I have a 70 OTS with the Weber conversion courtesy of PO. The linkage to the
carbs is direct from the firewall side to the throttle linkage rod to the
carbs. Works great except on a tight corner the slight leaning of the engine
causes the engine speed to increase due to pressure on the throttle linkage!
Can someone with a similar set-up either describe their linkage arrangement
or preferably send me an E-mail photo showing the linkage?
Thanks
Chuck (HOTCAT)
Mine does the same, real scary at first, tires smoking and squealing ,rear
end coming around on my way to work in front of
all my neighbors and kids waiting for the school bus, then the
strain on my seat ratchet let go and I dropped backwards, I felt like a
fool, three more episodes before I got home, I called Sam
at Classic Jaguar and he said to leave some slack in the linkage,
worked for me but it rattles at idle, I wrote to Weber/Redline about a cable
setup but no response yet, I can also feel any engine vibration directly at
my foot which on long trips would be
annoying, and I want to make some sort of rain diverter so the
filters don’t get wet in the rain, Manuel=^…^=
I missed the start of this thread, but is it connected
with an automatic increase in revs when turning left
hand corners, with cars fitted with Webers? If so,
I’ve had the same thing. I thought the engine
mountings had come loose etc.
Les.— manuel barje manuelhair@cybrtyme.com wrote:
Mine does the same, real scary at first, tires
smoking and squealing ,rear
end coming around on my way to work in front of
all my neighbors and kids waiting for the school
bus, then the
strain on my seat ratchet let go and I dropped
backwards, I felt like a
fool, three more episodes before I got home, I
called Sam
at Classic Jaguar and he said to leave some slack in
the linkage,
worked for me but it rattles at idle, I wrote to
Weber/Redline about a cable
setup but no response yet, I can also feel any
engine vibration directly at
my foot which on long trips would be
annoying, and I want to make some sort of rain
diverter so the
filters don’t get wet in the rain, Manuel=^…^=
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I am also very curious about a cable setup for throttle linkage on an
e-type. I really don’t like the stock linkage.
Does anyone know of a supplier??
Thanks,
Paul Ward
69FHC— manuel barje manuelhair@cybrtyme.com wrote:
snip…<I wrote to Weber/Redline about a cable setup >
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In reply to a message from Paul Ward sent Wed 28 Aug 2002:
As I’m not familiar with the exact set-up of webers on an E - I
don’t know whether my suggestion is relevant - but here goes
anyway.
I have a RHD car with triple SUs and before I changed my engine
mounts, on start-up and maybe at other times, the fuel pipe to
the rear carb would come into contact with the alloy pedal box
casting on the bulkhead. I thought the clearance was pretty
tight and I found out that this problem is not uncommon on RHD
e’s.
So when I fitted new engine mounts, I took one of the old engine
mounts, hacksawed the rubber and the ‘cup’ portion of the metal
away which in effect left me with a 1/8’’ spacer which I put back
under the new mount on the carb side of the engine only - thus
giving me an extra 1/8’’ clearance on that side. So - if the
linkages for the webers are at the bottom and fouling on
something - this may give you that extra bit of clearance.
An alternative is rob beere racing makes manifolds and linkages
for webers (http://www.rob-beere-racing.co.uk/) - but it may not
be too convenient for you as they’re in the UK and whilst their
stuff is good quality - it’s not cheap.
Dean–
Dean F 69ots
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In reply to a message from Paul Ward sent Wed 28 Aug
2002:As I’m not familiar with the exact set-up of webers
on an E -
On my car, equipped with 45DCOE’s, until recently I
had the “standard” approx 1/4" dia rod running across
the manifold, with linkage down to each carb. The rod
was supported by three bearings which screwed into the
manifold. The left end of this rod was coupled to the
remnants of the old linkage that ran across the
bulkhead to the foot peal linkage.
Lousy setup, way too light, flexed way too much
allowing the rear carb to open before the others. In
addition, I had the old problem of increased revs when
accelerating away from a standstill, but only when
turning left.
I scrapped that setup and bought the CJ Weber linkage.
This is much much nicer with a heavier (1/2" or 3/4"
maybe) steel rod supported in real fully floating
bearings. This is coupled to beautifully engineerd
linkage to each carb. FAR superior to the old
version.
However, this system still has the problem of the rod
flexing during first depression of the accelerator,
because it still operates from the old linkage across
the bulkhead.
I intend to work out a cable system that operates from
the swivel/turnbuckle on the bulkhead, and connects to
the bearing rod, at around the middle of its length
close to numbr three cylinder. Hopefully the cable
will come up from underneath and not have to go across
the engine.
I do know of Weber agnets inthe UK that have ready
made cable hookups for these carbs, but, they’r not
cheap and I’m not sure how wel they’d retrofit to the
E.
If anyone has any thoughts about how best to go about
this litle engineering project, I’d be happy to share
ideas.
Les.— Dean F dean.fearnsides@btinternet.com wrote:
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I have the CJ set-up,beautiful but it needs improving, I think the cable
idea is the best solution, no engine vibration, unaffected
by engine movement, and could be attached so as to remove flex in the
shaft,
in the meantime I think I might make a support bracket with another bearing
to bolt off of the right side rear cam plate,
please post any progress you make, I have sent a message to
Weber/Redline because they have cable operated rigs for other cars,but still
no response, this should not be an expensive project, Manuel
Manuel, tried the plate off the cam mounting bolts
idea. It does remove the flex, but because the end
result is a more rigid connection from engine to body,
you get a lot more vibration and I found this
particular cure worse than the illness. I removed it
and am running with the base setup while I develop the
new rig.
Let me know if you have any luck/ideas. I’ll certainly
keep the list up to date with anything I work out.
Anyone out there know a supplier of cables? Maybe a
website I could go to to see the various options?
Les.— manuel barje manuelhair@cybrtyme.com wrote:
in the meantime I think I might make a support
bracket with another bearing
to bolt off of the right side rear cam plate,
please post any progress you make, I have sent a
message to
Weber/Redline because they have cable operated rigs
for other cars,but still
no response, this should not be an expensive
project, Manuel
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If the cat is accelerating with the weber linkage, I would assume that
that is due to rotation of the engine in relation to the body and firewall.
Wouldn’t it be easier to put heavy duty engine mounts in to stop the
rotation?
Dave Collins
70FHCMine stopped accelerating on it’s own once I left some freeplay in the
linkage which was what CJ suggested,solid mounts would not help the flex of
the throttle shaft which causes the rear carb to open before the others, or
the vibration transmitted through the pedal, I’ve been looking in motorcycle
shops at cables,
Manuel
Yes, leaving freeplay does help with the “auto
acceleration” However, it’s really just a bodge up,
not the real cure. Cable is the only way I think.
Les.— manuel barje manuelhair@cybrtyme.com wrote:
Mine stopped accelerating on it’s own once I left
some freeplay in the
linkage which was what CJ suggested,solid mounts
would not help the flex of
the throttle shaft which causes the rear carb to
open before the others, or
the vibration transmitted through the pedal, I’ve
been looking in motorcycle
shops at cables,
Manuel
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On my 4.2 the sprung link between the throttle pedal and the
carburettor linkages keeps on dropping off on the pedal
side. Seems like (not sure?) its supposed to be sprung so
the linkage hole stays tight on the nipple…but mine is
loose. Looks like the spring is tired. I see that I can buy
a new one for…oh, a lot of our local pesos. I figure that
if I can get at the spring and replace it or stretch it out
a bit again and put it back the part will still be quite
good, thank you. Except that I have no idea how to open it
without damaging it as the hollow tube with the spring in it
seems crimped on. Guess I could tie it in place with a piece
of wire but that just seems so makeshift that it would
bother me no end. Any ideas folks?–
Clem (aka Roarin’Tom)
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Now here’s one I had not heard before. I can’t help you, but do let us know what you find out, it’s something we may all need to figure out eventually.
LLoyd–
Insofar as mathematics applies to
reality it is not certain, and
so far as mathematics is certain
it does not apply to reality.
Einstein
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: “Roarin’Tom” cdaniel@p-t-a.co.za
On my 4.2 the sprung link between the throttle pedal and the
carburettor linkages keeps on dropping off on the pedal
side. Seems like (not …
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In reply to a message from soothsayer1@comcast.net sent Wed 22 Oct 2008:
Tom - I believe that the end of the rod has a screw-in
insert, that you can back out with a flat blade and the ball
and spring then will come out the end. Then you can find a
fresh spring at a hardware store. At least this is how I
recall it, but I’m not looking at the car right now and we
might be talking about different parts of the linkage.–
Kevin Kemper
Auburn, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Kevin Kemper sent Wed 22 Oct 2008:
Hi Kevin, the top end definitley has the construction you
reference but the bottom end I think is different - no screw in.–
The original message included these comments:
Tom - I believe that the end of the rod has a screw-in
insert, that you can back out with a flat blade and the ball
and spring then will come out the end. Then you can find a
fresh spring at a hardware store. At least this is how I
recall it, but I’m not looking at the car right now and we
might be talking about different parts of the linkage.
–
Clem (aka Roarin’Tom)
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In reply to a message from Kevin Kemper sent Wed 22 Oct 2008:
Tom,
Also, at the end of the spring there is a little metal piece that
sits inside the spring, with a recessed top to hold the ball joint
in place. It looks like a short solid rivet with a recessed head.
The spring itself is not enough to hold the ball joint.
I hope that description makes sense.
I think John Farrell sells the linkage pieces at a reasonable
price - you could check with him.–
The original message included these comments:
Tom - I believe that the end of the rod has a screw-in
insert, that you can back out with a flat blade and the ball
and spring then will come out the end. Then you can find a
fresh spring at a hardware store. At least this is how I
recall it, but I’m not looking at the car right now and we
might be talking about different parts of the linkage.
Kevin Kemper
–
David - '61 & '69 OTS, '37 SS Saloon El Dorado Hills, CA
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In reply to a message from Roarin’Tom sent Wed 22 Oct 2008:
Take a look it again. Mine has screws on both ends. I
think it would be pretty hard for them to have assembled it
without that. Maybe the slotted end is gummed up with dirt
or paint or something. In fact the screw might just be
loose and it’s not putting enough tension on the spring.
Otherwise the nipple that it pops onto might be worn. In
any event if you can’t fix it, you can get brand new ones
from John Farrell in NYC.–
The original message included these comments:
Hi Kevin, the top end definitley has the construction you
reference but the bottom end I think is different - no screw in.
–
Eric MaLossi 64 3.8 OTS
Austin,TX, United States
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In reply to a message from David Shield sent Wed 22 Oct 2008:
Hi Kevin, I follow you perfectly. I now see the part in
John’s catalogue at $48 which I will acquire if in the end I
cannot repair the thing.–
The original message included these comments:
Also, at the end of the spring there is a little metal piece that
sits inside the spring, with a recessed top to hold the ball joint
in place. It looks like a short solid rivet with a recessed head.
The spring itself is not enough to hold the ball joint.
I hope that description makes sense.
I think John Farrell sells the linkage pieces at a reasonable
price - you could check with him.
–
Clem (aka Roarin’Tom)
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You may remember that I noted that the spring on my first vertical throttle linkage has collapsed. Folks asked me to advise if I came up with a solution.
The answer is to cross drill the whole thing at the right point and to then put a split pin in it upon fitting. Works beautifully.
Except that I feel like an idiot. While adjusting the throttle linkages I was stupid enough to drop the flat headed screw that goes in on top of the nipple. This in a friend’s paved brick driveway (we are just finishing renovations at our own house so I do not have a workshop right now but am really looking forward to having mine back). After four hours of searching we finally admitted defeat. So now it looks like I will have to buy the linkage anyway. 
Moral of the story: only remove fiddly droppable bits in a garage with a flat, light coloured, clutter free floor so they can’t escape!–
Clem (aka Roarin’Tom)
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In reply to a message from Roarin’Tom sent Sat 8 Nov 2008:
Hi Clem
How about a magnet. My hardware store has 4’’ diameter magnets on a
long handle to find dropped hardware.
Good luck
Curt–
Curt Johnson 67 E-type S1 FHC, 57 TBird, 53 MG TD
Corvallis OR, United States
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