Kirby’s book states that the U-joints in the driveshaft will take Spicer 5-153X.
I’d like to install a sealed unit without the grease nipple. Anybody know the equivalent Spicer U-Joint?
O’Reilly’s claims Spicer 5-153X (greasable) and Spicer 5-1310X (non greasable) will fit. Anyone confirm?
I’ve gone ahead and ordered 5-1310X
Greg,
Unless you’re young, perfectly healthy or doing pro drift racing with your British-sheet-metal-anvil install standard replacement… Otherwise, even the cheapo will outlast you. Install any unit without grease nipple, most of U-joints on the market are not even considering the need of re-greasing.
Excelent tutorial on U-joints:
I am going to take my driveshaft to a driveshaft specialist, and let them deal with the u-joints installation. I’m also going to have them check balance, and grease the slip joint. Anything else worth doing?
Why? That’s one of the easier jobs on this car. I replaced a U-joint in a bank parking lot one time, buying the tools needed from the parts store across the street as required.
And chances are fair they will screw up your drive shaft if they fiddle with that slip joint. I had no end of trouble trying to find a drive shaft specialist that had any idea how to balance one. Of course, that was in the 1980’s. Maybe they’re more competent today. Still, if I were you I’d mark the alignment of the two parts either side of the slip joint and take note of any balance weights on the drive shaft, so you can put it back the way it was after they screw it up.
Yeah, i know what you mean. Ive been finding places care less and less about getting things right, and when they hear its a Jaguar, usually dont want to touch it.
I know i can do ujoints, ive done them before, just lazy. I will rent press tool to make it easy.
So that i dont screw up slip joint, what do i do? Simply pull apart, clean and put ? grease, put back?
Also, i know its crucial to keep yokes aligned with driveshaft as-is when doing ujoints for balance. Is it crucial to keep aligned with flanges on trans and diff?
Rule #1. Always try to reassemble rotating parts in the same position they were before you got your hands on them.
Rule #2. If it vibrates after you worked on it, refer to rule #1.
Agree. Ujoint swaps are easy easy. Add a new toy. a small vice to press the yoke and even easier.
Either the one with a grease nipple or the one with life time lube is fine for normal street use.
Drag racers and off road folks like the latter. Stronger, solid yokes. they are swapped out regularly any way / maintwnance or busted…
Decades ago, I limped home with the front joint on my F150 on the verge of disintegration. Plan B was to remove the shaft and proceed in front wheel drive…
Hoping that not needed as I was in business attire!!!
Carl
You old guys give me the confidence, thanks! 
I would think after all your transmission woes
, U joints would be a walk in the park for a man of your skill set and fortitude.
Been many a U-joint pressed in and out with proper diameter socket and a vise mounted to a work bench
I dunno what you know. There’s no need to maintain any alignment at the U-joints. They’ll only go together one of two ways, and either one will work fine.
What you must keep aligned is the sections of driveshaft on either side of that slip joint. If you don’t disassemble the slip joint, you can take the driveshaft out and put it back in at will without marking anything. But if you take that slip joint apart, it must go back together exactly the same way or else.
Well, I marked everything, so its easy enough to put back exactly.
BUT…tell me more about this slip joint. I’ve never encountered one. What should i do?
If I were you, I’d hold the driveshaft in hand and pull it longer and shorter a couple of times. If it moves smoothly with no noticeable slop, I’d just bolt it back in without futzing with it. If it doesn’t move right, like it lacks lube, I’d mark it very carefully, take it apart, clean up the splines, lube it with moly EP grease, and reassemble. You might need a new gaitor for it; I have no idea where you’d get one, but if there’s no chance of finding OEM perhaps an aftermarket boot for a tie rod end would fit.
If it’s loose and rattly, I think it’s new driveshaft time.
Thanks Kirby. I can easily slide in/out by hand, no rattle.
The gator slides a bit roughly, looks old but not torn up. Bit of crud between it and shaft. Is there something i can do? Clean out crud around lip? Put a little lube on shaft where gator slides, and perhaps spray something to protect rubber from hardening?
I want to clean it, but not sure what to use. Dont want anything leaking down shaft and ruining lube. Is it like a cv boot with proper seal inside?
You could apply a bit of red grease, the stuff made for rubber parts.
Now i remember why i hate doing ujoints.
I screwed up. I was pushing through one side so i could get ahold of cap, and the other side popped through into the middle. There is no way to remove cap like this, so i thought could push it back in from inside.
Not only cant I, but I F’n made a mark/cut inside the sleeve. On the driveshaft side.
With a hand grinder, cut the cross.
Dont have one…will have to borrow. Although I have Dremel?
Lol, dremel made a dent, before getting too hot. Ok, any excuse for me, i will have a new angle grinder Wednesday.
What about sleeve? I need to file away nicks and burrs on outside of sleeve, but i assume i shouldn’t touch inside the sleeve?
