Greetings All,
Looking for suggestions on what people are using and where they are buying engine mounts for my SS1?
Vacation starts for a week plus this Monday. If nothing shows here, off tho NAPA and 12 linear feet of interchange books with my pictures of SSI’s and engine mounts along with some rudimentary dimensions from my car.
Any help, will no doubt save time.
Do you know a 1936 / 7 SS100 owner?
Same engine mounts.
Maybe McMaster-Car might have something that could work.
Greetings Peter,
The car is a '34, are the mounts the same, front and back? Different company made the frames, along with Flathead versus OHV blocks.
Hope this helps, at least for the rear mount. This engine is for the chassis we discussed awhile back correct ?
Does the chassis have the two mounting lugs still fitted? Should be at 19 1/2” centers. For the front mount what are the hole centers of the holes in the dropped part of the chassis just aft of where the rad sits?
The plate mount points to the block are the same sidevalve and OHV.
Do you need the big end plates for the block? I have a pair from a Mark V available if they could be modified to use.
The rubber insert in Peter’s picture looks to me like those found in the ends of leaf springs, so perhaps a trailer shop would have something.
There are four-bolt flanges to be found in McMaster-Carr; try 6008K26 and there are other sizes on that page. Click on Product Detail and you get a CAD drawing of the part.
Certainly good if indeed you’ve found the proper ones: I garontee, in a pinch, I’d find something that’d work, at McM…
I rebuilt a 1923 Kelly-Springfield fire truck engine, and there was NOWHERE in the Alpha quadrant where one could find new engine mounts.
About 3 hours in their catalog (this was 1979) I found 4 perfectly-suited mounts.
Fast forward a few years ago: I went to visit “Kelly,” at his owner’s garage…and those mounts were still holding up the 3200-pound engine.
Yes Rob spring eye bushes do the job. The originals are ! !/8" OD with a 1/2" hole, but the OD could
be slightly larger with flanges to suit. I think Its Bob ( Lovell ) ideally needs a 2 1/2 rear plate, the
one shown is 3 1/2, different starter position otherwise the same.
Perhaps a bit more than 3 hours to find a mid thirties rear mounting plate to fit a Standard sidevalve.@
McMaster, more luck @ McDonalds methinks. 
Greetings All and Ed,
I’m home for vacation for the next week. Will check a few things.
I WAS missing one of the rear engine mount brackets. I remade that, mirrored the one I did have. Will check your measurement with what I have.
THANKS!
A few of years ago I was crossing the ocean on an 85’ Catamaran and one of the generator mounts crapped the bed. Being 1500 miles from land I had to think a bit out side the box. I did a little research and found that most mounts for engines and generators have a Durometer hardness rating of 45-65. I searched thru what was available on the yacht and found that black 3M 5200 had a Durometer rating of 60, so I used the old plate with bolts and built a box around it and squeezed in the proper height of the 5200. Had to wait three days for it to cure but it’s still on the generator today after about 4000 hours. Sometimes you just have to use what’s around!
Greetings All/Ed,
Those look look like urethane bushed with steel or aluminum sleeves captured with flanges on each side?
Make those?
The front hole centers are whatever they need to be. Either the installation of the Dodge Flathead 6 or the DeSoto V8 neccesitated the notching of the front lower pan where the mounts no doubt resided allowed new oil pan to fit.
Good news is a proper piece was made some time ago and fits perfectly. The shape of what exactly was missing means it was made somewhat larger on the possibility ithat I’d rather trim than add. It has yet to be welded to the frame.
My plan was to fit the block with the rear and front plates and mark where those mounts are supposed to go and drill appropriately.
The bushes are spring eye , the only ones of the size required, 1 1/8 OD with a 1/2" hole, I could find at the time of construction are fitted to the LDV make 3 1/2 ton light truck. They are steel, rubber, steel.
to long so I cut them down to the size required… Yes two flanges each side, riveted to the plate.
I can only give a approximation of the front mount , I will ask the owner of a SS1 for the spacing of the holes at front of chassis. What is your intention as to body, SS 90 ? Do I remember a body for
your chassis, or a photo as was ?
Greetings All/Ec,
Going as it I found it based on the pictures I had from the owner’s son.
No SS90 body.
Truncated SS1, I recall a shot showing the petrol tank turned 90 degrees… Nicely proportioned,
just the sharp angle twixt rear body and door not quite there. Certainly more spacious in the cockpit
than a 90 / 100. This wheelbase with OHV engine and rod brakes I might have considered
30 yrs ago, perhaps with SS90 style rear end
And yes I fabricated the rear mount plate and flanges.
Greetings All and Peter J,
Not sure how “spacious” it is…it is an SS1 frame, but it is a shortened wheelbase, 100" .
I can reach back and touch the differential.
The fuel tank in other pictures as you mentioned. The tank was an SS1 mounted vertically. But while the filler is foreign to me, the tank was not built as a horizontal unit and flipped. That would have meant either the previous locations of the drain or the sending unit would have been present in the picture along with original filler placement, none of which appear or appear to be patched or filled.
Dug up this photo showing a SS! / SS90 gearbox . I`ve seen a similar type of top cover on other makes using a Moss box, but mostly on the smaller version Moss.
Checked the photo showing the Standard block on a trolley, but the front mount plate not visible.
Hello Lovell
I don’t know if these drawings of the front engine mts. help, they supposedly came from an original 2.5 litre SS100 when a friend was building a replica SS100, cannot vouch for their accuracy.
Regards Peter
Photo shows the pins that attach to the lugs on the front mount plate, hopefully this and Peter (Bisket)s
diagram helps. Hole centers are 14" thereabouts.
Interesting: if one could can salvage the metal “tuning fork” bit, it looks relatively doable to just find new rubber donuts.
