Im afraid if i force it, l’ll cut into driveshaft flange. I’ll wait for angle grinder.
The big error, trying to push cap back thru not perfectly lined up and cutting nick in sleeve. That’s what im worried about 
Greg…
These U-joint caps are spinning you know…
Just trim the edge with whatever you’ve got, even a nail file will do (longest version). Then, turn it for clearance…
Don’t worry about nicks in driveshaft’s bores - these are only for press fit and perpendicularity. The movement is taking place inside of u-joint…
Thanks, I feel better. Thought i had ruined driveshaft. Appreciate the help. 
And you meant “these U-joint caps are NOT spinning you know”, right?
Smoothin’ the edges of the bores, cleaning the circlip grooves will definitely help with assembly. Don’t be afraid of little scratches.
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No big deal Greg, Janusz’s trick will do the job.
Just file any extrusions on the driveshaft’s bores and you are good to go.
Did you watch the video I posted? It has some counterintuitive tricks that I found very useful, even though I had done this job many a times before.
Thanks guys…as you can see in my photo, my cap is still resting on the rim of the bore. That photo Janusz posted, it’s already cleared the bore.
I’m getting an angle grinder Wednesday (always wanted one), so I’ll go that approach to be safe. Do NOT want to mangle the rim of the bore.
I found a good video a few days ago, I’ll watch the one you posted for any extra ideas. Thanks!
Question, which clips to use? Spicer included three sets of clips…greyish, greenish, and copperish.
?
They are of various thickness. If are able to measure your existing u joint vs the new, you may be able to calculate which clip is most suitable, As long as all of the circlips will fit in the yoke groove without issue. The replacement spicer can bind with the incorrect circlip retainer. The circlips should be paired by color.
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Enjoy the opportunity to get a new toy. the angle grinder.
Consider the cups as bearing races. Press in place. The rollers move about the cross just a tad
to compensate for angularity.
The knicks on the shaft, not in the bores. A percusoor for cracks, Just mebbe, more likely than not, no not going to happen. If it makes you feel better, touch them up, ever so slighty.
Beware of the grinder, it will cut!!!
Carl
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Those cups need to be securely against the ends of the cross when installed. You don’t want the cross to be able to slide side to side within the cups. And, of course, you want them to be centered, not pushed to one side. So install the thinnest clips first, get them fully seated, see if there’s any noticeable play in the cross. If there is, move up to the next thicker clips. I suppose there’s some possibility that the clips in one direction need to be a different thickness than the clips in the other direction. Just make very sure the clips in any given axis are a matched pair.
And I suppose you know but I’ll state anyway: The flat side of the clip goes against the cup. The slightly rounded side, looks like just manufacturing effect, goes against the outboard side of the groove, which may in fact have a slight taper to it.
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And for the angle grinder get some 1mm cut off wheels and safety glasses if you don’t already have them.
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Thanks Kirby, no I did not know about the flat side of the clips. Thanks for all the info.
Robin, i have safety goggles, as well as gloves to use. What are 1mm cut off wheels? Is that a thicker or thinner grinding wheel? I’m just getting the general purpose 4 1/2" disc 'for metal", which are 0.045" thick (that’s about 1.14mm?)
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Basically the standard .045 cutting disc. The thing ones. I prefer the ones with the buldged shank hole vs the flat disks.
Yeh that would be correct, for the rest of the world that uses metric it’s close enough 
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Plus one on safety glasses. I neighbor of mine had a grinding disc explode while using an angle grinder. It lodged in his right knee. A couple of surgeries later and he still walks with a limp. Note the direction of the spinning disc and keep yourself protected.
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When I worked at P&WA, there was a club of sorts there called the Wise Owls. It was a group of machinists whose eyes had been saved by the use of safety glasses.
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Managed to cut and remove ujoint without any injuries. Had to use a bit of crow bar action, which I think made it worse.
Here is my error.
I wouldn’t trust it- find a driveline specialist to give an expert opinion. Need another shaft, or perhaps a specialist can replace the yoke.
Damn, thats what i get trying myself.
I will take it to a driveline specialist tomorrow. Hopefully they can weld on another yoke? Luckily this uses very standard GM style ujoint size.
Are you kidding? That ain’t nuthin’! Deburr it a little bit and reassemble.
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