A leveler will definitely work. My engine came out the top with a cheapo Harbor Freight adjustable beam. It was just as precarious looking the illustration in the manual. The only benefit I see to it is not having to unbolt the intake or exhaust. The reaction plate still has to come off. So mine went back in from the bottom, and when it comes out in a few weeks for a new clutch/rear main it will go out and in from the bottom.
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You probably already know and are doing this, but be sure to double check for hoses, wires, ground straps and the like that are connected to the engine and transmission. Applies to either removal method.
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Andy the chain blocks run on a rail. Each block ras its own carriage, so for engine removal
these are coupled and decoupled for body / chassis lift. There is no need to remove
the tunnel or gearbox linkage. When the engine is hanging free I pull it forward lslightly,
this gives more room to detach the prop. As the engine inclines I detach the reverse
wires and speedo cable.
Peter B.
Philip , better control with two blocks. I use a 1 1/2 ton block at the rear, 1 ton at front
I find 1/2 ton blocks to" jerky" in operation. When installing MK1 / 2 engines this control
enables precise placement of the stabiliser link gearstick etc.
When I see pro resto shops ,without a dedicated area and system for removing drivetrains ,pulling engines with a crane, and a jack under the gearbox, my thought is –
no stars awarded here.
Peter B
Yed Geo I had a hell of a job to find a photo that I was able to Photoshop into my
workshop. You are correct, the E is not mine althuogh I do not see the relevance
of ownership re removing drivetrains !!
How about this one taken in 1968, no Photoshoping then Sir
BTW the chainblocks wrere hung on a air / sea rescue helicopter,
it was a hot day but the downdraught from the rotors kept me, as I allways am,
very kool !!
As allways keeping it light.
Peter B
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Removed and replaced mine from the bottom using just one HF 1.5 ton lift. Dead easy.
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Engine removed last weekend and I just finished removing the gearbox. Have spent some time degreasing this week as it was caked on.
Plan to head down to Habor Freight tomorrow and pick up a 1000lb engine stand. I am assuming that can be used with a Jaguar engine.
Let me know if not and any recommendations, tips and tricks to get it mounted on the stand.
Jay
This was my 3.4 from my ‘S’ just need a big bar to turn it over, and make sure you grease the pivot shaft!
It’s on now Jay. Full on rampant mission creep… enjoy!!
The specification say OK, but that great lump of an engine worried me, so I left a strap on the engine lift about the engine while it was on the stand.
Get the larger 2000 lb engine stand! I did and it still flexed quite a bit, this is a long and heavy engine. It did work however.
I just picked up the HF 2k one yesterday. I notice you have it bolted to the block extension brackets. Wasn’t it massively top heavy that way? Was it not possible to mount the block higher with all bolts going in the casting so the center of gravity would be closer to the bearing?
19 yrs ago I was a lot poorer and opted for the 1k stand. Never again, as that thing scared me silly. I would strap it up with the crane to try and take some weight off the stand.
I used the 1,000 lb. capacity stand with my engine when I had the 2+2. As Robin says get a big bar to turn the engine. I keep wondering if it’s possible to adapt a pair of used wheel bearings to make the thing easier to rotate the engine. I did clean up that pivot point and bushed it with a brass insert. That helps but it is still hard to turn.
I tried to mount it without using the extension brackets but even with spacers I couldn’t get everything to line up. I think others have successfully done it, but I couldn’t get it with the HF 2K stand. The CG was off but I could still (very carefully) rotate it even with the head attached. Here is where I had the upper bolts.
These engines always look so MASSIVE compared to the car.
@peterjb what color is your car supposed to be?
I used the HB also, but modified two of the brackets by drilling new holes as indicated be the green arrow.
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Hello Steve.
No longer my car , I sold it in 1984, in my custody the colour was BRG/ Cream.
679282 was one of a small number , 3 / 4?, that were factory two tone.
This is the car.
Peter B
I purchased the HF 1 ton (2000lb) engine stand. I am trying to work out the best way to mount the engine on the stand with the long/short engine stand brackets. What is the best orientation to have these engine stand brackets when trying to attach. I am trying to line up to bolt to the two engine stabilizer bolt hole’s and the two lowest bolts on the bell housing (not the bracket).
Thanks
Jay
Line up such that the pivot point of the stand is roughly equal to the core plate/plug of the block.
Any way to jigger around the arms will work, just make sure the bolts in the block are full-thread depth.
Funny you should mention that. I made a post with the method last week. Don’t use the side brackets. They’re attached with 5/16 bolts instead of 3/8, plus it will result in an inconvenient center of gravity. You’ll need a longer bolt for the top one that uses the bracket as a spacer instead of and arm. Use very heavy duty warshers.
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