Before you dismantle anything, use a long lever (tire iron or long fat screwdriver etc.) to pry the release fork with the gearbox in bottom gear. If you can turn the gearbox output flange by hand with little more effort than in neutral the clutch release is adequate. If there is still a slight amount of room for release lever travel, that’s your insurance.
Has your flywheel been resurfaced a lot, or do you have a non-standard flywheel? If it has, over the years, been turned/ground to the point that it is significantly thinner than it was originally, it can affect the geometry in the way you show.
Paul here’s a thread in the same vein as yours. There are pictures of two types of clutch release bearings on a link he posts. [xk] Re: 4.2L clutch release bearing
Here’s a further link with yet another photo of a release bearing. You’ll note it’s unusual thickness. I believe this was introduced late by Jaguar for use with hydrostatic slave cylinders. These were causing premature wear so Jaguar produced this extra thick bearing, and I’m sorry I don’t know the part number. You might want to use this type if you need to push the fork end back for more clearance A minor lecture on doing things correctly... pt 1
Thanks for your reply. Appreciated. now I am really concerned/confused as to what to do next. I contacted SNG today and asked about the thrust bearing. this was their reply
HD3306 “24mm from centre of locating pin hole to bottom of bearing”. HD3319 supersedes to C235752B " 30mm from centre of locating pin hole to bottom of bearing" . I don’t believe these are interchangeable, they are specific to the clutch kit.
the 30 mill is for the 9.5" clutch! I presume this is the one in the B&B kit!
To add a bit to the confusion: There are 2 different length rods from the slave cylinder to the fork. These are discussed in older threads.
I believe the long one is for the hydrostatic cylinder and the short one for the short cylinder.
Paul the issue is not complicated. You need a release bearing that will give you enough movement to fully release the disc. You need at least .600 inches of movement of the lever before it strikes the bell housing. I’d use Ray’s .750" to be on the safe side. The release bearings (RB)are all interchangable so long as there is no interference with the opening in the bell housing. Try this - push your current lever backwards toward the gear box until it won’t move further. This will mean the RB is flush on the release ring on the clutch. Measure the distance from the lever to the end of the hole in the bellhousing. Now pull the lever back to the point where it is .750 inches from the end of the hole. The difference between these two distances can be used to calculate how much thicker you need the RB to be. Suppose the difference is .250". Because the lever has a mechanical advantage of 1.6 to 1 divide .250 by 1.6 and that number is how much thicker you need it to be.
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