My current priority is too improve the fit of my doors. The driver
side isn’t bad, but the passengers need a bit of work. Both
protrude away from the body. I will remove the seals and attempt to
fit the doors.
Questions! Is the window frame in the door adjustable? Both doors
are slightly sagged. The space between the rear upright section of
the window frame and the upright chrome piece against the rear
window is already larger at the top. Lifting the door will only
increase this. Hence, is the window frame in the door adjustable?
Also, perhaps the upright chrome piece at the front of the rear
window can be adjusted!
I have obtained new door shut seals which seem to have a fair
amount of give to them. I suspect my doors are protruding away from
the body because of the seals that are now in the car. They are in
quite good shape so I suspect they are not the original, but have
been replaced with seals that are too hard or large. Hopefully, if
I can fit the doors well with the seals removed, the new ones will
not force the doors out again.
In reply to a message from Gary Reynolds sent Fri 10 Dec 2004:
HI Gary, there is a lot of adjustment in the window frames. for
hight there are shims that fit along the top inside edge of the
door where the philips head screws go. For in and out of the top of
the frame there are sloted holes in the mounting points at the very
bottom of the door.
Dan Myers–
The original message included these comments:
Questions! Is the window frame in the door adjustable? Both doors
–
trdanny
white lake, mi, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Gary Reynolds sent Fri 10 Dec 2004:
Gary,
I’ve never worked on a coupe or 2+2, but my impression is the
window frame is not adjustable. Your comment about the doors being
slightly ‘‘sagged’’ suggests worn hinges, which should be rebuilt, or
you’ll find yourself back in this same position shortly. Hold the
door almost closed, just to the point where the latch makes no
contact, and wiggle the back of the door up and down. If it moves
more than a very small amount, your hinge pins are worn, and
should be replaced. Once they start to wear, they seem to get much
worse very quickly, so adjustments won’t last long.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Fri 10 Dec 2004:
Yes you might have worn door hinge there is a littl slot on the top
of the door hinge, where you supposed to drible a few drops of oil
in every now and then. very few people does. you can get a rebult
hinge I think from welches in stubenville OH After fitting it, you
first want to adj the door without the window frame so it fits
perfect, and then fit the window frame. its adjustable up down in
and out forward and back. cheers Pajtas–
The original message included these comments:
In reply to a message from Gary Reynolds sent Fri 10 Dec 2004:
I suppose I will discover this when I take my doors apart but for
now maybe someone can satisfy my curiosity.
After a considerable amount of repair to my sills and floors I am
quite happy with my panel alignment. The doors line up nicely with
the front cowl and rear fender. And my door gaps are nicely
parallel at the front and rear. However, the door gap is much
wider at the front (around 5 to 6 mm) than it is at the rear
(around 1 to 2 mm).
Is it possible to adjust the doors in the fore and aft direction?
I expected to find shims for this purpose between the front hinge
bracket and the bulkhead it attaches to but there were none.
I now suspect that if there is a fore and aft adjustment it will be
where the hinge attaches to the door. Is that the case?
In reply to a message from Glen Jarboe sent Mon 12 Mar 2007:
Glen, To adjust the position of the door fore and aft you move the
door in relation to the hinge as it fits on the door.So you need to
loosen the four door bolts and reset the door position.This is
easier said than done, because access to these door located bolts
is less than ideal!!I suppose you could put some shims between the
A post and the hinge, but I am not aware that this is the common
approach?As you have found the fitting of the door to its optimal
position requires considerable patience, and maybe a couple of work
sesions.Good Luck–
The original message included these comments:
After a considerable amount of repair to my sills and floors I am
quite happy with my panel alignment. The doors line up nicely with
the front cowl and rear fender. And my door gaps are nicely
parallel at the front and rear. However, the door gap is much
wider at the front (around 5 to 6 mm) than it is at the rear
(around 1 to 2 mm).
Is it possible to adjust the doors in the fore and aft direction?
Glen - 69 OTS. Restoration documented at www.myjagsite.com
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5-Speed, 1970 SII OTS
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Be careful the door will adjust in 6 directions. Up–down, right-left, in-out, and clockwise/counterclockwise. (is that 6?) You will mess up one direction while adjusting another, but it is all part of the learning process. Just be careful not to slam it, or close fast as you may scrape the paint along the front edge of the door on the fender (wing?)
LLoyd–
My driveway is long enough that you can appreciate the conflict between the desire for privacy and the terror of being completely lost .
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: “Glen Jarboe” gjarboe1@airmail.net
Series II Roadster Restoration
I suppose I will discover this when I take my doors apart but for
now maybe someone can satisfy my curiosity.
After a considerable amount of repair to my sills and floors I am
quite happy with my panel alignment. The doors line up nicely with
the front cowl and rear fender. And my door gaps are nicely
parallel at the front and rear. However, the door gap is much
wider at the front (around 5 to 6 mm) than it is at the rear
(around 1 to 2 mm).
Is it possible to adjust the doors in the fore and aft direction?
I expected to find shims for this purpose between the front hinge
bracket and the bulkhead it attaches to but there were none.
I now suspect that if there is a fore and aft adjustment it will be
where the hinge attaches to the door. Is that the case?
In reply to a message from Glen Jarboe sent Mon 12 Mar 2007:
I adjusted mine by loosing three out of the four bolts and using
the fourth as a pivot. With a little thought you can work the door
into proper position bit by bit. The bolts have shallow heads.
Where you can use a socket, buy a cheap 6 point socket for more
grip, and then grind off the flare for even a better grip. You can
also buy open end wrenches that have a swiveling socket on the
other end. You can grind those way down to get into tight places.
Good luck.–
WCJ 67 E-type S1 FHC
Corvallis OR, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from WCJ sent Mon 12 Mar 2007:
Thanks to all for the advice. I now see that the adjustment should
be no problem. My doors and the body are currently bare steel. So
I will do the adjustments prior to final painting.–
Glen - 69 OTS. Restoration documented at www.myjagsite.com
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Glen Jarboe sent Tue 13 Mar 2007:
Glen, I took a peek at your website…it looks as if you have( or
had!) some major challenges in your project.However, it seems as if
you have your tub im a similar state as mine . I’ve got all the tub
panels in postion and now I need to do a little fettling on the
doors to get that final fit, and I am contemplating welding wire
onto the door edges in a few places to get the final true gaps, and
i expect to finish this up with a skim of body fibre glass filler
to finish the cosmetics.I considered leading but decided against
it, as I have never done it, and teaching myself to weld was
enough!!Good luck on the doors. Do you intend to update your
website? Regards–
The original message included these comments:
Thanks to all for the advice. I now see that the adjustment should
be no problem. My doors and the body are currently bare steel. So
I will do the adjustments prior to final painting.
Glen - 69 OTS. Restoration documented at www.myjagsite.com
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5-Speed, 1970 SII OTS
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
I have been struggling to get my doors properly adjusted. And I
have been fairly successful. But the adjustment does not hold.
In each hinge, there are four beveled holes through which beveled
screws go into the backing plate in the door. When loosened, it is
possible to move the door fore and aft and up and down. When I get
the door properly adjusted, I am tightening these beveled screws as
much as seems reasonable.
However, I believe that, later, the surface of the hinge is
slipping against the surface of the door, and the adjustment is
lost. I have even tried glueing two pieces of sandpaper together
and slipping them under the hinge to try to provide more ‘‘bite’’
against the door once the beveled screws are tightened.
I notice that my hinge also has two additional threaded holes near
the middle of the hinge surface (in the same plane as the beveled
screw). When taking the hinges off, I recall that that I removed
screws from these holes - and I wondered ‘‘How is door adjustment
via the four beveled screws possible with the two straight-through
screws in place?’’. For a variety of reasons (panel replacement,
door repairs, etc), these threaded holes no longer line up with the
holes in the sheet metal of the doors (they are just a millimeter
or two off).
I believe that these two extra holes may have originally been
drilled after the fact (or even by the PO). In other words, once
the door adjustment is complete these holes were added in order to
anchor the hinge to the door. Since they go straight through both
the hinge and the door, they would restrict any further slippage
between the hinge and the door.
I just thought I would run this by the group before I drill and tap
two new holes to hold my door adjustment in place.–
Glen - 69 OTS. Restoration documented at www.myjagsite.com
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
Haven’t heard of anything so strange since grandpa said, “The cows chased officer O’Malley clear down to the county road”. Let us know what it is, when you find out.
LLoyd–
Insofar as mathematics applies to
reality it is not certain, and
so far as mathematics is certain
it does not apply to reality.
Einstein
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: “Glen Jarboe” gjarboe1@airmail.net
I have been struggling to get my doors properly adjusted. And I
have been fairly successful. But the adjustment does not hold.
In each hinge, there are four beveled holes through which beveled
screws go into the backing …
In reply to a message from Glen Jarboe sent Tue 19 Aug 2008:
Glen,
‘‘I am tightening these beveled screws as much as seems
reasonable’’ - There’s your problem! Who said it should
be ‘‘reasonable’’? Ya gotta get’em tighter. If the bolts aren’t
holding, there’s no way in hell two little screws are going to.
All the door mounting and latching hardware has to be seriously
tight to keep things in place. Those little screws are just an
alignment aid to help get the door back in the correct location if
you ever have to take it off. They won’t do squat to keep the door
in place if the bolts are not tight enough.–
Ray Livingston - '64 OTS Santa Cruz, CA
Santa Cruz, CA, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Ray Livingston sent Wed 20 Aug 2008:
Just searched the archives for ‘‘door adjustment extra screws.’’
(once in while, I find the secret words). I found a message from
Richard Liggett that said those two screws (actually 1/4’’) were put
there by the factory. I believe they were not drilled until the
factory door adjustment was complete.
I can see where they would be a definite aid to future
installation/alignment. Of course, since I have made modification
(new cowl panels, modification to door edges, new sheet metal in
the area of the B-post etc.), they are of little use to me - except
to tell me where the hinges USED TO BE. If I now use those holes I
will definitely knock some paint off around my door edges.
I do believe they will also keep the door adjustment in place.
Once those two screws are in (through the hinge AND the door) they
would have to be sheared off by the face of the door hinge against
the steel plate of the door in order for the door to shift on the
four beveled screws. I plan tap new 1/4’’ UNF threads in the hinges
(maybe I should use UNC in the aluminum hinge).
Ray, my beveled screws (1/4’’) are definitely tight (they have Allen
heads instead of the usual Phillips type - and I really cranked on
them with a quarter inch drive). I think my problem is that the
inside of the doors and inside of the hinges are painted with
glossy urethane, whereas, before their faces were rust and corroded
aluminum. And, of course, before, the hinges had to two extra
screws.
In reply to a message from Glen Jarboe sent Tue 19 Aug 2008:
Glen, In essence you are exactly on the right track.I read
somewhere( don’t recall where ) that when you dismantle the
car you should weld up those central holes in the door face,
because the new position WILL be different .Once you have
the refitted door in place then redrill the central holes,
and fit screws to hold. This then marks your new position
unambiguously. Strangely in my case the refitted door lines
up exactly with the old holes. It turns out that this is the
ONLY thing thats the same as before!!!–
The original message included these comments:
I notice that my hinge also has two additional threaded holes near
the middle of the hinge surface (in the same plane as the beveled
screw). When taking the hinges off, I recall that that I removed
screws from these holes - and I wondered ''How is door adjustment
via the four beveled screws possible with the two straight-through
door repairs, etc), these threaded holes no longer line up with the
holes in the sheet metal of the doors (they are just a millimeter
or two off).
I believe that these two extra holes may have originally been
drilled after the fact (or even by the PO). In other words, once
the door adjustment is complete these holes were added in order to
–
John M Holmes 1973 E Type SIII Supra 5-Speed, 1970 SII OTS
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from John M Holmes sent Wed 20 Aug 2008:
Thanks, John.
I don’t think I will weld up the holes. There is plenty of room in
the center of the hinge without running into the backing plates.
So I will just drill through both layers. I can live with a few
extra holes.–
Glen - 69 OTS. Restoration documented at www.myjagsite.com
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
After installing Ray’s nifty new striker posts, I had to
readjust the door on my 66 OTS. The bolts on the bulkhead
obviously control in/out. On the door there are 4 bolts on
a trapezoidal plate and there were two holes. The book says
these are drive screws. Mine we missing. What is the
purpose of the drive screws? I have to move the lower rear
part of the door in and the upper front out and back.
Thanks–
Gary Herzberg, 63 3.8 FHC 66 Series 1 OTS, 98 xk8
Montana, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from Gary Herzberg sent Tue 16 Dec 2008:
Gary
I believe the drive screws were fitted at the factory once
the doors were correctly aligned to ‘lock’ the adjustment in
place. It meant if ever the doors were removed they could be
re-hung with the minimum of fuss using the drive screws as
locator’s.
David–
David Jones, S1 OTS
Nottingham, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
My passenger side door is out of alignment at the top only.
The front top of the door is ‘‘in’’ ~7mm. The rear top of the
door is out ~7mm. It seems that if I could just move the
top of the door ‘‘clockwise’’ on its hinge, that would do
it… Bottom of door is aligned good.
Is there a way to adjust this without messing up the rest of
the doors alignment?
Thank you,
Bob–
'70 E S2 OTS
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
In reply to a message from bobsxke sent Thu 14 Jun 2012:
Hi Bob,
Not certain this will apply to your S2 OTS, but check inside
your door (panel off) to see if there are window track
adjusters at the bottom of each window track mount. Perhaps
what you are looking for are 7/16’’ nuts to move in and out to
adjust the window tracks (including the front post). You may
see some screws at the ends of the door to loosen to help make
the adjustments.
Some times the tracks are pushed out of adjustment by the
window seals, especially at the rear track.
Phil–
The original message included these comments:
Hi Guys,
My passenger side door is out of alignment at the top only.
The front top of the door is ‘‘in’’ ~7mm. The rear top of the
door is out ~7mm. It seems that if I could just move the
top of the door ‘‘clockwise’’ on its hinge, that would do
it… Bottom of door is aligned good.
Is there a way to adjust this without messing up the rest of
the doors alignment?
'70 E S2 OTS
–
Phil Schaefer, Liberty, Missouri S3 2+2
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–