretty small. I think I could relatively easily file that evenly to bring the pump slightly closer to the block. The pipes would still fit fine. The only thing that would change is that coupler lash would be reduced. Does this seem like a safe move assuming I keep the landing even?

I can also file the side of the riser that the baffle attaches to. It can only go down about 1/16 at most before the baffle contacts the ribs inside the pan and bottoms out Oil would still flow under the baffle because of the ribs.

Reasonable plan?

Sounds doable from my house!

If needs be the coupler could also be trimmed to retain the lash so that there is no binding.

True nuff! Does anyone think a full 1/8" lash is needed so long as it’s centralized and not binding?

No more than that is needed.

You can take the end float on the coupler down to 1/32" with no prob…should be relatively easy to sand/file down the alum. pump base. However, since the engine will be upside down, the dizzy shaft end float will be all “taken up” so keep that spec in mind when you do your measuring…ie, you need to add in the desired dizzy shaft end float to the total required float…your measured “at least 1/8” " probably does not include the dizzy shaft float.

Ah good call! I’ll make sure and push in on the dist shaft to make sure I measure it correctly.

Okay, several hours work spread over a couple days but the pan now sits squarely on the block without a gasket so with a gasket the pump and pipes will actually have a little clearance. Most of it was just filing this pier flat. Being sand cast it was quite rough and 1/16" came off before it was even level. The next 1/16" took a bit more work. Even more work, scrubbing the crap out of it until no more shiny bits were coming out. I also peened over the 1/4" of baffle that sits forward of this pier.

On to the timing chain chains…

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Excellent results…the earlier steel pans do not have that transfer hole…they hold more than a quart of non-circulating oil in that oil pump well. Jag musta rethought that situation for your pan.